Chisels (asked umpteen times before so apologies)

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
scooby":32inuj1d said:
The japanese don't seem to mind using hammers on wooden handle chisels.
They also have very strong metal hoops at the tops. Much different than ones without and certainly plastic ones [excepting ones with metal strike buttons].

The token metal ring on many brands of wood-handled western chisels is too thin to contain much of the wood's deformity when struck by a metal hammer. I suspect there are some which have thicker metal. Maybe.

My kit which I took onsite had a cut down caulking mallet. Small enough not to fill up a large space in the kit, but the combination of metal and wood made for a good chisel hammer which could also be used for encouraging other wooden things to move without too much damage.

Take care, Mike
 
Oh jeez. OK if I was to get a mallet, which would be a good weight to get?

Looking on Fine tools, theres a few I like (ish). I actually really like the round ones and the 2 Cherries brass ones but I amagine they wouln't be suited to my kind of work and are difficult to use? I'm still not keen on the square type but the bottom 2 on this page look ok

http://www.fine-tools.com/ham1.htm

Just not sure which weight would be best suited. I've haven't even held a mallet for nigh on 13 years so I have no comparison as to what is too heavy or too light.
 
scooby without trying them, i would look at 3001007, at 30 euros seems a decent deal. and a decent weight. also not too long
the thing about these is that you can hold them at various places to change the value of your swing.

my dad who was a stone mason, and he used to hold his metal mallet about halfway up the shaft, so worth thinking about starting there.
paul :wink:
 
engineer one":36iloqfc said:
scooby without trying them, i would look at 3001007, at 30 euros seems a decent deal. and a decent weight. also not too long
the thing about these is that you can hold them at various places to change the value of your swing.

my dad who was a stone mason, and he used to hold his metal mallet about halfway up the shaft, so worth thinking about starting there.
paul :wink:

That mallet definately looks good but I thought the rounds would be difficult to use, or am I being paranoid? Are these type ok for joinery use (fitting hinges, locks, general notching,etc)?

Can someone explain how a metal mallet won't damage a chisel handle? Being brass with a timber core (the shaft) it's going to have more 'give' than a solid steel hammer. Brass is softer then steel,but its still metal at the end of the day. I'm confused :D
 
scooby":pg40rau5 said:
Oh jeez. OK if I was to get a mallet, which would be a good weight to get?

Looking on Fine tools, theres a few I like (ish). I actually really like the round ones and the 2 Cherries brass ones but I amagine they wouln't be suited to my kind of work and are difficult to use? I'm still not keen on the square type but the bottom 2 on this page look ok

http://www.fine-tools.com/ham1.htm

Just not sure which weight would be best suited. I've haven't even held a mallet for nigh on 13 years so I have no comparison as to what is too heavy or too light.

Scooby,

For an avowed animal who uses a lump hammer, you're getting a little prissy over your choice of mallet! :lol:

I got mine (the square type you don't like but haven't tried for 13 years) from my local hardware/fancy goods/cheap tools emporium run by a family of our Asian friends - they were about 3 quid each.

One in my tool box and one in the workshop.

Cheers
Brad

PS I buy an embarrasingly large proportion of my tools from this shop - like 6' sash cramps for £12!
 
i think it is just practice, scooby. at the end of the day your estwing is actually not flat at the face, so it is just perception.

i accept that carvers tend to use chisels with narrower tops, but even so it is practice. i was thinking about your muscles and your past history :twisted: :oops:

paul :wink:
 
engineer one":3vedsges said:
i think it is just practice, scooby. at the end of the day your estwing is actually not flat at the face, so it is just perception.

i accept that carvers tend to use chisels with narrower tops, but even so it is practice. i was thinking about your muscles and your past history :twisted: :oops:

paul :wink:

Think its best we leave my past history out of this. It's already got me into trouble on this thread :D

I definately appreciate the help though :D That goes to everyone else too
 
Brad Naylor":163asext said:
scooby":163asext said:
Oh jeez. OK if I was to get a mallet, which would be a good weight to get?

Looking on Fine tools, theres a few I like (ish). I actually really like the round ones and the 2 Cherries brass ones but I amagine they wouln't be suited to my kind of work and are difficult to use? I'm still not keen on the square type but the bottom 2 on this page look ok

http://www.fine-tools.com/ham1.htm

Just not sure which weight would be best suited. I've haven't even held a mallet for nigh on 13 years so I have no comparison as to what is too heavy or too light.

Scooby,

For an avowed animal who uses a lump hammer, you're getting a little prissy over your choice of mallet! :lol:

I got mine (the square type you don't like but haven't tried for 13 years) from my local hardware/fancy goods/cheap tools emporium run by a family of our Asian friends - they were about 3 quid each.

One in my tool box and one in the workshop.

Cheers
Brad

PS I buy an embarrasingly large proportion of my tools from this shop - like 6' sash cramps for £12!

First, a butcher, now prissy! Its a good job you're a fellow Mancunian otherwise I'd be using some choice language!! :D Seriously though, my dislike with the square mallets is the majority use square handles. The ones on the page I linked to are the only square type I've seen with round handles.

I guess it'd be possible to make or modify a mallet so that it has a round handle but at the end of the day, I'm not really into making my own tools and don't mind admitting that I have little talent in that field.
 
There's actually a good reason for the non-round handle on the traditional joiners mallet - it helps you orientate that square face on the tool/work. I made one with a round handle (German pattern) and frankly it was pants in comparison because it could slew round in your grip and you wouldn't know if you were concentrating on the work and not the mallet head. Joel of Tools For Working Wood advocates having a mallet of softer wood than that of your handles, on the basis it's less hassle replacing one mallet than X number of chisel handles and that makes a lot of sense.

Anyway, fwiw, and that's not much 'cos everyone has preferences, I use a big a** trad mallet on mortise chisels for a lot of whallop with little finesse, but for careful chopping (like fitting hinges or cutting dovetails) I use a round wooden one a bit like the woodcarver's ones on that page but made it myself. The advantage being the head will always present its "face" no matter what, but at the expense of less whallop per blow. Bear in mind I don't go on site, so I can pick a particular whacking tool for each task - and I have a bit of a thing for mallets as well as chisels, planes, saws, braces...

Cheers, Alf
 
scooby":3sjv3t6t said:
I guess it'd be possible to make or modify a mallet so that it has a round handle but at the end of the day, I'm not really into making my own tools and don't mind admitting that I have little talent in that field.

Scooby - it is quite easy. If you buy a square handled mallet, when you get your nice new 2 cherry chisels, put the mallet in a vice (or hold it down with your foot) and chop lumps out of the handle (belting the chisels with your estwing) until you get it feeling comfortable in your hand. :lol:

Steve
 
so you use all those tools all the time :^o

if not then surely you are at the very least a facilitator of collecting :twisted: :lol: :roll:

paul :wink:
 
Mr_Grimsdale":11ahq8in said:
Alf":11ahq8in said:
There's actually a good reason for the non-round handle on the traditional joiners mallet - it helps you orientate that square face on the tool/work. I made one with a round handle (German pattern) and frankly it was pants in comparison because it could slew round in your grip and you wouldn't know if you were concentrating on the work and not the mallet head.
snipCheers, Alf

And of course if you really want to whack a chisel a plastic handle is essential - for longer life of both chisel and mallet. They look nice these trendy ornamental wooden handles but they are a bit useless IMHO.

cheers
Jacob

Fair point but is there any manufacturers of plastic handled chisels who use high carbon steel (or any other steel) that is comparable in hardness to the 2 cherries or japanese laminated steel chisel?
 
from someone who continually claims that older methods are always best,
i wonder how jacob justifies the use of plastic handled chisels.

wood has been used for handles for thousands of years, and changing a handle is not that difficult, but because of the way in which plastic handles are attached, let alone the quality of the steel, it is almost impossible to replace the handles, so you waste a half used chisel too early i believe.

frankly i think that wooden handles can absorb more wacking than plastic ones.

paul :wink:
 
I went in B&Q earlier tonight (around 8.30pm) mainly to get some drywall screen (which I couldn't find :( ) so had to settle for wet & dry. Whilst in there I had a look at the mallets. They only had a B&Q own brand traditional square mallet. I actually quite liked it :shock: quite a bit smaller than the ones I remember at college. Didn't get one but probably will soon, either the cheapie B&Q or one online from Axminster, Dieter Schmid. I could be on the way to being a reformed character :D
 
Scooby

You could make one :whistle: :D

I still have the one I made it 17 ( that is a few years ago now :shock: , but not as long as some 8-[ )

Coat , door and I am leaving
 

Latest posts

Back
Top