Confusion at Hegner

[Chippygeoff]

For a few days I have been having a problem with the top clamp on my Hegner saw. The blade gradually loses tension. It is the quick release clamp with the chrome knurled knob. I took it all apart as far as I could and cleaned it up and there was a slight improvment but it did not cure the problem. I then got my little Hegner spares box out and there were about 8 clamps in there but they were all bottom clamps, in other words none of them would accept the quick release knob. I rang Hegner and spoke to the girl in sales and i explained the difference in the clamps. Ah, she said. I know the ones you want, so I ordered 2. I then went back to the workshop and took both clamps out to see if I could do some juggling with the various bits bit no matter what I did it would not work as the clamps are so different.

Back on the phone to Hegner and this time spoke to Chris in the tech department and tried to explain to him what the problem was. He understaood what i was saying and gave me the part number for the top clamp. Back through to sales and spoke to the same girl again. I explained there were two different clamps, one for the top and one for the bottom. She said the one I wanted came with the chromed knurled knob. I explained that I already had the knob and just wanted the clamp. No can do she said. all quick release clamps come complete with the knob, you cannot buy just the clamp. So we cancelled my first order and at almost £23 I just orderd one. I really don't think this is fair and we should be able to buy just the clamp. At the end of the day they have us by the short and curlies.

To aleviate any confusion with the newer guys you can use the same standard clamp top and bottom but you can't have the knurled knob in these clamps.

 

[scrimper]

Did you try running a piece of fine emery paper inside the clamp where the blade fits? Sometimes it can get a bit waxy or greasy allowing the blade to slide down.

I agree with what you say about the quick clamp, at the price they charge for them you ought to be able to buy either just the clamp or the knurled knob/screw. If the quick clamp cost a fiver then it would not be unreasonable to have to buy it complete. But you only ever need one quick clamp unlike the bottom or normal clamp.

The Hegner stuff is good and quality made but sadly the price we pay is extortionate spares prices.

 

[Chippygeoff]

I agree with you John. Yes, I tried a piece of emery between the slot, I tried everything I know. I had no problem with the little silver disc insert on the knob, clean as a whistle now. The saw is only two years old, I had to replace the tension rod a couple of months ago and now the quick release clamp, with knob. Yes, the quality of the Hegner stuff is very good and they state are made from aircraft quality materials, except the tension rod of course. I know of three members who have recently replaced theirs. Mind you my saws do get through a lot of work, at least 8 hours a day 5 days a week.

When I was on the phone to Hegner I mentioned I was interested in a new saw, they were all ears then, but then I said they would have to lower the price if I were to buy another Hegner.

 

[gilljc]

Hi Geoff
have you tried fiddling with the little allen screw on your left as you face the saw? if you remember I was having the same problem with mine, and after a fair bit of fine adjusting with an allen key, have had no more problems

 

[martinka]

Hi Geoff
have you tried fiddling with the little allen screw on your left as you face the saw? if you remember I was having the same problem with mine, and after a fair bit of fine adjusting with an allen key, have had no more problems

I reckon you probably hit the nail on the head, Gill, I reset mine the other day.

Geoff, here's something for you to try. First, if you don't already own a set, beg, borrow or steal a set of feeler gauges. Remove the knob from the clamp, put a 25 thou (0.025"), or 0.6mm feeler gauge in the slot, screw the little allen screw in until you can just slide the feeler gauge, remove the feeler gauge and replace the knob. It might also pay to remove the allen screw first and clean up the end with some fine wet and dry paper. If you use any blades bigger than #7, you might want to try a 0.025"+0.005" or 0.75mm feeler gauge.

Years ago when setting the spark plugs on our motorbikes, we used a piece of cig packet as a substitute feeler gauge as it was reckoned to be 0.025" thick.

 

[Chippygeoff]

Martin. You are a star. It is the one thing I have not done and it is so obvious to me now that what you have suggested will cure the problem. The allen screw is not screwed in enough, hence the blade slipping, It only needs tightening a gnats whisker. As soon as I go in the workshop I will get that sorted. I don't have a feeler gauge but i have something similar but I feel it would be worth buying a feeler gauge purely for this sort of problem. Thanks again Martin.

 

[Bryan Bennett]

Geoff I had a problem with the top clamp a while ago,I bought a lever from Mike to replace the Knurled knob to help me to make it easier to tighten ( big mistake ).Instead I had seen a post on here,where a member had drilled the side of the Knurled knob and put two steel pins.This I did on my Knurled knob and the problem was solved,I am know able to tighten the blade easily. :roll:

Bryan

 

[scrimper]

Geoff I had a problem with the top clamp a while ago,I bought a lever from Mike to replace the Knurled knob to help me to make it easier to tighten ( big mistake ).Instead I had seen a post on here,where a member had drilled the side of the Knurled knob and put two steel pins.This I did on my Knurled knob and the problem was solved,I am know able to tighten the blade easily. :roll:

Bryan

Here is a thread about my way of modifying the quick clamp knob!
modified-my-hegner-quick-clamp-t83062.html

 

[martinka]

Geoff I had a problem with the top clamp a while ago,I bought a lever from Mike to replace the Knurled knob to help me to make it easier to tighten ( big mistake ).Instead I had seen a post on here,where a member had drilled the side of the Knurled knob and put two steel pins.This I did on my Knurled knob and the problem was solved,I am know able to tighten the blade easily. :roll:

Bryan

Here is a thread about my way of modifying the quick clamp knob!
modified-my-hegner-quick-clamp-t83062.html

Can I just point out what might not be obvious to some when doing this? Make sure you have your favourite, most used, blade installed, and mark the top of the knob, or where you prefer the lever to be, so you know where to drill it. You don't want to end up with your lever pointing to the back of the saw where it will most likely be useless, or at least difficult to use.

 

[scrimper]

Geoff I had a problem with the top clamp a while ago,I bought a lever from Mike to replace the Knurled knob to help me to make it easier to tighten ( big mistake ).Instead I had seen a post on here,where a member had drilled the side of the Knurled knob and put two steel pins.This I did on my Knurled knob and the problem was solved,I am know able to tighten the blade easily. :roll:

Bryan

Here is a thread about my way of modifying the quick clamp knob!
modified-my-hegner-quick-clamp-t83062.html

Can I just point out what might not be obvious to some when doing this? Make sure you have your favourite, most used, blade installed, and mark the top of the knob, or where you prefer the lever to be, so you know where to drill it. You don't want to end up with your lever pointing to the back of the saw where it will most likely be useless, or at least difficult to use.

Good point Martin, it's what I did but failed to mention in my comment. I must say that since I added this lever to the knurled knob I have found it much easier on my fingers when doing a lot of internal cuts.

 

[ChrisR]

On the subject of blades loosing tension, one other point to bear in mind is oil on the tensioning screw/ threaded rod. Hegner stress in their service book, not to oil this threaded rod.

However a few years back, I was loosing blade tension, the reason, oil had got onto the tensioning rod, I suspect from a little over enthusiastic oiling of the arm pivot pins/bearings, by yours truly.

So the tensioning rod was removed and using the wife’s nail polish remover, all traces of oil removed, reassembled and all was well. Since then I have made sure that any surplus oil is wiped off when oiling the arm pivots. :wink:

One quick tip I posted many moons ago, so I will post again for any new to scroll sawing may find helpful.

When a blade breaks on a Hegner, the bottom clamp usually ends up on the floor, to make locating this clamp easier I painted a number of clamps bright yellow, and always use these as bottom clamps.

Chris R.

 

[scrimper]

Good idea painting the blade holder Chris, I remember you mentioning it some while ago and I forgot all about your excellent advice.
I have spent ages looking for the damn things, they always seem to jump into the most inaccessible places. On one occasion I spent ages looking for one and found it underneath a stack of plywood offcuts inside a cupboard!

 

[nadnerb]

This is why I love this forum, it is a mine of information,
Regards
Brendan

 

[martinka]

I took Chris' advice about painting the clamps yellow and still lost two. I may as well have painted my eyeballs instead. :mrgreen: