Danish Oil simpler application ?

[RedMist]

Hi all,

Newbie woodworker here ! Might be an odd question but when it comes to applying Danish Oil on a hardwood piece that's fairly small eg 20cm by 20cm, 1cm thick, instead of multiple applications of Danish Oil, why couldn't you just (or can you) pour the oil into a large flat container (like an underbed storage box) and then set the wood in it.

Basically, I'm suggesting a Danish bath. Make sure there's enough oil to cover it and leave for 30 mins say? That should surely saturate the piece with Danish oil. You certainly couldn't miss any bits!

Just thinking out loud. Would this work? Not practical in all applications obviously, but if you wanted to oil a piece with minimum fuss this would do the job wouldn't it?

 

[sunnybob]

Costly.
Youre bound to contaminate the oil with something, even if its only dust from the air. And then if it all dries out too soon youve wasted a whole tin on one piece.

Its isnt hard or time consuming to coat a piece of wood that small

 

[monkeybiter]

it's not about the oil soaking into all of the timber, it's about coating and penetrating the surface then allowing to dry/cure. Once done more applications can be made to suit.
If surplus DO is left on the piece much more than 10 mins it will become gummy and give a very poor result that will need removing. Once applied any excess should be wiped off after ~ 10 mins.
HTH

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Yes, you'd expose a lot of oil to the air then return it to the can. Not a good idea.

 

[ED65]

Basically, I'm suggesting a Danish bath.

You can actually do this with some finishes, it's not unheard of to soak some types of tool handles in linseed oil for example and you'll even read of this being done with straight varnish so there's no reason someone won't have tried this with Danish oil (which is usually a blend of varnish and oil).

That should surely saturate the piece with Danish oil.

Not so much, wood simply isn't that absorbent generally.

The idea of a long soak seems sound: more time allows the finish to penetrate deeper, right? But no, on long-grain surfaces soaking for a few days makes no more difference than brushing or wiping it on.

On end grain you can get much deeper penetration with some woods, but whether this is something you actually want in practice is an open question. Under normal circumstances in finishing you don't want this, and in fact you may take specific steps to limit penetration of finish into end grain, e.g. by sanding to a much higher grit, sizing with dilute glue or rubbing in epoxy.

You certainly couldn't miss any bits!

It's easy enough not to miss spots once you develop a good application routine. But assuming you do miss an area you can simply catch it with the next coat. And Danish oil is particularly forgiving in this regard, as are all penetrating finishes.

After the next coat you'd be hard pressed to find the missed spot, after two more coats you can be assured it'll be invisible.

 

[thetyreman]

better off with thin coats but more of them

 

[RedMist]

On end grain you can get much deeper penetration with some woods, but whether this is something you actually want in practice is an open question. Under normal circumstances in finishing you don't want this, and in fact you may take specific steps to limit penetration of finish into end grain, e.g. by sanding to a much higher grit, sizing with dilute glue or rubbing in epoxy.

Could anyone elaborate on this end grain comment? Why is this an issue?

 

[monkeybiter]

Could anyone elaborate on this end grain comment? Why is this an issue?

Because when you make something [not just turning] the surface/s of the item will not be all end grain or side grain, so without taking steps to standardise the penetration depth you will end up with a varied and possibly patchy finish, in terms of colouring.

 

[Tetsuaiga]

I'd find it a waste of a container and a waste of the oil. After 30 minutes large surface area exposed you'd find it curing then you either have to get rid of it or pour it back into the jar but partly cured.

I can see the logic in your idea but wiping on isn't really that big a deal. It's also true that thinner coats dry faster, i've had trouble with danish oil gumming up though I don't use it anymore. The best result I had were from applying it then waiting 10 minute then rubbing it off with a dry rag/tissue.

Give it a try though, its always good to test things for yourself.

You might also want to consider what you want from the finish. Are you looking for physical protection, sealing from moisture, the feel, or just for the appearance.

 

[bugbear]

Hi all,

Newbie woodworker here ! Might be an odd question but when it comes to applying Danish Oil on a hardwood piece that's fairly small eg 20cm by 20cm, 1cm thick, instead of multiple applications of Danish Oil, why couldn't you just (or can you) pour the oil into a large flat container (like an underbed storage box) and then set the wood in it.

Basically, I'm suggesting a Danish bath. Make sure there's enough oil to cover it and leave for 30 mins say? That should surely saturate the piece with Danish oil. You certainly couldn't miss any bits!

Just thinking out loud. Would this work? Not practical in all applications obviously, but if you wanted to oil a piece with minimum fuss this would do the job wouldn't it?

No, it wouldn't.

Danish oil dries/set/cures by exposure to air and ultra violet light. Oil deep in the wood would get neither, and a thick surface coat would also prevent good access.

Even wiped on coats can be too thick to cure properly, which is why you wipe off the excess.

Some other products which set "in body" can be (and are) applied by dipping.

BugBear

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Interestingly, I've just bough some. I would have bought "Bestwood" but I needed to make up a minimum order for free P&P with https://www.google.co.uk/webhp?sourceid ... s+direct&* so bought Rustins. A warning I'd not seen before was on a Barrettine ad - do NOT use a sanding sealer under this product. Now, I know there is no standard for Danish Oil but I would image if that were good advice for one, it would probably be good for any?

 

[ED65]

Danish oil dries/set/cures by exposure to air and ultra violet light.

In case it matters, UV just acts to (ever so slightly) speed up the process but it's not a requirement for resin hardening or oil curing. If necessary Danish oils will set in the dark.

A warning I'd not seen before was on a Barrettine ad - do NOT use a sanding sealer under this product. Now, I know there is no standard for Danish Oil but I would image if that were good advice for one, it would probably be good for any?

Yes as it's a penetrating finish you don't generally want to add anything that'll interfere with it soaking into the wood.

That shouldn't be taken as absolute advice though, it could still be helpful to lightly pre-seal woods that are prone to blotching to even up the penetration, especially with coloured versions of Danish oil.