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Chestnut End Seal Problem

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Tomsk

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I have a strange problem with a 5 litre bottle of Chestnut brand end sealer. For 'love nor money' I can't open the bottle! I've tried hot water, band straps, chain wrench... most frustrating after having spent a couple of hours cutting laburnum to length, ready for sealing. This was a band new bottle, previously unopened.

Other than cutting a hole in the bottle or lid, does anyone have any other bright ideas?

Cheers
 

woodyturner

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Go to the local builders yard and buy some pva cement adhesive and water it down 3 to 1 and it will last for years
 

petercharlesfagg

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You are not alone with this situation, all I did was drill a hole in the top and then sealed it with a fresh piece of insulation tape every time I needed some.

No big deal, 99% of the time they open quite easily!

Regards Peter.
 

Tomsk

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woodyturner":21hdyg4i said:
Go to the local builders yard and buy some pva cement adhesive and water it down 3 to 1 and it will last for years
Totally useless and impractical advice thanks when I have clearly stated that I have just bought five litres of the Chestnut product.
 

Tomsk

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petercharlesfagg":3b8fv84r said:
You are not alone with this situation, all I did was drill a hole in the top and then sealed it with a fresh piece of insulation tape every time I needed some.

No big deal, 99% of the time they open quite easily!

Regards Peter.
This is what I may have to resort to Peter though it does rub against my inner sense of order!

And if this bottle has a child proof cap, it works for adults too. There is definitely no instructions, and I can't figure out how it could work. Plastic is too flimsy to support most of the depression lock systems..

Cheers
 

woodyturner

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Tomsk":64zky6uu said:
woodyturner":64zky6uu said:
Go to the local builders yard and buy some pva cement adhesive and water it down 3 to 1 and it will last for years
Totally useless and impractical advice thanks when I have clearly stated that I have just bought five litres of the Chestnut product.
That was for future reference and to save you money next time but I wont bother in future
 

Phil Pascoe

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At risk of getting my head bitten off, why would anyone buy something to coat the ends of boards? you can use old glue, varnish, paint, virtually anything you can find in a normal garage/ workshop?
 

dickm

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Grandmothers, eggs and all that, but it isn't one of those apparently flimsy caps where you have to press on two sides, which then swells the other two sides to release a couple of plastic spigots? SWMBO has some plant food in one like that and it is a total pig to open.
 

WoodMangler

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I had the same trouble with a tin of Chestnut Sanding Sealer today - hadn't been opened for a couple of weeks, had to put it in the metalwork vice to shift the top. Is there anything I can put on the threads to keep it free ?
 

CHJ

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WoodMangler":1x1ob9x5 said:
I had the same trouble with a tin of Chestnut Sanding Sealer today - hadn't been opened for a couple of weeks, had to put it in the metalwork vice to shift the top. Is there anything I can put on the threads to keep it free ?
Keep the threads clean, wipe with thinners, and the top with its card seal firmly seated when you shake the tin.
Dependant upon how you apply the sealer you might get less spill over the top if you retain the metal transport seals and just pierce a hole in them, this limits the amount of sealer slopping around the top/cloth interface.
 

Tomsk

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phil.p":3n9m3vns said:
At risk of getting my head bitten off, why would anyone buy something to coat the ends of boards? you can use old glue, varnish, paint, virtually anything you can find in a normal garage/ workshop?
Why would you get your head bitten off for asking a sensible question?

The reason I bought the stuff in the first place was to avoid the problems others have told me about when they have come back to their much valued stock in a number of years, only to find it mostly useless. To learn, and play the odds, I am sealing a third of my stock in end sealer (when I can open it), a third in wax and the rest in garage left overs.

Cheers
 

CHJ

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My experience has been that the sealant type does not make much difference as long as it stays on and is reasonably impervious to moisture.

Most losses have been down to my own impatience or lack of care, and drying it too quickly, followed by a few critter invasions.

Current norm for me is to use hot wax, basically frying the ends of logs that will fit in the pan to expel the surface moisture (steam bubbles) for a few seconds or painting it on as hot as possible onto log face suspended over heated wax.
Partially dried wood blanks are likewise rolled in the 'frying wax'

Anything too big to handle with wax or located away from base and at risk of splitting before it can be recovered gets a good coat of old paint slapped on it.
 

gregmcateer

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Tomsk,

Can you please post up the results of your experiment, when known - I have only been turning for a short while, and almost all the wood I get is green, so I have been using PVA adhesive slapped on - Seems to be working on the whold, but would value hearing your experiences.

Re your bottle - it might sound daft, but have you tried speaking ot Chestnut - they may have a bright idea?

Cheers
Greg
 

Tomsk

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I'll be happy to share the results, though it may be a few years :shock:

On the subject of speaking to Chestnut, I shall be returning it to the dealer from whence it came tomorrow... he can have a go a straining his wrists whilst I peruse the exotic blanks!

Cheers
 

Tomsk

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CHJ":eq8goa0z said:
Partially dried wood blanks are likewise rolled in the 'frying wax'
Do you mean you are coating the entire blank/log in wax or paint if it is partially seasoned? How does the moisture escape? Much of the laburnum I have cut up today is older stock that I acquired and am trying to save. I've cut the ends back until there is no visible cracking...
 

Terry Smart

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Hmmm...


Regarding the Cellulose Sanding Sealer, this really is down to good house-keeping and making sure the threads of the neck are clean before putting the cap back on. Not that I do it myself every time, but it does make a difference. Removing these caps is all about leverage and grip, I've never had a lid so gummed on that I couldn't remove it with a reasonable pair of grips.

As to the End Seal... that is strange. It's not a child-proof cap so it should remove 'relatively' easily. Of course, we have to make sure they are on tight before they leave us as by the time they reach the end user they could have travelled hundreds (sometimes thousands) of miles - and judging by the 'care' some of the carriers take some of those miles could be travelled upside down!
We use heavy duty plastic bottles for the End Seal rather than the cheap flimsy ones and the caps should have ridges on them to make them easier to grip with either by hand or with a wrench. Again, I've never had one that I couldn't open but some of them have caused me trouble on the odd occasion.
I'm sorry you've had this experience, I'm going to go into the warehouse later this morning and try all the bottles we have in there and see what they are like. I'd be interested to know how you get on with the shop please.

If anyone else has a similar problem please let me know - and if any have resorted to Peter's solution again let me know and I'll send a replacement cap out!
 

CHJ

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Tomsk":fgauhe2p said:
CHJ":fgauhe2p said:
Partially dried wood blanks are likewise rolled in the 'frying wax'
Do you mean you are coating the entire blank/log in wax or paint if it is partially seasoned? How does the moisture escape? Much of the laburnum I have cut up today is older stock that I acquired and am trying to save. I've cut the ends back until there is no visible cracking...
I was referring to stock I have had drying for 1-2 yrs and have cut up into circular blanks to save storage space, I roll the edges only in wax to make sure I get all the end grain. Just like the commercial ones.

I never coat any "Faces" in wax only end grain (log ends and branch cut offs)

Coating needs to be done immediately you cut the ends, if not possible sealing in a plastic bag can help reduce cracking until you can get to it but still risky.

Don't keep chasing split ends, you won't win. best to just seal them and forget, big diameter logs might benefit by wrapping sealed end in plastic as well as sealing.
 

Tomsk

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The bottle is open! HURRAH!

It finally succumbed to the blows of hammer and chisel wielded by the dealer. Many thanks to ASK Tools for providing the entertainment...
 

Tomsk

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Thanks also to Terry at Chestnut for his valued advice and support (both public and private). It's good to see a supplier who 'sticks' :) behind a product...
 
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