Chainsaw

[Jamie Copeland]

Hi folks

I'm looking for advice on chainsaw choice.

I've currently got an old McCulloch that leaks oil and isn't fixable.

I want to be able to cross cut logs so that I can then move them into the bandsaw to create turning blanks.

I'd like to hear about what chainsaw you use and whether or not you use a log saw horse?

Cheers

Jamie

 

[Wuffles]

I've got a Husqvarna locked into a metal saw horse on a pivot - can't remember what it's called but it does mean you can cut logs single handedly, one hand on the trigger and one hand feeding the logs through the saw horse. Overkill for what you are doing though, unless you want a lot of firewood, or blanks.

Also have a Stihl MS271 I think? Eco start - SURPRISE! - feature on it makes for a few giggles up a tree, but then again, up a tree it's easier to start than a standard start one.

You'll see the same brands come up over and over in this thread I expect.

 

[murdoch]

We have a timberpro 62cc with 20'' bar. Really cheap at abot £80 and wasn't expecting much but it's amazing. Have had it for a year being used to fell trees then cut up for firewood. We have cut about 8 ten tonne trailer loads of firewood and it's worked perfect. Been quite abused but still starts and cuts really well. Highly recommended.

 

[Beau]

Bit spoilt for choice here and love my Husky 346 XP but for what you describe might a mains electric one be up to the job? Non of the hassle of 2 stroke engines and fuel plus well priced. Not used one myself but often here of occasional users who think they are great.

 

[porker]

Got a Husqvarna 135 with 14" bar. Nice saw starts easily. I also have a cheap electric Titan I bought in Screwfix before I moved into the countryside and didn't want to upset the neighbours with noise. Surprisingly good and I still use both. I have a cantilever type sawhorse which holds the end and will be making a traditional one when I can be bothered as there are situations when both are useful. Use them for firewood both felling small trees and cross cutting for logs.
Personally I like Husqvarna and Stihl stuff as they can be fixed easily and parts are available but there are other good makes.

 

[blackrodd]

Definately use a saw horse and I always go for stihl, Start with the MS170 Which has a 12" guide bar, surprising what you can cut with this.
Or you can go for the MS181, Which takes a 12", 14", or a 16" chain and bar
I Recently bought a new saw myself, (last year) and one of my mates is a Horticultural mechanic and agent for them and I give him a hand sometimes, They're really good saws!
Here's a link for the MS 170,--
https://www.toolstoday.co.uk/stihl-ms17 ... Akae8P8HAQ
There's a lot to be said for the electric chainsaw too!, no petrol or starting issues etc, minimal servicing too.
Regards Rodders

 

[Beau]

Sorry Rooders but a 16" bar on a wee MS181 is asking a bit much of the poor thing. Just got myself one for small work and its gutless with a 14" bar would never want to try it with a 16".

 

[blackrodd]

Sorry Rooders but a 16" bar on a wee MS181 is asking a bit much of the poor thing. Just got myself one for small work and its gutless with a 14" bar would never want to try it with a 16".

You may be right (above), on you're particular one, I got that size from here,--

https://www.toolstoday.co.uk/stihl-ms18 ... AqAC8P8HAQ
A 170 with a 14" bar, and I could agree with you, it being underpowered
The MS 181 is a good all round saw, Sounds like youre's may need looking at, if it can't drive a 14" guide and chain

Regards Rodders

 

[NazNomad]

I use an old brute of a Stihl that predates the chain-brake that we are 'nannied' with now. :-D

 

[doctor Bob]

Get a decent brand, I bought an Einhell cheap and it was rubbish. Now have a stihl 251 and it's the business.

 

[MikeJhn]

As you originally asked about cross cutting logs have you considered one of these: http://www.leroymerlin.fr/v3/p/produits ... -w-e165625 my chainsaw very rarely sees the light of day since getting one. they are available in the UK up to some quite substantial size's.

Mike

 

[heimlaga]

Out there in the sticks a CHAINSAW means Husqvarna or Stihl. Everybody have lots of opininons over which one is better. Husqvarna tend to be more difficult to start but more reliable once running. Stihl tend to be easier to start but more prone to disturbances of various kinds. I would conclude that both brands are equally good.
Old men especially those with weakened hearts tend to prefere Stihl as they tend to be easier to start. Strong men tend to prefere Husqvarna.

Then there are chansaw pretenders. Those are Jonsered and Sachs-Dolmar. They are good enough for many users and many uses but not quite up to professional standards.

Then there are saw shaped objects that cannot even pretend. That is everything else. Partner and McCullogh and Stiga and Makita and all those nameless Chineese things.

 

[duncanh]

For converting logs at home I prefer to have an electric saw as it disturbs the neighbours less and I can safely use it in the shed if I need to adjust a badly out of balance piece once it's already mounted. These days I use an Aldi electric one with a 14" bar. It's fairly basic and the tension adjuster is a bit of a weak point but it does the job. It's not great at cutting lengthways.
I also have a Stihl MS180 with 12" bar for when I want to deal with wood away from home. It's ok but a little under powered and struggles to cut lengthways.

I also access to Stihl MS261 at work - they're ok but have new fangled 'computer control' in them so if timing etc need adjusting you have to take them to the dealer. I guess it at least encourages you to get them serviced regularly.

We also have several Husqvarna saws at work but I tend to go for the Stihls as that's what I was trained on and am used to. The Huskies are old and reliable and run well. They tend to have slightly less kick and vibration.


I have a home made wooden saw horse but I can't remember the last time I used it. I prefer to place whatever I'm cutting on the ground on a piece of scrap wood, supported by wedges from my previous cutting. The wood I'm cutting is often large and heavy and if it was on a sawhorse that's a lot of weight to suddenly drop onto the floor. It's also easier to cut lengthways on the ground because my bar length often means I have to cut from both ends and it's easier to adjust if the log isn't on a saw horse.

 

[Jamie Copeland]

Hi folks

Thanks for the replies.

Having taken into consideration your comments and the online reviews I've decided to buy the Husqarna 135 petrol chainsaw with a 16" bar which is the maximum recommended bar size for this model.

It's being sold new online for just under £200.

I'll definitely be getting a saw horse as it seems a safer way of cross cutting timber.

Cheers

Jamie

 

[Wuffles]

This is the thing I was trying to describe - first link that came up in a search, possible cheaper elsewhere, but this looks like the one. http://www.treeandgrass.co.uk/log-saw-h ... 1546-p.asp

 

[ghettoblaster]

Echo are worth a look, Makita bought Dolmar and their saws are well spoken of. Personally use Stihl pro saws but they are probably overkill for you.
Or if you're half able to fix stuff buy a second hand Stihl or Husky and a workshop manual and learn how to maintain the thing, will save you a packet in the long run.

 

[biskit]

I have an old Stihl I bought off the chap that used to repair my stone cutting Stihl saw. If you search out old guys that repair petrol/electric tools they usually have gear lying around or know of stuff. That's what I did. :roll:

 

[blackrodd]

For converting logs at home I prefer to have an electric saw as it disturbs the neighbours less and I can safely use it in the shed if I need to adjust a badly out of balance piece once it's already mounted. These days I use an Aldi electric one with a 14" bar. It's fairly basic and the tension adjuster is a bit of a weak point but it does the job. It's not great at cutting lengthways.
I also have a Stihl MS180 with 12" bar for when I want to deal with wood away from home. It's ok but a little under powered and struggles to cut lengthways.

I also access to Stihl MS261 at work - they're ok but have new fangled 'computer control' in them so if timing etc need adjusting you have to take them to the dealer. I guess it at least encourages you to get them serviced regularly.

We also have several Husqvarna saws at work but I tend to go for the Stihls as that's what I was trained on and am used to. The Huskies are old and reliable and run well. They tend to have slightly less kick and vibration.


I have a home made wooden saw horse but I can't remember the last time I used it. I prefer to place whatever I'm cutting on the ground on a piece of scrap wood, supported by wedges from my previous cutting. The wood I'm cutting is often large and heavy and if it was on a sawhorse that's a lot of weight to suddenly drop onto the floor. It's also easier to cut lengthways on the ground because my bar length often means I have to cut from both ends and it's easier to adjust if the log isn't on a saw horse.

Have you fitted a ripping chain to the above saw? One chain won't do both ripping and x cuts.
A standard chain, rounded teeth is for cross cutting and will struggle with ripping or cutting with the grain,
In the same way a chopsaw would struggle,
Here's a link below
http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticles/LT-16.shtml
Rodders

 

[Beau]

For converting logs at home I prefer to have an electric saw as it disturbs the neighbours less and I can safely use it in the shed if I need to adjust a badly out of balance piece once it's already mounted. These days I use an Aldi electric one with a 14" bar. It's fairly basic and the tension adjuster is a bit of a weak point but it does the job. It's not great at cutting lengthways.
I also have a Stihl MS180 with 12" bar for when I want to deal with wood away from home. It's ok but a little under powered and struggles to cut lengthways.

I also access to Stihl MS261 at work - they're ok but have new fangled 'computer control' in them so if timing etc need adjusting you have to take them to the dealer. I guess it at least encourages you to get them serviced regularly.

We also have several Husqvarna saws at work but I tend to go for the Stihls as that's what I was trained on and am used to. The Huskies are old and reliable and run well. They tend to have slightly less kick and vibration.


I have a home made wooden saw horse but I can't remember the last time I used it. I prefer to place whatever I'm cutting on the ground on a piece of scrap wood, supported by wedges from my previous cutting. The wood I'm cutting is often large and heavy and if it was on a sawhorse that's a lot of weight to suddenly drop onto the floor. It's also easier to cut lengthways on the ground because my bar length often means I have to cut from both ends and it's easier to adjust if the log isn't on a saw horse.

Have you fitted a ripping chain to the above saw? One chain won't do both ripping and x cuts.
A standard chain, rounded teeth is for cross cutting and will struggle with ripping or cutting with the grain,
In the same way a chopsaw would struggle,
Here's a link below
http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticles/LT-16.shtml
Rodders

If your cutting pieces to be later turned rip with the grain not against the end grain like you would have to when planking. It's known as noodling and is very quick and makes lovely long shavings but they can clogg the saw if not careful. Out with the saws today so will try and remember to take a couple of pictures to explain better.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Yes - it'll make chippings/shavings that'll clog your sprocket in a nanosecond.