Chainsaw Woes

[wizer]

Eh Up.

I bought an Axminster Electric Chainsaw last year. It was fine for the first couple of logs, then it started to labour. I tried sharpening the blade but it didn't seem to make a difference. So I ordered a new blade. For one reason or another I never got to put that blade on and try it. Today I needed to process all my log stock ready for moving house. I sawed through one small 4" log (crosscut) and it was fine. But on the next log it laboured and took ages to get through. I played around with the tension, checked the oil, cleaned it all out and even tried sharpening the new blade. No Joy.

So I dunno whatta do. I remember the 'new' blade came from eBay and was delivered in a jiffy bag, no branded packaging. Could it be that the 'new' blade was a lemon? Or is the saw a lemon?

 

[stevebuk]

maybe the user... :lol: :lol:

 

[wizer]

You might be right Steve. How can I make the saw cut?

 

[stevebuk]

i would have thought by buying another blade and seeing how it goes, if it still struggles its the saw.

 

[dennisk]

Did you try plugging it in?

 

[paulm]

What do you mean by the saw labouring Tom ?

Were you still getting decent shavings (for want of a better word) like at the start or were you getting more dust by the time it was labouring? Assuming of course you were getting decent shavings at the start ?

Or were you still getting shavings but the motor was struggling to drive the chain ?

Cheers, Paul

 

[devonwoody]

Green logs, dry logs, big logs, ?

Are you putting the log at a decent height and its held firmly or are you cutting at ground level?

 

[wizer]

I'm getting intermittent shavings but most of the time the chain is just skipping over the timber, not cutting. The chain and bar get very hot. There is a lot of oil being pushed out and getting gummed up inside.

I'm cutting at ground level with the green logs propped up on strips of pine. The saw is pretty much always level but tend to cut better when the top is angled up slightly. So the cut is at the start of the bar.

The first cuts where in the same manner and I got shavings throughout.

I do wonder about the chain tension. At first I couldn't work out how to tension it. Then I worked it out but it's pretty hit and miss. You have to push a knob in and turn. But the cogs don't easily engage.

 

[chris_d]

Reads like you may have the chain the wrong way around?

 

[wizer]

Yes I thought that, but it's definitely the right way around. The bar has a diagram and it matches. I'll take a pic later to be sure. But I triple checked this.

 

[devonwoody]

You state you have sawn at ground level, its only needs one touch of the blade to something that is not timber and the saw blade is usually buggered.
Change of angle would not help either.

 

[wizer]

I also stated that it was propped up on pine blocks. I'm 95% certain it hasn't touched the ground.

 

[dannykaye]

if it is on a block and you are cutting between supports it will bind and get hot...

 

[wizer]

Not if the block is under the cut.

 

[guyandzoe]

presume you are cross cutting? Ripping will test an electric saw.

If chain goes round at a good whip it should cut. That means either the chain is blunt - sharpen it properly - or you have indeed got it on the wrong way round.

With everything unplugged(!!) take a careful look at the chain. The chisel 'points' (the sharp bits) should face the motor when on the underside of the bar and away at the top.

The manual will tell you what cutter file you need to sharpen the blade (it a round thing) and you can get good file guides to help you with the right angles. Otherwise keep the file horizontal and the same angle that the 'chisel' is already. Give just 3-4 strokes per 'chisel' but make them all the same number of strokes or the saw will begin to wander.

This is a new chain but it might not have been set correctly at the factory. In front of each 'chisel' is a blunt 'point'. Its purpose is to limit the depth of cut. Your manual should give advice on what depth that should be but you can also buy good guides that will set it for you using a flat file. Ask the chap in the shop to give a demo or I bet theres some on the net (I have dial up only so cant look for you). As your chain wears and you sharpen it you must attend to these limiters. The chisels are angles back and get lower as you sharpen more and more and eventually one runs out of depth if the limiters arent cut back.

So, check chain orientation, sharpen at same angle, same number of strokes at each chisel and check the depth limiters and correct.

 

[wizer]

Thanks Guy. I just went down to the workshop to double check and the blade is definitely on the right way around. I have one of those Sthil files with the guide/jig thingy and sharpened each 'chisel' one way and then back the other, marking the first tooth I started with. Basically following advice I've seen on here a lot. My inkling is that the saw is either tensioned wrong or I've not sharpened the blade well enough.

I'm basically crosscutting logs of 6" diameter maximum. I did try ripping too, but I know to rip with the log on it's side, not down the end grain. The saw doesn't sound like it's loosing power, but maybe it is that.

Is it possible that the 2nd chain I bought was a lemon? i.e someone had cleaned up and sold a used/blunt blade? It was too long ago for me to check the integrity of the seller. I don't mind buying a new blade, but I'm not throwing good money after bad. If I am lucky enough to have a workshop when we move, I'll be investing in a proper Sthil or Husq

 

[Lons]

That's a bit of a puzzle Tom, seems unlikely you would have had 2 duff chains, especially the original supplied with the saw.

I used to have a smallish petrol Sthill and was in the middle of a job when it expired so had to hire a petrol Makita to finish the job. I was so impressed the I bought the same model and it's been well used for the past 5 years without problems.
Chain keeps it's edge well and I've had only 1 new chain 'cause I caught the soil and a stone which messed it up a bit

It might be worth taking it in to a local agriculture / tools supplier as they usually have a service workshop and they'll be able to give you the lowdown - just a thought!

cheers

bob

 

[wizer]

It might be worth taking it in to a local agriculture / tools supplier as they usually have a service workshop and they'll be able to give you the lowdown - just a thought!

That's a good idea actually.

I'm tempted to hire a petrol saw for a day, just to get this current load sorted. But it's about £60 for a day and it makes free wood suddenly very expensive, plus that could be £60 towards my own, good, saw.

But as you say, it would be worth me taking it to someone who knows what they're doing to get a professional opinion.

I'll let you know what happens.

 

[big soft moose]

If the worst comes to the worst tom I'll drive over with my big stihl - rather than have you down 60 quid and putting your back in jeopardy (your neighbours wont love us mind as the 361 makes a hell of a row), Id have to charge for my deisel but that would only be £15 notes or so

with regard to blade tension (with the saw unplugged) how far out of the slot in the bar can you pull the chain ? - it should be tight enough that you can just pull the chain up enough to see the underside guide tooth (the bit that rides in the slot) but not so loose you can pull this clear of the bar.

Otherwise i'd say you are hiting something and ******* your chain(s) - if you arent hitting the ground is it possible that there is a bit of metal inside one of the logs (Ive found alsorts of weird dung inside trees, including on one notable occasion a musket barrel)

 

[wizer]

Cheers Pete. The chain comes off the bar about 8-10mm. You can probably see 90% of the guide tooth. Thisis the manual for the saw if it helps any. The tensioning mechanism is really hit and miss.

I guess it's possible that the chain has blunted quickly. Maybe I'll have another go with the file.