Bow saw

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MikeG.

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I just made myself a bow saw. I've wanted one for a while, because I've found it an almighty faff to change blades in the bandsaw just to cut a curve or two. By the time I've done that and set everything up again properly, I'd have finished the job with a bow saw. So I pulled a couple of bits of scrap pine out of my scrap bin and made this:

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I have since put the same finish on the knobs as on the rest of the saw. I guess the whole thing took 3 or 4 hours, and was all made up in the workshop. No drawings or anything. I cut up a 6mm bandsaw blade , which is held by a pin through a slot in a bit of 10mm mild steel rod at each end.

The only thing is I am not sure if I have possibly made it a bit too big. It's about 380mm in blade length. How does this compare with what you guys have?
 
I made mine 300mm, it will accept a hacksaw blade or a homemade one. I don't use bandsaw blade because I don't have a bandsaw, and read some reports that they are a bit "grabby". Instead I hand file my own. Yes, I am a bit of a luddite.

I think you cut up bigger bits of wood than me, so maybe you have it right.
 
It's just I found it quite difficult to use the full length of the blade. It is certainly well enough tensioned, but there's no point having 380mm if you only use 250mm, and there's the extra weight to manouevre.

I'm also just bit annoyed that 3 sticks of wood and a bit of string can tension a bandsaw blade better than my bandsaw can, but that's another matter.
 
But why do you not find yourself using the whole saw ? Would it be easier with a different grip ? I notice you have two round knobs, whereas most saws have one longer handle, held like a gent's saw with the index finger extended, resting on the side of the frame.
 
I think those type have a fixed (broad) blade. This type has a blade which can rotate through 360 degrees in the manner of a coping saw, so gripping the knob/ handle would be pointless (it would just turn). I think I was only using part of the blade possibly because I was attempting curves of too tight a radius. Curves that should be left for a coping saw. This is more suited to long sweeping curves, really.......think bandsaw rather than fretsaw.
 
I made one at school in 1969. I copied a commercially made one (Marples?) and it had one knob and one long handle. I did much the same but I used long large gauge brass screws - I drilled the pin hole in a metal vice, screwed the screws into the handles (pre bored, obviously) then sawed the heads off the screws and tidied the cuts up. I would think for full control you'd need the long handle.

It was Marples - https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/142714852960?chn=ps
 
I'll give that a shot. Good job I left enough guts around the holes, then. (I'd always assumed the handle was just to tell you which end of the frame to hold, to cut on the pull or the push).

I've just seen Saint Paul's video of his saw, and he has no knobs on it at all, just using the frame as a handle.
 
Nice one Mike. Eminently practical.
Framed saws go back at least as far as the Romans. From my own reading and YouTube viewing I know they have been used throughout most of continental Europe including Scandinavia; Russia, China and South East Asia. A glance at a French or German supplier will confirm that they are alive and well.

So it's clear that there are framed saws in all sizes, suited to the size of timber and the job in hand, alongside a craft tradition in the manner of using them effectively.
Perhaps it's the familiar "Western" style push saw - which is much harder to make - which is the odd anomaly!
 
My thoughts on the frame saw handle. A saw has to be small and light to saw using only the handle. Where I have found the handle useful, is when sawing vertically. One hand on the frame and the other hand on the handle.

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Nice saw Mike!
My own was originally 12" but I changed it to 18". I find myself using the frame as the handle, perhaps my 'long knob' needs to be longer.
On the bandsaw blades, I agree with the grabby bit. Down to the hook tooth. I found a solution, file the points off, that's the bit that does the work after all. If the blade is hardened, most seem to be, then use those Aldi/Lidl diamond needle files, you don't need a big front surface to the tooth after all.
How did you drill the 6mm blade Mike, I haven't managed that just yet?
I think is was on this forum that I found reference to a Scroll Bandsaw. Pegas it was, now the blade can be around 3mm, that must be around coping saw size. Just maybe I'll treat myself to a blade later in the year.
https://www.cremonatools.com/pegas-scro ... -6448.html
xy
 
xy mosian":2arp13ve said:
Nice saw Mike!
Thanks.
........How did you drill the 6mm blade Mike, I haven't managed that just yet?.......
It actually couldn't have been easier. I expected a battle, but it was the work of a second on the drill press. I think the hole is 2 or 2.5mm diameter. I did have to flatten a few teeth in the area in order to slide the blade into the hacksaw kerf I'd cut in the steel shaft, so the blade was sitting pretty flat on a piece of scrap when I drilled the holes.
 
MikeG.":2x4c8az3 said:
Oven squirrel? :D :?:
Goes well with oven chips and a dollop of ketchup on the side. Brown sauce is an option, but better for more 'gamey' dishes, like oven chipmunk.

I can't believe you knocked that up in 4 hours!!
 
Tasky":30kvns0z said:
......I can't believe you knocked that up in 4 hours!!

That did involve 2 evenings, though, because the Araldite had to dry. Really, it's just 2 simple joints and some spokeshave work.
 
knockknock":25c5kfwf said:
For pulling (behind ears) and pushing (between front leg and chin) oven racks (the tail is the handle). :D
For reals?
That's genius!! =D>
 
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