Byrons Official Workshop Build Thread

[mailee]

Just out of interest Byron my build cost me a total of just over £2000 that was including the Roof felt, insulation, electrics, double glazing, and alarm. I have not yet finished the inside cladding but this will be around another £200 I estimate.

 

[ByronBlack]

HI mailee, thanks for sharing costs, I estimated that mine would be somehting similar to your 2k mark onced insulated and boarded, sheet material seems so expensive these days compared to what it was a few years ago.

What did you use for the interior sheeting? I was thinking of using 12mm OSB as it's only £11 a sheet, compared to £18 a sheet for 3/4 shuttering ply

 

[lugo35]

thanks byron,i used osb not pretty but works fine. will use again on new shed. will have to price some sheeting and compare .

 

[Freetochat]

Byron - I went thin on the lining sheets and have regretted doing so. The few extra pounds is worth going for 18mm, just for convenience when wall fixing etc. Totally my lack of planning for future use.

 

[ByronBlack]

Hi Freetochat, I see your point, but I don't intend to have a lot of things attached to the walls, most of cabinetry will be free-standing. And the difference between £11 per sheet and £18 adds up to quite a lot when boarding out the whole workshop!

Day 9 Summary

What a day - currently i'm sitting here typing this trying to ignore the flaming pain in my lower back and hips - more about that later.

Staight to the pictures:

A couple of the frames complete:

With all the frames complete, and the cladding arriving, the garden is looking more and more like a wood yard:

Last frame being built in place ready for cladding:

After cladding is finished (Using the new rexon nail gun and compressor - excellent bit of kit, and was only £120 from screwfx) we thought we would just 'see how heavy it was ready for raising tomorrow' well, we got the frame half-way up and men being men decided to put some real effort in and get it all the way just for the fun of it - this is where I put my back out and pulled a muscle down my side by my hip, won't be doing that again in a hurry, we'll have more people for the raising tomorrow

And here I am standing proudly next to my first wall - the head room is going to be fantastic!

So, all in all it was a good day despite my injury. Tomorrow will see the left-hand frame being painted and raised along with the rest of the frames, I think i'll add the roof tomorrow aswell, and friday will mostly be cladding.

Uisng the nailgun today really speeded things up, the cladding was a joy to do, and it took only about 40mins to do the whole left hand frame, and this included cutting the extra pieces as the longest planks weren't long enough for the entire width.

So, my el-cheapo axminster SCMS and el-cheapo rexon compressor and nailgun, along with my el-cheapo performance pro cordless drill have more than stood up to the task of building the workshop - a good testament to cheap tools, albeit when absolute accuracy is not needed.

I'm knackered and a hot steamy bath is waiting to sooth my aching muscles.

 

[wizer]

what a nightmare Byron, I have been putting my build off because I quite severely put my back out. I'm now dreading starting it!!

Alls said, your making brilliant progress. It is looking really good.

Just watch that back tomorrow!

 

[mailee]

Hi Byron, Nice work mate. My internal cladding is just that, internal cladding. It was cheap stuff from 'No Frills' but is good enough. I do have to make sure i only hang things on the studs though and have marked them so I can find them in the future. I do suffer with my back too so had to be careful erecting the sides although I must say they are not as tall as yours. (Is that a Cathederal your building!?) I did also find the nail gun pretty handy and I cheated a little as I also used a framing nailer to put the framework together. Certainly made it a speedy job with that tool. your build is looking good and I am enjoying the read mate keep up the good work. :wink:

 

[JFC]

Byron , i know its obvious but dont forget to overhang your cladding to meet the side walls and allow for a 2x1 fillet to hide any expansion /contraction of the cladding .
Just thought id say it before you made another wall
Looking good mate !

 

[ByronBlack]

Hi JFC

I've taken that into consideration (regarding the over-hang), once the front and back frame are up, the cladding should extend from left to right completely, overlapping the side frames - however, I initially didn't think of this until my dad kindly reminded me earlier today

 

[SketchUp Guru]

It's looking good, sir. Take it easy on your back though. You've still got a way to go.

Since you are using wood for the cladding, you might want to give some consideration to the corners and the exposed end grain. This could be a problem area and might allow rot to start. this would be especially bad on the wall near the fence since you can't easily get to it to repair it. Here's one option--I don't know what your cladding looks like so I just took a guess.

Keep up the good work.

Dave

 

[devonwoody]

Byron,
Thankfully you are on the east coast and not the western side of UK today :roll:
But I would still be prepared for some wind.

 

[Inspector]

On the day 9 summery, 4th picture down, with the caption,

And here I am standing proudly next to my first wall - the head room is going to be fantastic!

After High School (back in the olden days when there was no such thing as OSB, only plywood) I worked on a small framing crew for about 6-8 months building houses and I don't ever remember seeing a wall done like yours. I noticed your wall has the studs with the second bay from each end spaced closer to each other than most of the other bays. Can I ask why?

Thanks.

 

[Jake]

I would have put a membrane - preferably breathable - behind the cladding. It isn't going to be 100% waterproof because of all the little gaps.

 

[WellsWood]

Looking good, Byron

I would have put a membrane - preferably breathable - behind the cladding. It isn't going to be 100% waterproof because of all the little gaps.

I'd echo this sentiment though. At my daughters school we have a large shed for the PTA that is clad with shiplap, and we have a serious problem with weather ingress because of the gaps caused by shrinkage now it is a few years old. You may be able to ignore the wall thats built (and just put it on the others) depending on which way it's facing - SW facing will bear the biggest brunt of the weather.

Make sure you get LOADS of preservative on the lower part (at least) of that wall by the fence - it's going to be difficult to get to once erected. Also it looks to be the shady side so will dry out more slowly, good conditions for rot to set in.

Keep at it, you're doing relly well. Can't wait to see the finished project, MAN I envy that headroom!
Mark

 

[NickWelford]

Make sure you get LOADS of preservative on the lower part (at least) of that wall by the fence - it's going to be difficult to get to once erected. Also it looks to be the shady side so will dry out more slowly, good conditions for rot to set in.

Mark

and you could get a spray can for that nice new compressor and have it done in a jiffy!

 

[ByronBlack]

Devonwoody - I can see what you mean, we have got quite some blustery winds at the moment, hopefully it'll die down by the time I come to raise the frames!

Inspector - the reason why there are a couple of extra uprights in the frame closer to each other at each end, is because that is where the small section of shiplap reaches - the longest piece I could buy wouldn't reach the entire length of the frame and I needed an extra couple of studs to allow me to join the two pieces of shiplap.

Jake - wish you could have told me that before I put the cladding on, not much I can do about it now i'm afraid other than add it to the others

MarkW - Thanks for the words of encouragement, trust me, we are putting a lot of preserver on the wood at the base!

NickWelford - not a bad idea with the spraygun, not sure I can source one locally in time (for friday), although screwfix do a quick delivery service... i'll have to think about that.

 

[ByronBlack]

Can anyone link me to a suitable membrane to put on the frames before cladding? I've had a look around, but I don't really know what i'm looking for!

Would something like this work: http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?cId=101254&ts=36070&id=67489

 

[Anonymous]

Argos do a kit for compressor

koolwabbit

 

[Jake]

Jake - wish you could have told me that before I put the cladding on, not much I can do about it now i'm afraid other than add it to the others

Sorry, bad timing... I was away for most this thread, that's my excuse.

This is the best sort to use: http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro ... 0&ts=36533. It's more pricey but it will avoid condensation forming on the inside of the membrane and running down to potentially rot the framing timbers.

On the one you've already clad, you could run it over the top of the insides of the joists, stapling it so it runs like this:

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If that makes sense. It isn't quite so good in that it won't be protecting the studding, but at least it will keep the insulation/wall linings dry. The framing will be ventilated through the cladding so should be OK - give it some preservative on that wall maybe. And stick that wall on the sheltered side as Mark suggested.

 

[Adam]

I've bought Tyvek Housewrap for mine 100m cost £127 from Travis Perkins

See here http://www.ebuild.com/building/EB/tyvek-housewrap.asp

Adam