Chest of Drawers wip - slow hand tool project

[deema]

Hi Andy

Looking really nice, well done. I'm showing my ignorance here, which isn't difficult for me! Can you explain why slips are used on the draw sides to house the bottom? What's the benefit over cutting the rebate directly into the draw sides?

 

[AndyT]

Hi Andy

Looking really nice, well done. I'm showing my ignorance here, which isn't difficult for me! Can you explain why slips are used on the draw sides to house the bottom? What's the benefit over cutting the rebate directly into the draw sides?

There are two reasons. One is that the sides are quite thin - about 7mm - so they would be considerably weakened by cutting a groove.
The other is that doubling up the thickness gives a wider area for the drawer to run on, slowing down any wear. That doesn't really matter in this case as I shan't be putting much weight in the drawers but I wanted the whole thing to be an exercise in exploring traditional construction.

 

[Jacob]

Yep. Having repaired numerous "un-slipped" drawers which have failed at this weakest point.

 

[n0legs]

Looking good Andy =D>

 

[deema]

Thanks Andy, I hadn't thought of that, it's a very good point.

 

[No skills]

Nice to see alls well, well almost

There's certainly a lot more detail in building a more traditional chest of draws than I thought, best left to those here with patience.
Well done Andy.

I was "tidying" up in the shed yesterday and found some bits of draw that come from my parents bedroom draws. They got the chest second hand when they got married (40 years this year), it's (the draw) got oak or chestnut sides with machine cut dovetails and pine slips nailed on.
A strange mix and match of material and technique I thought.

 

[AndyT]

A bit more progress to report.

Having made one drawer, all the same processes were repeated to get to this stage:

which was nice. I felt I was really making progress, getting used to how to make drawers, and remembering not to cut the corners off the sides:

So I soon had the framework of drawer number three glued up, ready for fitting the next day. Much later, lying in bed, I realised that I had forgotten to plough the groove in the back of the drawer front, where the drawer bottom fits in!

Clearly, the simplest way to cut these grooves is with a plough plane. That's one reason why the design hides the ends of the groove behind the bottom dovetail - through grooves are quick and easy. If I didn't want to start again or dismantle the joints (I didn't) I was going to have to make this groove inside the part-finished drawer.

So, I marked out two lines with marking gauges, and completed them up into the corners.

and I started to chisel.

This is practical, provided that you have tools which will fit into the restricted space, ie (a) a nice short 1/8" chisel, and (b) a nice compact mallet, such as this lovely little one in brass and lemonwood, made by that nice Mr Coates!

I soon realised I could go quicker with an edge to work against, so clamped a handy cabinet scraper in position

With the ends clear, there was enough room to clear out to full depth with the petite Record 043

and soon I had a complete, usable groove. It should have taken a couple of minutes; instead it took about half an hour. Still, I'm not counting the time, and certainly not rushing, but with the bottom slid in, I have now got this far:

 

[Graham Orm]

Great recovery Andy. I'd have been tempted to glue strip along the back of the drawer front the same depth as the rebate would have been, but then I'm lazy!

 

[Racers]

A draw slip on the front would have worked as well, and maybe set a new trend!

I have a 1/8 mortice chisel as well, and a couple or 4 043s :shock:


Pete

 

[rafezetter]

Yes a great recovery, but without that record you could possibly have got some scrap wood and done the Paul Sellers' "poor mans router plane" with a chisel and a guideblock nailed on, thus expiditing the need for height for a mallet.

 

[AndyT]

Thanks for the dodge suggestions.

It's still not finished, but it's getting closer...

 

[custard]

It should have taken a couple of minutes; instead it took about half an hour. Still, I'm not counting the time, and certainly not rushing

There speaks a true craftsman.

I really mean it. An oversight like that could happen to anyone, but how it's dealt with is one of those "craftsmen from cowboys" tests that in some ways are what projects like this are all about. And you should pat yourself on the back for passing with flying colours!

 

[OM99]

Andy,

Hat off to you, lovely project some very good skills on show, and a lot of patience (something I lack to ever attempt anything like that). It is very nice to see hands tools still have a place in woodworking and that not everything need to be build using power tools if you have the determination.

Oli

 

[devonwoody]

Andy,knowing your interest in antique tools .today Monday on flog it they visited an old mansion full of old furniture, marquetry, inlay and parquetry
They displayed a shoulder knife, like an extra long turning chisel that rested on a shoulder and carved out the inlay pattern.
worth going to Iplayersee if you missed.

 

[AndyT]

Andy,knowing your interest in antique tools .today Monday on flog it they visited an old mansion full of old furniture, marquetry, inlay and parquetry
They displayed a shoulder knife, like an extra long turning chisel that rested on a shoulder and carved out the inlay pattern.
worth going to Iplayersee if you missed.

Good grief, DW, if I have to cover the whole thing with little cut-out flowers, I will never get it finished!

Seriously though, good spot - it's rare to see such a tool on mainstream telly. I've read about them in the recent translation of the Roubo book on marquetry so knew they existed, but it's nice to see one in the flesh. Thanks for the thought.

 

[AndyT]

So, with all the drawers made, it was time to sort out the handles and get them all fixed straight.

The first step was to work out the measurements so the handles are central on the holes, which are 2" apart, and mark the right distance from one end

then intersect that line with a marking gauge and mark the spot

then drill a little hole to the right depth

enlarge it a bit so it's a good fit for a No 4 screw:

install a steel screw at this end

make sure that the handle is straight, using this pre-prepared jig

mark the second hole from the inside

and repeat the drilling etc for the other hole. Then insert a second steel screw to make the hole ready for the brass screws.

After some more repetition, this got me to the stage where the chest looks like this:

This seems to be a reasonable compromise between making relying on measurements and making a more complicated jig. They look straight enough for me!

 

[Graham Orm]

Tidy!

 

[John15]

Looking very nice indeed Andy.

John

 

[AndyT]

With the drawers and their handles completed, the last step was to make and fit some drawer stops.
First, I cleaned up the front edges of the carcase, to remove face edge marks and suchlike.

The wood for the drawer stops needs to be very thin - to get maximum space in the drawers, the clearance underneath the bottoms was only 1/8", and a bit less after fitting. Rather than plane something to size, I turned to my stash of useful recycled wood and pulled out a slat from a wooden Venetian blind.

This is a very clear, tight grained wood which is ideal for the purpose. I cut five strips, marked them, stacked them together and cut them out.

I could have got a mitre saw out, but that would have meant clearing the bench, and for a little job like this, a holdfast on the sawing board and a freehand cut is just fine, and a lot quicker.

To fit the stops at the right depth, I made up another jig from a bit of hardwood floor nosing, cut down along one side.

I could hold this in place, snug each stop up against it, and clamp them in place while the glue dried.

While the glue was setting I could get on with the finishing. I decided on Tru-oil for the whole thing. To do the drawer handles I made a stand with panel pins lined up to sit in the fixing holes.

For the carcase and drawer fronts I just wiped the oil on with a rag, removing any excess and being careful not to get drips on the corners. I oiled just the fronts of the drawers, not the sides, which is what I have observed on antique pieces.

That was all last night. Today, now that everything is dry, I have turned to assembly.

When I decided to simply screw the top on from under the topmost rails, I knew that I would need a small screwdriver to get in the space. A perfect job for a Goodell-Pratt 668!

All screws were waxed, were going into pre-made holes, and were fitted with a screwdriver of the right size. I rubbed a candle along the sides and edges of the drawers, which I am pleased to report all now open and close reasonably smoothly.

And so, here is the result!

This is not where it will be going, but I think it's worth leaving it on view for a few days yet.

So that's the end of the story, which started a mere four months ago, with this lot

Thanks to all who have followed along as I have pondered about how to design and make it. I've thoroughly enjoyed the experience and am really grateful for all the help, suggestions and comments along the way.

I don't know what I will be making next - I suspect there will be a few old tool distractions before I embark on anything big. But I hope to share them all here.

 

[Mr_P]

That's a shame, I've been really enjoying this thread and now its complete.

Great job Andy and thanks for sharing/documenting.

=D> =D> =D>