Chisel set for joinery shop

[RobinBHM]

I need to buy a new chisel set just standard bevelled edge in 6mm to say 32mm sizes.

They need to be robust as used by different joiners. Mostly used for squaring hinge cut outs, cleaning glue off, paring lock cut outs etc. I dare say also for applying 2 pack, brummer etc as well.

The current set are this brand: http://www.axminster.co.uk/kirschen-110 ... set-510481 -Im not sure I want to spend that much though.

Ive also got some aldi specials, although the edges chip too quickly. Perhaps I should persevere with them though, as I heard they get better after a few sharpenings.

Narex chisels look good although reviews seem to consider them, rather cheaply made. Im not too bothered about being pretty, just want a strong edge that'll stay sharp for a reasonable time.

 

[ColeyS1]

Marples split proof sound ideal for your situation. It's what I used for 10+ years before I decided I wanted something a bit nicer. Usually about 50 quid for a set of 6. No problem getting them sharp, I'm sure they'd be good enough !

Coley

 

[YorkshireMartin]

I personally find narex stay sharp a good while, depending on use. They do several different types, mine are just the basic set (of 3) but I knew a lot of people use them and find them to be really quite good, which is why I bought them. They can be picked up 2nd hand for peanuts.

I've used them for everything from "deep" mortices down to about 60mm, to paring tenon cheeks, glue clean ups, basically all sorts. As long as I keep them sharp they don't let me down. I've had the edges chip slightly, twice, but that was due to me smashing through a knot in a lump of redwood, so to be expected I think.

I'm not using them commercially though, I admit. I think for £66 a set brand new, you can't really go far wrong, the ones I have certainly aren't monkey metal and they are easy to sharpen.

Alternatively, what about a set of old blue handle stanleys? Cheap as chips.

 

[PAC1]

I cannot understand the logic, if time is money why would you ruin a good edge that took time to sharpen and hone to apply 2 pack or remove glue. If you did any such activity where I was trained and the foreman saw you, you would be lucky to be in work the following day.
You can buy plastic spatulas for pennies on Amazon.
If it must be a chisel buy any old chisel at the car boot sale grind it to something approximating an edge and use it to apply 2 pack and generally abuse.

 

[No skills]

If your busy enough you'll grab what ever is convenient to get the job done and sort out any problems during down time.

 

[PAC1]

If your busy enough you'll grab what ever is convenient to get the job done and sort out any problems during down time.

Err No. Not where I was trained it was a commercial shop with serious pressure to be efficient. But we were taught to have pride in our tools and respect them as they were the route to efficiency and told a lot about the attitude of the owner. A chisel is a precision cutting tool - why ruin it.
Take your argument on, you have just blunted your chisel and spread epoxy over the flat back of the chisel. Ten minutes later you need to pair a 64th off a joint or hinge housing. The choice is go get another chisel or sort out the one you ruined. The time it would have taken to get a plastic spatula is gone and you still have to renovate that chisel so a double loss.

 

[RobinBHM]

Many thanks for the replies.

I think I may go for some decent quality narex, kirschen or similar for work requiring a sharp chisel like paring hinge cut outs etc and get blue stanleys /marples split proof for clean ups. A quick look on fleabay shows they certainly available and not much money for a decent chisel that will take a good edge.

I take on board the point that a chisel is a precision cutting tool, which makes me think we should have them separated for different functions. That happens pretty much already anyway. Chisels are hardly required at all in the joinery manufacture, certainly not for any fine paring work other than the occasional repair. There are some minor specific tasks a chisel is used for such as squaring out hinge butts and those chisels are kept for that function only.

Our joinery is assembled with PU glue, it is best to remove it after is has mostly set, ie after it has foamed and has no stickiness left but before it sets really hard. The best way to do that is using a chisel.

I do wish filler knives were available very narrow, say 8mm and 12mm. Generally a 25mm filler knife is the narrowest which is hardly useful for 2 packing small bits of breakout or filling over screwheads for subsequent painting.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Get some cheap ones and cut them down?
I have a shelf in my 'shop where there are pots containing cotton buds, glue sticks, lollypop sticks/wooden plant labels, kebeb skewers, cable ties, c/a glue - thin and thick, epoxy, wood filler, a filling knife, a Stanley knife etc. I can't be bothered when I need something quickly to down tools to search for them.

 

[PAC1]

Narrow filler knife can be made by remodelling a putty knife on the belt sander or look on Amazon for oil painting spatula set

 

[Jelly]

If your busy enough you'll grab what ever is convenient to get the job done and sort out any problems during down time.

Err No. Not where I was trained it was a commercial shop with serious pressure to be efficient. But we were taught to have pride in our tools and respect them as they were the route to efficiency and told a lot about the attitude of the owner. A chisel is a precision cutting tool - why ruin it.
Take your argument on, you have just blunted your chisel and spread epoxy over the flat back of the chisel. Ten minutes later you need to pair a 64th off a joint or hinge housing. The choice is go get another chisel or sort out the one you ruined. The time it would have taken to get a plastic spatula is gone and you still have to renovate that chisel so a double loss.

Where I worked, we had a small set of chisels for each cell in the factory, the cheapest Cromwell would sell us... To be abused as much as required to get the job done.

Each Semi-Skilled and Skilled man who required hand tools to do their job had a tool allowance and a lockable cupboard... It was expected that they would select and maintain suitable kit for the job at hand. Apprenticees & Trainees would borrow tools if required from the person training them, and if they failed to respect them might suddenly discover that their tool allowance was paying for a replacement, whilst they had a few weeks of floor sweeping and any other unpleasant duties that arose to look forward to.

I happen to think it's a good system, but it probably works out more expensive, as for anyone who has a basic set established the ongoing allowance is basically a perk.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

... anyone who has a basic set established the ongoing allowance is basically a perk.
Yes. The system did what it was intended to do - teach people to look after their tools, and not buy stools they would have to replace.

 

[Jacob]

The Axminster cheapest are OK for most purposes http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-be ... s-ax857158
The two-tone handles remind you of shell suits and the bevel edges are chunky, but they work perfectly well. Faces may show machine marks but just ignore them - all that flattening and polishing is just for tool enthusiasts!
They'd certainly outlast those Kirchen wooden handles, but not as good as Marples.