Centre Marking Gauge

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Mr Ed

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Saw this on Tom Eastons blog today. Maybe not new to you wise men on here, but it was new to me and something I intend to copy.

center-mark-1.jpg


What a simple idea, intended for resawing mainly.

Cheers, Ed
 
I wonder how long the blade is and what it's made from? Nail?
 
It does look like a nail, I imagine you could sink in a circular blade on an axle that could also rotate by 360 degrees, thereby allowing a finer line to be cut but still in the centre
 
yes I think for general woodworking purposes it would need to be thinner/pointier
 
I made one a few days ago to center mark some poplar for resawing. I used a 3/4" square piece of oak a few inches long and two 8p nails for guide pins. For the marking pin I used the point of an inexpensive compass. The nails were cut so that they would only extend about 1/2 an inch out of the wood. The cut off nail ends were rounded to avoid marring the work piece. The holes for the nails and point were drilled a bit undersize for a good tight fit. I pressed the point in so it just barely poked through the wood. It took all of about 10 minutes to do. I did not shape the wood body at all but might make another that is a bit prettier. One problem is that it only marks up to about 1/2" or so from the end of the board. Other than that it worked great and left just a faint centered scratch.
 
EdSutton":3d7mxhry said:
Saw this on Tom Eastons blog today. Maybe not new to you wise men on here, but it was new to me and something I intend to copy.

center-mark-1.jpg


What a simple idea, intended for resawing mainly.

Cheers, Ed

A very slightly more complex example of this principle, but more usefu, since it solves a more difficult problem, is the aeons proved "spar gauge"

http://www.amateurboatbuilding.com/arti ... spars.html

BugBear
 
I use a pencil, guided by my fingers and centered from both sides - very quick, easy and accurate enough :)

Rod
 
Hi,

I do the pencil and finger trick my self, its good to see just how close you get to the middle first time.

Pete
 
The problem is that it doesn't work on short stock and it can't scribe right up to the end of the piece, there is a much better way but I can't reveal it just yet...

Aidan
 
Both the centre gauge and spar gauge have a property which none of the alternative (to my knowledge) have. They operate nicely on tapering workpieces. They simply centre continuously as they go...

BugBear
 
Sorry BB, though I often see this touted it just isn't true. They don't work with tapered stock - when I find where I've put my phone I'll put up a pic.

Here we go:
Centremarkinggauge.jpg

Not a very good pic, but the scribe lines from holding the gauge with first the nearside fence trailing, and then the farside clearly show the point.

Cheers
Steve
 
dunbarhamlin":zj5r271s said:
Sorry BB, though I often see this touted it just isn't true. They don't work with tapered stock - when I find where I've put my phone I'll put up a pic.

Agreed - for steeply tapered stock it doesn't hold true; the error is pretty much proportional to the degree of taper.

However, for spars and masts (see picture earlier) the taper is such that the tool works well.

BugBear
 
Green":3m6dwcii said:
I thought these tools were common. I used them all the time as a coachbuilder.

You were a coachbuilder?!? I thought that trade died out in the 30's !

Coachbuilders (according to old catalogues and/or Salamans dictionary) used all manner of "interesting" tools.

BugBear
 
I was but the company folded a year after my apprenticeship ended (victim of the 90's recession?) and there was no-where else within sensible travelling distance to carry on working in the trade.

We used to make and fit out all manner of one-off vehicles from the chassis up. Was a very interesting job.
 
bugbear":w7j66gjz said:
Agreed - for steeply tapered stock it doesn't hold true; the error is pretty much proportional to the degree of taper.
Yes, that's why I used an extreme taper to make it obvious.

For setting out masts, it would just make the guide lines lazilly hellical and a bit shy at the thin end. Since the error increases the greater the difference between pin separation and stock width, wonder if they use several over a long length?

Where accuracy is required, there is an alternative using two circular discs, each with two pins at opposite ends of a diameter, slotted along a radius at a common angle to said diameter with a scribe in intersection between the two discs slots.
Again, this is limited to symmetrical tapers, though they needn't be linear.
 
dunbarhamlin":1b4yjq13 said:
Where accuracy is required, there is an alternative using two circular discs, each with two pins at opposite ends of a diameter, slotted along a radius at a common angle to said diameter with a scribe in intersection between the two discs slots.
Again, this is limited to symmetrical tapers, though they needn't be linear.

You're gonna have do me a diagram or photo of that - my visualisation is failing me :-(

BugBear
 

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