Competition part 2 entry. WIP with pics.

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

mr

Established Member
Joined
28 Jun 2005
Messages
1,737
Reaction score
0
Location
Devon
Having just re read the entry guidelines to make sure that my part 2 doesn't have to match my part 1 I just noticed that the guidelines say we can make any number of entries so I may have another go at something else as well. Perhaps my Part 1 design who knows - anyway... Apologies in advance for the poor quality of some of the pics which were taken on a mobile phone when I had forgotten to take the proper camera with me.

The design is for a cabinet on legs with fused and bonded glass panel doors. The glass having its own design and will come later, first I have to get the bits and pieces of the cabinet together. It all started life as a pile of ash I brought home from the last "open day" held at Yandles. Some of you may remember me trying to stuff it all into the back of the car.

The ash was mostly an inch thick and planked about 9 to 10 inches wide. First job was to cut the panel pieces and legs to rough size. Then, in time honoured tradition one side made flat, followed by one edge

548177971_83fd96dd0e.jpg


Panels were flipped over and then thicknessed from roughly an inch down to 20mm (apologies for the mixed measures).

491406700_1e622929a2.jpg


This was done with a wee wooden scrub with a narrow but aggressive blade. It leaves quite a scalloped texture as with most scrubs as you can see here

549393096_9d49228d70.jpg


I didn't have enough of the wide boards to get four sides of the cabinet out so the base is two boards edge laminated.

548177717_9ab1003292.jpg


Boards were sized,

548145495_f3157f1f6a.jpg


shot square and trimmed to final dimension.

548115290_fb6395f450.jpg


The low angle jack gives an incredible level of finish on the shooting board. Imagine what it would be like if I could sharpen it properly :) Those tracks are indicative of a "not totally sharp" or otherwise imperfectly prepped blade I think.

548114964_de6b34874c.jpg


Jointed (excuse my ugly mug creeping into shot).

548114668_463cf17dc3.jpg


Leaving quite a nice finish I thought.

548148785_723e4042a6.jpg


Smoothed and in most cases scraped

547743157_1891bcf438.jpg


While all this was going on and in between times the pieces were stored in stick on the rack.

549624746_9556ddf523.jpg



Then the legs. Four of them cut to rough length and jointed and smoothed as with the cabinet panels. I found the legs harder to plane than the boards. I found the tendency was that any error that crept in was chased around the four faces. But eventually I got four flat surfaces at right angles to each other. Legs were marked with a triangle and numbered, hopefully I wont stick mortises in the wrong place.

548180923_64f6992e7f.jpg


Speaking of mortises

548180327_57cf342f32.jpg


There are eight to do in the legs, two each. chopped out with an LN mortise chisel. Stretchers and rails were cut and tenons formed on the ends. Sorry no pics of the tenons, they were chewed out of the wood with a nasty B&Q back saw and then planed into shape with a shoulder plane.

Et voila - the base. I just need to trim the legs to length and tidy up the legs a bit.

548180037_2481d7e08e.jpg


Next step rebate at the back for the back panel to fit into. I've only done the two side pieces of the cabinet section as yet, hoping for a big splurge over the weekend. The rebates at the side are straight through. Top and bottom boards of course have to be stopped (any advice on the stoppy bit anyone)?
The rebates were formed initially with a Record 405 which came from the bay and then tidied up with a shoulder plane. The biggest problem I had was not having some kind of holddown to keep the board flat on the bench. Because the board had to overhang the edge of the bench so avoid fouling the fence it had a tendency to flip up. I knocked up a threaded bar and offcut affair as a hold down. Ill add a better picture of that later.

548178301_81ac782e87.jpg


Rebates tidied up with the Phillyplane (TM)

548148019_024f99f334.jpg


548116282_b321bde74e.jpg


That's as far as Ive got at the moment. More soon.

Cheers Mike
 
Looking very nice, Mike. Good to see all that hand-tool work :wink: Yes, Rob and I did wonder whether you managed to get all that wood into your car at Yandles :)

Cheers :wink:

Paul
 
Mike

Excellent workmanship and the WIPs are pretty good too. I can guess just how much time it must all be taking. Well done.

Regards.
 
Great work, Mike. Love the pictures. I love to see people working with hand tools, skills I am just starting to have a go at. Lots more WIP's please.

Top and bottom boards of course have to be stopped (any advice on the stoppy bit anyone)?

As far as the "stoppy" bit in a rebate, isn't it normal to drill holes either end with a forstner bit, then plane between them. I may be totaly wrong with that, if so please ignore it

Bob
 
mr":7smz6afp said:
The biggest problem I had was not having some kind of holddown to keep the board flat on the bench. Because the board had to overhang the edge of the bench so avoid fouling the fence it had a tendency to flip up. I knocked up a threaded bar and offcut affair as a hold down. Ill add a better picture of that later.

Mike,

Jake Darvall came up with the best idea I've ever seen for dealing with this type of problem, with his "fish scaler" clamping device. Have a look here http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au ... hp?t=38354

Hope this helps.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

PS If you scroll down Jake's thread a bit, there are some better pictures.
 
Thanks all for your encouragement.
So far all hand tooling, I have very few powered assistants and the ones I do have want to spend their time drinking tea and smoking fags, I have little use for them.

As with anything hand tool based it has taken a while to get to this point. The project got underway in earnest pretty much the same time as the comp guidelines (version 1) were announced and it had been planned prior to that). The planning was pretty much all in my head as usual. I tend to visualise the plan and the steps required to get to the end, there is very little on paper and in fact I don't think I have measurements written down anywhere, though the doors have been drawn to scale for the purposes of cutting the glass. As a result it might all end up a complete dogs dinner :) I can see the bits I have left to do and hope to make inroads this weekend in which case more pics will be forthcoming.
Paul thanks for the link to Jake Davalls Fish Scaler I haven't seen that before so I'll have a look through there, my initial reaction was one of "ooer metal work" but I could be wrong.
Bob the "stoppy bits" I think will be done pretty much as you say, holes drilled - I'm thinking I might chop a mortise at each end and then remove the waste between somehow. It's my job for the morning. Hopefully a pictorial update tomorrow evening. Thanks again all for the feedback and encouragement.
Cheers Mike
 
mr":7as5a79h said:
Paul thanks for the link to Jake Davalls Fish Scaler I haven't seen that before so I'll have a look through there, my initial reaction was one of "ooer metal work" but I could be wrong.

Yes, metal work but not complicated stuff. Jake welded on a butchered G cramp but if you are not into welding you could, perhaps, use one of those fretwork cramps, cut off the end bit that you don't need, drill the other bit and fit it on with small nuts and bolts. The rest is just bending and filing out some teeth.

Good luck,

Cheers :wink:

Paul
 
Nice work, Mike. I still find it astonishing to think you can do all this work by hand only. I am a little surprised to see a pillar drill in the background though...

You mentioned that you have trouble sharpening your planes properly? Well, in that case, you do stunning work with blunt tools!

Although I'd like to one day have a go at doing something with hand tools only, I've taught myself to rely on my planer thicknesser far too much... Then again, it's not working right now - so, who knows! :wink:

Keep it up please! And don't worry about your ugly mug - we've seen enough of that in Good Wood! :wink: :D
 
We last left our hero contemplating stopped rebates...

These were done differently from the sides because they were supposed to be stopped rebates. As it turns out they dont stop and I'm looking for a work around. The problem was that the stop broke out at one end of the base panel and then same again at the top. I could have just ploughed them out after all.

They were marked up, chopped and then routered to destruction.

572107427_b7bfa78435.jpg


561720128_9409a25a28.jpg


572106241_132d821f1a.jpg


Note the offcut screwed to the base of the router to act as a "skate" of sorts and give the router a bit more stability. I'm not sure at the minute where I went wrong. Perhaps I didnt get the blade sharp enough, it's an awkward thing to sharpen, but I didnt really get the base of the rebate cleaned out as I would have liked and then a slip of the router and I managed to knock the stop out in anycase. As with everything it's a case of practice I guess. We'll see how I recover from this later :). Then I moved on to the back. It's going to be a frame and panel arrangement. So out came the Record 405 again and soon after I had the frame grooved.

561722702_802921e252.jpg


The frame will eventually be joined with bridle joints. That's top of the list for tomorrow. Onto the panel. A suitable piece of ash was marked out

572127137_8784754dec_m.jpg


and sawn to size and then marked for resawing.

571592432_7916920423.jpg


I need more gauges I think. I have three but it's nice to set them and leave them set for the duration of a project, I've had to reuse mine a couple of times, though I try to keep offcuts of the gauged sizes to hand as quick indicators of sizes. After marking up the cut the board is clamped up firmly in the bench vice at an angle and the corners are cut.

572125119_db92eaa5d7.jpg


That saw is truly unpleasant to use. This provides a guide for the re-saw to cut down though it's still a case of taking time and being careful. This saw is even more unpleasant to use, mainly because the pieces are all square section, it might be better if I take a rasp to it one day - or save up for a bandsaw, but then theres all the dust to deal with and so on. This saw is a 6 tpi bow saw blade, it cuts in both directions but has to be under huge tension to work well. My ugly mug again...

571591490_da37cade35.jpg


The bit sticking up is a wedge holding the kerf open behind the blade. Don't want any of that nasty kickback thing happening. :) This is what I end up with

572124297_288c1d2316.jpg


Some quite heavy marking from the sawing but nothing to frighten my jointer / jack combo. I had to add a couple of helpers to the bench to hold the boards for planing as they were too thin for my regular planing stop.

571622868_1c39a10dce.jpg


You'll notice how their cunning design allows them to be fully adjusted to suit the thickness of the workpiece. :) So... bookmatched (after a fashion)

572170947_e05a8e2cbf.jpg


matchplaned

571623200_ff40e40a9f.jpg


and glued up.

572170615_f308a9c850.jpg


Next installment fitting the rear frame and back together and then I can start on the doors. The end is in sight. I'll report back soon.

Cheers Mike
 
Mike - not wishing to get into the egg sucking area, it can be a help when doing a stopped rebate (like wot the one you're doing) to deeply cut the edge of the board with a cutting gauge, this helps to prevent tear out when you get close to the line with the router. Doing it this way with a hand held router is quite tricky, the job becomes much easier with a 'leccy machine tho' you would still need to score the edge. Hope of some help - Rob
 
Thanks Rob I marked out the rebate with pencil which was clearly part of my mistake. One of these days Ill get round to making a marking knife and then there'll be no excuses. Knowing that the leccy router was the easiest way to achieve a stopped rebate and knowing that people would look at me funny if I continue building this with hand tools only, I did actually try a leccy router. I ended up having to make a new top panel as I ended up routing my rebate half accross the panel as well as along the edge. I knew there was a reason the thing rarely comes out of its box. :( I may have been better off putting the carcass together and trying to do all four sides at once as I suspect you did with the back of your Elm cabinet - next time perhaps...

Cheers Mike
 

Latest posts

Back
Top