Well I got to thinking about this scenario, and I think there is an easy way to do it without using mortar/ screwed fixing's into the floor etc.
I'd still use 2 wall plate's attached to the walls either side, but taper them to allow for the 3 inch drop (seems like a hell of a slope but maybe the garage is extra long as well as wide?. So they would be 4 inch deep at the down end and 1 inch deep at the up end. This gives room for at least some insulation at the thin end and also something to fix the deck to, with minimum loss of ceiling height. So if the garage is say 19 foot long, I'd get a 19 foot 5x2 (I would have to scarf 2 together probably to get the length and mark out so as to get 2 firring pieces from the one scarfed board). Then rawlbolt them to the opposite wall's, use a water level or lazer to ensure they are absolutely level along their length and also across ways to each other, they should be resting on the floor (with a dpm under). Then I'd obtain the width between the taper'd wall plates, the walls are unlikely to be spot on parallel. Cut 4x2 joists to length, then drop the first one in on a dpm resting on the concrete, and skew nail it to the wall plates. Then keep working up hill at 400 mm centres, drop the joist in, mark off for height from the 2 wall plates, join the 2 marks with a chalk line, rip off with circular saw, drop in onto dpm, skew nail to plate's etc etc. If theres excessive crowning or valleying in the concrete you might need a tempoary wedge to stop the joist rocking as you mark the heights off the 2 wall plate's. As you travel uphill the offcut's get wider and you can use them on the thinner levels towards the top. I wouldnt bother with strutting (herringbone would be too deep anyway) as the joists are resting on the floor and nailed at their ends so they arent going to be able to deflect too much, and as OLD sudgested a 22 mm t&g deck will stiffen everything up nicely anyway
The only scarring would be the rawlbolt hole's in the wall which you could easily repair with a spot of mortar. Mind you I do think is it really worth the hassle, especially if it alters levels for doors etc?
Just another thought, hope it helps :lol: