Damp Workshop

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stock-100

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Hi,

New to this forum and have a question regarding damp. I'm considering setting up a workshop, but the location has a damp issue. To one side the space is half underground and there is some damp proofing there, but the wall is wet. The wall has been covered with some sort of black rubber compound, but this clearly hasn't worked. There is a strong smell of damp and parts of the floor have visible patches, although the floor is not wet, as the wall is. I would only be renting this space so spending time and money sorting this out isn't really an option.

Considering the level of damp should I just forget about it? I'm relatively new to woodworking and have a vague grasp of the relationship between wood and moisture, but I know enough to understand that a damp workshop might cause a lot of problems, especially if I am storing wood in it.

Is there a relatively cheap way of resolving the damp problem?

Thanks.
 
Dampness and woodworking don't really go hand in hand, neither for the timber or your tools.

As you are renting i would explain to the landlord your concerns and expectations highlighting the effect it will have on your workshop.

If he dismisses you off hand then let someone else worry about it and find a cozy dry spot elsewhere.
 
stock-100":t3owemig said:
Is there a relatively cheap way of resolving the damp problem?
No. Dealing with damp in anything partially or completely below surface level is difficult and expensive.

Find somewhere else or you'll waste time, money and materials.
 
The landlord is extremely helpful and prepared to help out.

I remember when I initially viewed the shop there was no wetness on the wall and the smell was much lighter. He said he'd had the door open for some time because of flooding; although I can't see how flooding would cause water to seep through the walls, much more a failed attempt at damp proofing.

It's a real shame. The space is very big and at a peppercorn rent. Maybe just too good to be true.

I haven't quite given up and planning now to rent a dehumidifier and install an extractor fan (maybe two). I'm also going to buy a hygrometer to measure the humidity and a moisture meter and see how some wood gets on in there that I'll put in. The cost of running them, even 24hrs a day, would still be worth it as the rent is so low.

Does this sound like it might work? Is there a target of humidity that would make the space usable? Like I said I have a vague idea on humidity relative to moisture content in wood, but some help would be appreciated. Even if just to say give it up and move on...
 
If the rent is genuinely low then it could be worth investing it a proper solution.

How does the thought of spending a few thousand up front strike you when compared to the low rent.
Energy costs of running dehumidifiers and heating is just pi88ing money away and far better spend on a solution.

MM
 
It sounds like this place has got a problem, making it so hard to let that the owner is willing to rent it out for peanuts rather than having it empty not earning anything. I particularly don't like the idea that it's subject to 'flooding' . . . to any level.

You and the Landlord should be thinking about how to keep the water/dampness outside not how to deal with it when it's found it's way inside. Maybe you can come to arrangement with him to sort the problem once and for all, have a definite agreement though in case he ups the rent on his new 'dry' space.
 
It may depend on the type of work you are doing. Some large joinery companies have humidifiers to increase humidity as timber is often too dry. If you are making furniture, especially with veneered mdf, Id be wary. If its damp in May it could be horrendous in December.

Black jacking the walls internally wont stop the damp coming through, an external solution is the only proper way. Of course you could fit a dpm over the whole wall then build a stud wall with a cavity which would stop the dampness getting in even though it will still be there behind but in a sense no different to a house cavity wall. You might need a plastic channel at the bottom and run the water off if it is so bad it pools.

Condensation could make tools rust, although wax polish reduces this a lot.

I started in a cow shed and the concrete block walls got soaking wet on the inside in driving rain. I kept my timber well away from that part.
 
As has been said any damp proofing solution needs to start outside where possible - anytime we seen someone on TV sealing a wall on the inside they are most likely in the basement of an attached building and thus cannot work externally.

The best start, if possible/practical/affordable, would be to put a 'French' drain against the wall, filling the trench with drainage stone to the top. If the landlord really wanted to splash out you could waterproof the external face of the wall while its exposed for the drain works. By the way you describe the effects of flooding this should remove at least 90% of your problem. However you may still need to consider a DPC on the wall and floor.
 
If the landlord is prepared to help, I'd start with persuading him/her to have a proper survey carried out, to determine the cause of the dampness; if it's not already known. You'd also get an expert opinion on what to do, and whether or not it is viable in the first place. Then you can decide if you want the hassle.
 
Benchwayze":3gr8zeva said:
If the landlord is prepared to help, I'd start with persuading him/her to have a proper survey carried out, to determine the cause of the dampness; if it's not already known. You'd also get an expert opinion on what to do, and whether or not it is viable in the first place. Then you can decide if you want the hassle.
That's a good suggestion. There are so many possible causes such as cracked downpipes and water pipes, drainage from adjacent buildings etc that could be damaging his long-term investment as well as your short term needs.
 
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