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Pete W":1380cyqp said:
Did you make the stone holders? Are they a box-like construction, or hollowed from a solid piece? Do the stones simply sit in the hollow, or is there a holding mechanism of some kind?

Thanks for any info.

The two light colour boxes came with the stones but I made the dark one (the stone was less expensive buying it without a box). They are all made the same way - solid wood hollowed out with a router. They have lids made the same way. The stones just sit in the hollowed out piece but they are a good fit. I varnished them with polyurethane varnish (I think I used the Liberon one) which has made them resistant to oil - there's usually a small amount of oil sitting in the bottom of the boxes and it hasn't soaked past the varnish yet.

The DMT boxes have four small rubber feet which stop them sliding about but I didn't bother with them on the one I made - if you look at the picture you will see that I have a piece of wood screwed to some chipboard which the boxes press against, so they don't move about.

I need to do a re-design of the box with the extra-fine stone. I now use a Veritas Mk2 honing guide and have to take the stone out of the box when wiping the wire edge off the blade with the blade still in the guide - still thinking how best to do that, or maybe I won't bother :-k

Cheers :wink:

Paul
 
Harbo":289nu3su said:
I use a small water sprayer, after use wash in clean water and if necessary give them a scrub with a brush. Dab dry with kitchen towel and hang somewhere to dry - no rust!
No messy :D smelly liquids.

Chisel - I don't think using water is " a lot of unnecessary fuss and over analysing ".

Rod

Didn't want to leave people that haven't tried them with the impression Rod that you had to keep washing them, scrubbing with brushes, carefully drying them etc, they are in reality pretty much indestructable.

Quick and easy to use and no mess or fussing when used with a light oil, works great, really don't tend to get any significant mess or oil on my hands to be honest, but each to their own as always........

Cheers, Paul :D
 
I'd agree with Paul's analysis...they are pretty much indestructible and I don't mess about with them too much...a quick wipe over with and old T towel to clean them is all that's needed and I can't say that my hands get very dirty either. I think the lamp oil is one to try next when my smelly paraffin's all gone or I may try WD40. I saw a while back that Tesco do their own version which is much cheaper so I may give that a go as well - Rob
 
I too agree that they are pretty much indestructible but was really trying to explain if you use water, how to prevent rusting - not of the stone which is made of nickel on steel but of any remaining embedded iron particles.
Here's what DMT says - though I personally have never resorted to the cleansers:

How do I take care of my sharpener?

Clean your DMT® sharpener after each use with water and wipe dry. After several sharpenings, use a mild kitchen abrasive cleanser and a nylon scrub brush (an old toothbrush works well too). Comet, Ajax, and Zud work well. Make sure the sharpener is dry before putting it away.

I know it says to use the sharpener dry or with water, but can I use oil anyway? Can I store my DMT stone in kerosene?

While we recommend you use DMT® products dry or with water only, it is acceptable to use a variety of lubricants when sharpening with DMT® products. Mineral oil, mineral spirits, kerosene, WD40 can all be used without harming your DMT® sharpener. We do not recommend storing your DMT sharpener in kerosene. DMT® recommends that you always wipe your Diamond and Unbreakable Ceramic Sharpeners clean and store dry after use.

Rod
 
Place where I used to work had one and they used water but THEY didn`t look after it and it went rusty :roll: :roll:
Have always used mine dry and clean it of with an eraser....
 
toolsntat":1bapx96y said:
Have always used mine dry and clean it of with an eraser....
That seems a great idea!


As for the to much fuss and over-analysing: There is nothing wrong in trying a few things out you when you receive a new thing. Using water what the manufacturer recommend seems like a very sound recommendation giving you overal the most out of the product.

I can also see that using water (instead of an oil out of a can, especially when you don't have the convenience of running tap water in your shop or at the site) and cleaning your stones is overkill if you just use them to sharpen a plane iron of chisel once in a while.

For me personally its very important to get the best performance and easiest to clean since I repeatedly spend hours and days lapping, flattening backs and sharpening.
 
Hi Escudo,

I bought a DMT a long time back; the red one. :) (I reckon it must be more than 10 years ago.) It's still giving me good service. I have never used anything but water as a lubricant for the DMT, because that's what was advised by the makers. When I've finished using it, I wash it all over, with water and a trace of liquid soap. Then I dry it off properly with terry-towelling. (When SWIMBO throws the stuff out, I persuade her to aim in the direction of my workshop. It's great material for no end of jobs; even drying my hands!!!)

I should add, I use the DMT only for initial flattening of the backs of chisels and irons. I have used it for honing of course and it works fine. I just prefer the Japanese water stone because I find it puts a 'crown-bevel' on my plane irons with less bother. I keep a separate stone for chisels, btw and try to use all the surface evenly.

I'm not saying you shouldn't hone on your DMT's of course, so I hope this helps.
And don't 'worry-about-the-slurry'. That's what suspends the particles of metal, stops them damaging your edge and helps the stone cut.

:)

Regards
John
 
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