CNC routing

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Hah yes,sorry for that Stef...erm...Grayham. :)

Was having a look at one of those links about the breakout board.

Well the first link the guy was using a motor that was below the required amperage,it states quite clearly in the listings"This board should not be run with motors below 1.5amp.

His motor was 1.4amps peak

Hmmm! would like to know if that chip that blew was the chip that driven the motor and if it was? then the motor has caused the damage?
 
Hi Stef

Question for you. :)

The place where I was obtaining the motors and controllers from,phoned me up this morning to tell me that the controllers are not compatible with the selected motors I chose,I didn't want to pay the extra for the right motors as I need to do this on a budget.

So what I did was order controllers and compatible motors ie I got three motors and twocontrollers because I was thinking of using two motors in parallel to work the gantry as the gantry does more work than the Y axis lift.

The motors will be either side of the bed to even the load.

Does this make sense?
 
RussianRouter":18kq7q93 said:
Hi Stef

Question for you. :)

The place where I was obtaining the motors and controllers from,phoned me up this morning to tell me that the controllers are not compatible with the selected motors I chose,I didn't want to pay the extra for the right motors as I need to do this on a budget.

So what I did was order controllers and compatible motors ie I got three motors and twocontrollers because I was thinking of using two motors in parallel to work the gantry as the gantry does more work than the Y axis lift.

The motors will be either side of the bed to even the load.

Does this make sense?

um. possibly not.
you need 1 controller per motor (if everything is dimensioned properly)
you could poussibly drive 2 motors from one controller (say 2 x 2A/phase motors from a 7A controller) But my guess is that this will be very troublesome.

what i find strange is that the controllers are not compatible with the motors you choose...they should be, they are universal controller, afaik.
 
RussianRouter":3uqrqqqr said:
stef":3uqrqqqr said:
what i find strange is that the controllers are not compatible with the motors you choose...they should be, they are universal controller, afaik.

The motors and controllers both peaked at 4.2amps

Arc code160-010-00450
http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue ... per-Motors

And...the first driver onthis page...
http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue ... er-Drivers

You can limit the curent to whatever you want it to be.
nothing stops you using a 7A driver on a 1A peak motor.

similarly, you can drive a 7A motor with a 1A driver... it just wont have much torque.
 
stef":fdi9nhrk said:
You can limit the curent to whatever you want it to be.
nothing stops you using a 7A driver on a 1A peak motor.

similarly, you can drive a 7A motor with a 1A driver... it just wont have much torque.

This what I couldn't undestand when he said they're not compatible?

Surely if I set the driver to 3.6amps it' will only drive the motor at that amperage at max peak and at the same time stop the driver going over its peak amperage max.
 
RussianRouter":3cfmu5ff said:
stef":3cfmu5ff said:
You can limit the curent to whatever you want it to be.
nothing stops you using a 7A driver on a 1A peak motor.

similarly, you can drive a 7A motor with a 1A driver... it just wont have much torque.

This what I couldn't undestand when he said they're not compatible?

Surely if I set the driver to 3.6amps it' will only drive the motor at that amperage at max peak and at the same time stop the driver going over its peak amperage max.

absolutely.
 
Ok,phoned back up and he said they will not sell the drivers and motors on that basis.

Anyway I have them here now,so I'm stuck with them. :)

Didn't realise they were so heavy :shock:
 
RussianRouter":2iw3hzmc said:
Ok,phoned back up and he said they will not sell the drivers and motors on that basis.

Anyway I have them here now,so I'm stuck with them. :)

Didn't realise they were so heavy :shock:

very very strange..
which motors did you go for ? i have 4 of the 350Nm (near the bottom of the page). 2 for x, 1 on y and 1 on z.
 
stef":2l97cvlr said:
very very strange..
which motors did you go for ? i have 4 of the 350Nm (near the bottom of the page). 2 for x, 1 on y and 1 on z.

They're the ones I originally went for but ended up with the 3x220Nm's
 
The fun begins now,searching out wood in the outhouse and I'm making the gantry out of plywood as will the bed be also.

The bed will be 3/4" and gantry 1/2".

I chose plywood over MDF as MDF is quite heavy and the less weight we have on the movable parts of the project the less the motors suffer the load strain.

The construction of the project in wood won't cost me nothing as all wood I have came out of skips or dissasembled furniture. :)

The only parts thats costing me is the mechanics and components of the build.

Next post will be pics of the gantry itself ie template,cutout and assembled? :)
 
RussianRouter":1q9mdg12 said:
The fun begins now,searching out wood in the outhouse and I'm making the gantry out of plywood as will the bed be also.

The bed will be 3/4" and gantry 1/2".

I chose plywood over MDF as MDF is quite heavy and the less weight we have on the movable parts of the project the less the motors suffer the load strain.

The construction of the project in wood won't cost me nothing as all wood I have came out of skips or dissasembled furniture. :)

The only parts thats costing me is the mechanics and components of the build.

Next post will be pics of the gantry itself ie template,cutout and assembled? :)

be very carefull in your construction.
you need to be squarer than square. dont worry about the load on the "small" motors.
my first machine had 2 250mA motors, which were more than enough to move the gantry and the router up and down, with loads of power to spare. the third motor (on y) was half of that, so it struggled a bit.
stepper are deceptively powerfull !
i wouldnt worry about the weight of MDF over ply wood.. peanuts for the motors.
just use torsion boxes and strengthen everywere.
 
whatever you do, dont rely on unsuported rods.. they just dont work well enough.
they may be fine for a dremel bearing gantry, but not strong enough for a router.
my gantry was as light as can be, with a 1/4" router on top, (in fact, even without the router) and i had way too much flex in the rods.
they were only 600mm long.
Most people do complain about the flex in unsupported rods.
 
stef":2cqt5mdy said:
whatever you do, dont rely on unsuported rods.. they just dont work well enough.

I'm ahead of you on this one,Stef. :)

I have devised a way round that and it should be done with all long length slide rails on a homebrew CNC.

The way round it is to have a double rail,since the gantry rely's on rail support only we implement one rail below the bed and another rail directly above this rail on top of the bed this way the weight is evened out and should not deflex the rail.
 
ok, doubling the rail has been done to minimise flex.
then again, you are doubling the alingment issue. you need to align 4 parallel rods. trickier than 2 !
in terms of costs, i am not sure you would be saving much.
I'd say not my configuration of choice, but then , i havent tried it.

here are a couple of pix from my 1st machine taken 1h ago.
it shows the state its in !
also, what i wanted to show is the "bodging" i implemented to conteract flex.
because i have 45deg bearings, they not only push down on the rods, but also outwards. so i stuck some side supports (2 per side) connected by long threads across the machine. they are adjusted to that they push just enough on the rods.
finally, a close up of the rods.
they started a thick walled steel hollow tubes. they were not strong enough. so i stuck a M20 threaded bar inside, and filled the gap (1mm) with resin. the result is a pretty strong and heavy looking bar.
well.. not strong enough ! they flexed much less, but still too much. It did not take much force to twist the gantry on the rods, which means trouble when machining harder woods.

anyway, regarding the motors, they are rated a 350Ncm..if you cannot visualise torque, imagine a 35Kg (5-6 stones) load onto a cable, on the shaft of the motor (1cm). the motor will hold in.
anything lighter, the motor will lift.
basically, unless you use a lever of some sort, you will not stop the motor turning with your fingers alone.
you probably need 10% of this with a mdf/ply machine. unless you have a 35Kg router !
:eek:

DSC_0080.jpg


 
Here is a quick calculation i just did to try and show you what degree of flex you may expect:
i use a solid steel, 20mm diameter rod as your rail, youngs modulus is 210 000.
that gives us a Izz = of 15707 mm4
If i use a 1000mm long rod, and stick a 12.5Kg weight in the middle, i can expect about -0.2mm of flex.

if you use two bars, you can expect half of that, say 0.1mm.
the question is how heavy is your gantry (12.5 x 2 sides =25Kg is probably on the heavy side) and how much force can you expect from the spinning router. I'd imagine 25kg is probably not far of the mark.
anyway, expect 0.1mm of flex. probably ok for most wood work.
using a wider diameter bar would reduce this further.

all calculations are made from here:
http://pagesperso-orange.fr/philippe.fi ... poutre.htm
I know, it's in french, but you can probably find an english one somewhere !
 
Back
Top