Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:
Denny
Go to the thread "Anyone ordering from screwfix" towards the end you will see the answer to your question.
Go to the thread "Anyone ordering from screwfix" towards the end you will see the answer to your question.
Alternatively if you take a look at the Blum wesite they have a full catalogue at http://www.blum.co.uk/img/pdf/Scharniere/KA070_EN_Scharn_CLPtop.pdf with all the relevant drilling centres, offsets, etc.
Scrit
Scrit
dennyk":lb9l3syc said:
Works for me. You could try right clicking on the link and doing as "save file as". Then opening in adobe acrobat viewer.
Alternatively, maybe your adobe acrobat is out of date? Time to check for upgrades?
Adam
dennyk":wowkrk9e said:
I'm running 7.0. So looks like you should upgrade when you get a moment?
I think its to do with the way that the version interact with Internet Explorer, rather than the actual version as such.
Adam
orangetlh
Established Member
as jason said, i just use a piece of mdf with a stop glued on one edge. Standard size is 37mm in from front edge and 32mm between centres. I have 2 holes drilled along the centre line so i can mark a centre line on the carcase and then line it up through the holes.
Wanlock Dod
Established Member
Jason - presumably this one is for the hole in the door?
Orange - and yours is for the screw holes in the cabinet?
Or am I missing something?
Cheers, Dod
Orange - and yours is for the screw holes in the cabinet?
Or am I missing something?
Cheers, Dod
No your are not missing anything, mine is for the door hole the other will be for the mounting plate, I have another little homemade jig for the plates just like orange describes.
Off out in a moment but will take a pic for you.
Jason
Off out in a moment but will take a pic for you.
Jason
Hi Dod
Welcome to the forum.
Welcome to the forum.
orangetlh
Established Member
ahh sorry, i thought it was for the base plates. The hinges are slightly more difficult. It all depends on how much you want the doors to overhang the carcase. I will try and scan a graph to show you what distance you need. Generally for blum hinges on a full overlay hinge i drill the hole so the edge is 4.5mm from the edge of the door. But you might have to do a test piece. I have seen a jig for sale with axminster but wether or not it allows you to adjust the distance i dont know.
http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp? ... e=1&jump=0
http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp? ... e=1&jump=0
Jason
Are you goping to post pic's of your little jigs fpr the doors etc? I'b be interested in seeing them
Are you goping to post pic's of your little jigs fpr the doors etc? I'b be interested in seeing them
Here you go Waka:
This jig is just an offcut of 6mm MDF wiith a 40mm hole in it to take a 40mm guide bush and a batten to reference it against the door edge. The hole is plunge cut with a router, 40mm bush and 35mm hinge bit.
I now use an 18mm thick jig with a 35mm hole with the bit guided by the hole & driven by the cordless. The hole will wear with use but just knock up another when this happens. You could add a couple of holes to pilot for the two fixing screws if you wanted.
From the underside you can see two screws that are used to adjust how far the hole is from the door edge according to th edoor gaps, thickness, etc.
This is the jig that I use to position the mounting plates, just a bit of 4mm MDF glued into a 4mm groove cut in some beech. The holes can be marked with a bradawl or one of the small sprung hinge drills . The set of holes closest to the edge (37mm) are for layon hinges, the others (37+18=55mm) for inset doors from 18mm MDF.
Jason
This jig is just an offcut of 6mm MDF wiith a 40mm hole in it to take a 40mm guide bush and a batten to reference it against the door edge. The hole is plunge cut with a router, 40mm bush and 35mm hinge bit.
I now use an 18mm thick jig with a 35mm hole with the bit guided by the hole & driven by the cordless. The hole will wear with use but just knock up another when this happens. You could add a couple of holes to pilot for the two fixing screws if you wanted.
From the underside you can see two screws that are used to adjust how far the hole is from the door edge according to th edoor gaps, thickness, etc.
This is the jig that I use to position the mounting plates, just a bit of 4mm MDF glued into a 4mm groove cut in some beech. The holes can be marked with a bradawl or one of the small sprung hinge drills . The set of holes closest to the edge (37mm) are for layon hinges, the others (37+18=55mm) for inset doors from 18mm MDF.
Jason
Wanlock Dod
Established Member
Jason,
Thanks for posting the pics. When I've done this before it's been without jigs. The door holes were drilled on a drill press and the hinges attached to the cabinets by holding the doors in place with a small spacer whilst fixing. It certainly works, but I suspect only really due to the marvelous adjustability of these kinds of hinges.
The doors were made along the lines of some wardrobe doors you described some time ago. Excellent results for something so remarkably straight forward.
Cheers,
Dod
Thanks for posting the pics. When I've done this before it's been without jigs. The door holes were drilled on a drill press and the hinges attached to the cabinets by holding the doors in place with a small spacer whilst fixing. It certainly works, but I suspect only really due to the marvelous adjustability of these kinds of hinges.
The doors were made along the lines of some wardrobe doors you described some time ago. Excellent results for something so remarkably straight forward.
Cheers,
Dod
Thanks Jason, appreciated.
