Carter Bandsaw blade stabilizer?

[timber]

Just wondering how the Carter type guides are working and if anyone uses them very often.
I know Alexam has one and I also believe Woodpig made one. Are they working satisfactory. I have the Record 350s bandsaw , just thought to put the 1/8 blade on it??????!!!!
Thanks

 

[Alexam]

The one I have works very well indeed and I use it quite regularly when making my boxes. However, I used a 1/4" blade from Tuffsaw for some time before ordering mine and I would suggest that others do likewise first of all and not just order this for the sake of it. It will cut tighter turns than the 1/4", but only a little tighter and it is expensive.

I now have the nack of being able to switch from the Stabilizer to the original guides and back again without much difficulty and can quickly tune to the Alex Snodgrass method shown on the Carter video .... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU.

It is important to take the time to ensure that the blade is running in the corrct position on the upper wheel, which will differ according to the guides used and the wider blades with the original guides. The few extra minutes taken in doing this will ensure that problems do not occur when cutting the timber.

Anyone is welcome to visit me any time if they would like to see the set-ups, or to call me if they have any questions or queries, particularly if they intend ordering from the USA, since the Carter Stabilizer is not a 'fit all' unit, so unless it is one that has been established to fit a particular bandsaw, you need to be very careful.

I believe that there are a few more people with the Carter Stabilizer now, but Vic, (woodpig), has managed to make the same type of one bearing stabilizer as well as improved orinary guides. I do wish I had his expertise as his results are superb.

Alex

 

[woodpig]

I've only really had time to do a quick test with my home made version but it seems to work fine. Longevity of the bearing is the only issue that springs to mind as although plain bearings for bandsaws are very cheap the one with the circlip groove that I chose was about £7 either inc or plus postage, I can't remember! With my version I think you could even go down to a 1/16" blade if you're brave!

 

[Steve Maskery]

I have no experience of the Carter, but on the rare occasion that I need to use narrow blades (down to 1/16" for dovetails, for example) I simply use DS tape to stick a disc of thin MDF on to my standard side-mounted bearings. They are set to touch the blade, but, being MDF, cause no damage to the blade itself. The teeth of the blade cut into the MDF, but only so far as to clear the set of the teeth. Thereafter, the whole blade is supported.

I have no idea if the Carter product is better than mine in some respect, it might be, I don't know, but I do know that mine works perfectly well and the cost is approximately zero.

 

[Alexam]

I believe that Steve's method works very well and will support a small blade sufficiently. The difference with the Carter Stabilizer is that the blade is only supported at the back of the blade in a slot on the bearing wheel and not the sides, allowing the teeth to twist from side to side and produce a smaller turning circle than with the normal guides.

Unless someone needs much tighter turns on a regular basis, then the cost of buying from the USA can be saved and Steve's method adopted for the occassional use. His DVD shows you how and is well worth buying.

Alex

 

[Steve Maskery]

The difference with the Carter Stabilizer is that the blade is only supported at the back of the blade in a slot on the bearing wheel and not the sides, allowing the teeth to twist from side to side and produce a smaller turning circle than with the normal guides.

Ah, I see. That sounds identical to the little Inca machines. My friend Brian has one (the Inca machines are built back-to-front, column on the right) and it does the same job, so I know the sort of thing you are describing. The Incas are small but superb engineering, actually.

If I were trying to do very tight curves, I'd probably increase the thickness of the MDF disks maybe fitting 6mm ones rather than the 2mm ones I'd normally use for straight dovetail cuts. That way, as the blade twists with the cut the kerf would be enlarged a bit, but essentially the blade would still be properly supported.

I'll try it next time I set it up that way.

 

[Alexam]

That's a good idea Steve, let us know what happens. The only thing I can think of that may happen is the blade may loose any support at all if it can twist in the MDF without any stabilisation that is given by having the back of the blade held in place, as with the Carter stabilizer.

Anyway, it would be good to find out if it will work with thicker MDF and save a few people lots of dosh. It would also be good to video it if it turns out well, to add to your excellent work already on the DVD's.

Alex

 

[woodpig]

As Alex says the whole point of Carter's design is that the blade is only supported at the back so it can twist. The only way of doing this is to have a slotted rear bearing. Replicating the Carter is probably the easiest bandsaw guide to make once you have a suitable bearing.

 

[Claymore]

........

 

[Steve Maskery]

Brian, just how tight a curve are you trying to cut please?

 

[woodpig]

If you look at this clip Brian you can actually see the blade twisting as the cut is made.

http://youtu.be/5EexhzUmXL4

What model Bandsaw do you have?

 

[woodpig]

I've just chosen one of Axminsters current Hobby bandsaws at random to have a look at.

http://www.axminster.co.uk/media/downlo ... manual.pdf

On this particular model it looks like all you'd need to do is replace the top thrust bearing with a grooved version? All the other guides need to be removed as per the Carter instructions. Just a thought.

 

[Claymore]

.........

 

[Steve Maskery]

Brian
Please post your picture the right way up! I've got a crick in my neck!

It's difficult to get the exact scale of it, but I would say that the curves on the middle, Paisley-pattern bits is the extreme limit of a 1/4" blade. Certainly the pointy tails bit is beyond a 1/4".

 

[Claymore]

......

 

[Steve Maskery]

I think you are testing the limits of 1/4". Try 1/8" and see if that is better.

I have a 1/16" blade, but I use it for straight cuts for dovetails, not for curved cuts. I don't do that sort of work (but
perhaps I should).

 

[Alexam]

Steve, " ( Certainly the pointy tails bit is beyond a 1/4".) "

Those pointy tails are cut from two directions by cutting one way, then reversing out and cutting the other way. The 1/4" blade will cut that design quite comfortably ands the 1/8" blade would not really be needed for that.

Alex

 

[Claymore]

........

 

[Alexam]

I'm sure the 1/4" blade will be the minimum Brian but you can do lots with that size and do you really need a smaller one?.

When I started using the BS400 bandsaw, I had some difficulty as I was not competly sure of the setting up and often had to discard work because the cut was out of line or the blade was slipping. I had watched several videos about how to tune the bandsaw and each one is slghtly different and the fact that the blade tension can affect matters and there was always talk about co-planar.

When I eventualy saw the video that Carter Industries put out, that again was sightly different and lot of emphasis on the blade tension and position on the top wheel and that co-planar does not matter, according to Alex Snodgrass. I must have watched it a dozen times to fully understand how it worked, but eventually it 'clicked' and the problems dissapeared.

It wasn't until a few months later that I got more intrested in the smaller blade and the Stabilizer, but the bandsaw was running well and that may be where you are getting problems with your bandsaw Brian. Get that right first, because if you don't, then another type of guide is not really going to help.

Good luck with it. That is a great box you have made with your scrollsaw.

Alex

 

[woodaxed]

Brian i looked at the pic of the bandsaw box you made and you wont get a 1/4" blade around that curve tightest curve for a 1/4" blade is 1 1/2" dia and thats with a new blade and pushing it after a few cuts that tight you will blunt the blade and probably scorch the wood.
Ive been making bandsaw boxes for something like 25 years and only use a 1/4" blade for cutting the backs off the drawers etc i looked at the spec for your bandsaw it says 1/4" minimum which i would ignore providing you can get the rear bearing far enough forward you should be able to run a 1/8" blade on it without having to buy an unnecessary gimmick like the carter stabilizer, you only need the very back edge of the blade between the side guides you dont need to keep then tight to the sides of the blade the other thing i do is have the tension higher than normal for a 1/8" blade just remember to slacken it off at the end of the day.
Ive got to go to axminster on monday and will have a look at the model you have to see how far the rear bearing can be moved forward.

the blades i use are thin gauge carbon flexback 1/8" x 0.018" x 14 reg raker from Dakin-Flathers Ltd Tel: +44 (0) 1977 705 600
you cannot order direct from them but have to order through a distributor but if you phone or email them they will be able to tell you your nearest
distributor.

hth

i have no affiliation with Dakins