Blade for Bosch Mitre Saw
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blackrodd
Established Member
I think it would be best if you say what you expect to use the saw for, as in mdf, softwoods, hardwoods or ply.
Usually more teeth for manmade boards as opposed to wide mitres in oak.
or even general purpose, which would probably be the same as the original.
It may be cheaper to get you're sharpened, rather than buy a new blade.
Regards Rodders
Usually more teeth for manmade boards as opposed to wide mitres in oak.
or even general purpose, which would probably be the same as the original.
It may be cheaper to get you're sharpened, rather than buy a new blade.
Regards Rodders
Sporky McGuffin
Light entertainer
I found the stock blade on my Bosch GCM SD10 produced very decent results, so you may be fine with what it comes with.
Thanks both.
My problem is that I've never owned or even used a mitre saw before, so I have nothing to compare with.
The blade seems ok, and the end grain is certainly left very 'smooth', compared with sawing by hand. But I do get a little bit of tearing on softwood, and I don't know if a better blade would eliminate that.
I read a review of another saw which implied that the blades which come with saws are always awful, and I just wondered if other people always replace the blade immediately. Didn't want to be missing out on the chance to spend some money
My problem is that I've never owned or even used a mitre saw before, so I have nothing to compare with.
The blade seems ok, and the end grain is certainly left very 'smooth', compared with sawing by hand. But I do get a little bit of tearing on softwood, and I don't know if a better blade would eliminate that.
I read a review of another saw which implied that the blades which come with saws are always awful, and I just wondered if other people always replace the blade immediately. Didn't want to be missing out on the chance to spend some money
Zeddedhed
Established Member
drillbit":osd5b5sz said:
If the tearout you're experiencing is at the back of the workpiece then I suggest using a thin strip of material (I use 50mm strips of 6mm MDF) placed between your workpiece and the rear fence.
When you make the cut this will prevent the back edge tearing.
YorkshireMartin
Established Member
I have the same saw and get tear out on the rear side of the work piece also, so it's not just your blade.
As Zedd said, the answer is a sacrificial fence. The fence has holes to allow one. Failing that, you could scribe your lines with a knife and cut very carefully, but the fence is easiest and quickest.
As Zedd said, the answer is a sacrificial fence. The fence has holes to allow one. Failing that, you could scribe your lines with a knife and cut very carefully, but the fence is easiest and quickest.
Zeddedhed nice one!!
I bought a new 60 tooth blade for my Dewalt mitre saw, for cutting finer cuts, and have been getting tearout or furring st the back of the wood.
I don't know why I didn't think of doing that.
Jonny
I bought a new 60 tooth blade for my Dewalt mitre saw, for cutting finer cuts, and have been getting tearout or furring st the back of the wood.
I don't know why I didn't think of doing that.
Jonny
Steve Maskery
Established Member
Bosch blades are excellent, if a tad pricey. I knackered mine up cutting cement tiles with it. When I looked at buying a replacement I was a bit shocked to fine out that it was a £100+ blade. It was resharpenable, fortunately, and I bought a mcuh cheaper DW blade, not quite so many teeth, but I'm still getting excellent results, even with that.
You run the risk of tearout when crosscutting wood with pretty much any blade, simply because of the way the tooth goes through the workpiece. Using the right blade (tooth shape as well as number) will yield better results than just using a GP blade, but yes, supporting the work at the back, either with a sacrificial fence or by taping first, will give the best results.
You run the risk of tearout when crosscutting wood with pretty much any blade, simply because of the way the tooth goes through the workpiece. Using the right blade (tooth shape as well as number) will yield better results than just using a GP blade, but yes, supporting the work at the back, either with a sacrificial fence or by taping first, will give the best results.
Sporky McGuffin
Light entertainer
Taping never occurred to me - is that with normal masking tape? I dod make some scarificial fences for my mitre saw and they certainly help. I was wondering about a zero-clearance insert as well.
Steve Maskery
Established Member
Yes. And a ZCI will also help.
Spelching occurs because the rearmost wood fibres are not supported. That is true whether we are using TS, BS, SCMS or even a handplane on endgrain. So anything that supports those fibres whilst they are being cut is going to help, as well as having the best blade for the job.
Why don't you ask Doug Perry at Cutting Solutions for some advice? He sells good blades at sensible prices.
Spelching occurs because the rearmost wood fibres are not supported. That is true whether we are using TS, BS, SCMS or even a handplane on endgrain. So anything that supports those fibres whilst they are being cut is going to help, as well as having the best blade for the job.
Why don't you ask Doug Perry at Cutting Solutions for some advice? He sells good blades at sensible prices.
Sporky McGuffin
Light entertainer
Ta muchly.
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