Depends what you mean by bowsaw. I made some 24” bow saws using bahco blades as indicated above but they are very aggressive and intended for cutting logs. I have also re-bladed an old Marples bowsaw using a short length of bandsaw blade, but it took a bit of experimentation to get the right one. Even bandsaw blades are a bit aggressive for hand work in a cabinet maker’s style bowsaw.
I made my own ... use a good hacksaw (cobalt steel blades help) tu cut a blunt hardpoint saw into strips. Only the teeth are induction hardened, the rest is normal saw plate. Clean up with a file, cut teeth with it held in a metalwork vice. Ok, it is a bit of a bother, but it worked well.
I have only ever used old bandsaw blades, of which I have plenty. Easy to drill holes through. They can be old and blunt and no good for the bandsaw but they work fine for frame saws. I have gone up to 3tpi 1inch saw blades. Not tried my ripper 1.1/4 2 tpi blades in a frame saw yet.
Does anyone have any tips for drilling holes in BS blade material? I have a box of blade which I ordered which are the wrong size. My fault. I ordered 3040 when I should have ordered 3430mm....
I used to have a nice home-made saw and fancy making one again. I do remember that the hardest part was making the blade.
The blades I have are 3/4 x 3 TPI, 3/8 x 6TPI and 1/4 x 24 TPI.
The one in my small bowsaw that you saw is a piece of Tuffsaws bandsaw blade it drilled very easily. I think the teeth are hardened and the body of the blade is softer. I will check what it is and let you know.
I had a collection of samples to test. What I did find was that the set on some bandsaw blades were just too aggressive for fine work.
Often bandsaw blades have a 'hook' tooth. This can be tricky under hand power. The very tips of the teeth can easily be taken back a little with a suitable file, hardened teeth need a diamond file of course. I suppose this is fast blunting but it works well, I have found.