Breakfront Wardrobe

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jasonB

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I remembered to take my camera with me today when I went back to do a little extra job so got a few shots of this wardrobe that I finished a week or so ago.

MarieAnge4-1.jpg


The client wanted a fairly minimal look but something that would fit in with the 100yr old property. I went for a simple shaker style door and a plain cornice. To break up the long (3.90m) expance of doors I incorporated a breakfront, the original design was going to have draws in the lower half of the ctr section but the client wanted all hanging space.

MarieAnge5-1.jpg


MarieAnge6-1.jpg


The doors were from 22mm MR MDF with 9mm for the panels, face frames are 44x80 finish size tulipwood and the carcases from 18mm beech effect MFC (8mm white backs) It took a total of 24sheets 8x4 & 9x4 totalling just over 1/3 tonne all of which had to be carried up the twisty old back servants staircase. Finish is Dulux "lilac white" oil based eggshell. Lights to all doors with auto switches.

MarieAnge7-1.jpg


There was an existing built in wardrobe in the cornes so this end was made into a walk-in wardrobe with shelving to the sides and hanging at the rear (client still sorting out what to put where)

Quite a satisfying job though the painting got a bit boring at the end, now talking to the client about the possibility of making a bed & bedroom furniture :D

Jason
 
That looks beautiful Jason! I am impressed with what you have done with MDF mate. Did you spray the colour or use a brush?
 
Paint was applied with a 4" foam roller then layed off with a brush.

Jason
 
As always Jason, I am stypefied by your work.
:shock: =D>

No wonder your customers want more... :wink:
 
Love it Jason, It blends into the room perfectly. This is just what I am planning to do in our spare room (if on a much smaller scale).

What is the hardware on the inside of the door? Looks like a rail for ties?

Can you explain a bit more about how you make the face frame? Are the hinges mounted on this? What sort of joinery was used? ...and how do you build it into the room, i.e how do you fix it to the walls\ceiling? I'm just trying to get my head around how it goes together. My initial idea was to make a carcass much like a kitchen cabinet, what advantages does the face-frame method have ?

Sorry for so many questions
 
Nice job and done well !
When you mentioned the weight of all of your materials it made me think back to my fitted robes i used to do with redwood. It wasn't until i started to use canadian that i appreceated the difference in weight. Not so important in the workshop but when you have to lug it upstairs the redwood feels so much heavier.
Graham
 
Very nice ! I like the idea of using faced MDF inside and just painting the face . Do you find you get problems with marks in cutting and transit etc ?
I remember from another thread you rebate your doors and use a foreign piece of timber as your tenon , is this how these doors are made or have you invested in the Fraud door making set ?
 
My 8mb broadband is playing up so will reply when I can post a long reply without loosing it.

Jason
 
Brilliant.. I love it! :D


I'd also love to have some details on how it was done... i.e in what order etc?


Did you build carcases for example and do much of the work on the faceframe in the house? How is the breakfront done is such a way that it looks absolutely flawless?

How was the cornicing attached at the top? Is it glued? or nailed, then filled and touched up? or some other method? Also how are the very small peices cut safely? and in such a way that they mate up so nicely?

Did you use auto light switches from a furniture fittings company like Hafele? or would you buy micro switches from an electrical type company?

Are there any books you could recommend that describe in detail how work to this standard is carried out? (Well obviously the high standard is achieved through skill and experience :) , but are there any books that describe in a step by step manner how it could be done?)

Fantastic job, you'd be mad not to get photographs of this type of work, future clients will be left in no doubt as to the expected standard.. i.e highest.

Cheers
Joe
 
Its been about a year since I did that one so can't recall all the details but here goes.

Joe90":37rmf8t6 said:
Brilliant.. I love it! :D

Did you build carcases for example and do much of the work on the faceframe in the house? How is the breakfront done is such a way that it looks absolutely flawless?

Carcases were all built in the workshop in "flat pack" form for transportation and to get them up the tight stairs. Brealfront is just a deeper carcase. 5 carcases in total, 2 main wardrobes and 3 top ones all built as "boxes" set on a 38x63 CLS frame. The faceframe was fixed to the carcases on site and just needed a little filler of a few screw holes before painting.

Joe90":37rmf8t6 said:
How was the cornicing attached at the top? Is it glued? or nailed, then filled and touched up? or some other method? Also how are the very small peices cut safely? and in such a way that they mate up so nicely?

Cornice was glued & pinned to the faceframe with solvent free gripfill between cornice and ceiling, painters mate to finish off ceiling/cornice joint. Epoxy wood filler in any gaps in the mitres (not that I can remember any :wink: ) Cut the small bits off the end of a longer length that way you have something decent to hold without your hands getting too close to the blade.

Joe90":37rmf8t6 said:
Did you use auto light switches from a furniture fittings company like Hafele? or would you buy micro switches from an electrical type company?

these

Joe90":37rmf8t6 said:
Are there any books you could recommend that describe in detail how work to this standard is carried out? (Well obviously the high standard is achieved through skill and experience :) , but are there any books that describe in a step by step manner how it could be done?)

No specific books that I have got just picked it up as I went along, No carpentry training unless you include O level woodwork.

Jason
 

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