Bench buffing machine

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Chippygeoff

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I am hoping someone can give me some advice. I make small items in hardwoods up to approx 12 inches long by 6inches wide and the thickness is normally around 3/4 inch but many items I make are much smaller than this. I have been unhappy with the finish I am getting on some items and after watching a few videos from the Beal polishing company have decided to get a buffing machine.

There is no problem getting the machine that will take 8 inch mops and no problem getting the mops but I am finding it difficult finding the various compounds for polishing wood, there are plenty for metal etc.

The other question is that all the buffing machines I have seen have a tapered spindle, or pig tail end as some people call it and the buffing wheels just screw on. I was wondering if I could get the type where the buffing wheels fit in the same way as a grinding wheel, with a flange and a locking nut type system, Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
 
You can get buffing wheels for ordinary grinders from Tilgear. I ordered one a week or so. Not sure about the polishing compound for woods, they have a few different grades, Also I noticed Brimarc have some as well, remember one was suitable for acrylic. Not sure if that would be suitable. Hope it helps
Danny
 
You can get the two most regularly used compounds from a Chestnut finishes stockist, also anybody that stocks the Beal system will have them.

Tripoli compound (Brown) for initial abrasion
White (sometimes referred to as White diamond) for cleaning up Tripoli debris and increasing gloss level.

These are normally followed by a high melting point wax Buff, either Carnauba wax or Microcrystalline wax.

If you are into DIY construction of a buffing system be aware that not all mops are safe to use at the high speeds of a standard grinder.

Wood buffing mops are normally loose leaf (no support stitching) to allow maximum flexing around wood details without damaging fine details and most suppliers will have an advisory speed limit of about 1500 rpm. for a 200mm mop.

Some info. in this thread.
 
Bigdanny":3evw1tlz said:
Thank you Chas for the usage of loose mops. I only got mine for use on some bits of metal. But its always useful to know correct usage for wood.
I found this supplier for mops that seems to have a wide range. http://www.thepolishingshop.co.uk/acata ... _Mops.html.
Cheers
Danny
It is worth noting that for best results the fabric mix of the mops needs to match the abrasive, that for Tripoli is a stiffer weave, more like a linen/cotton mix.

That for waxing a fine soft cotton

For the White intermediate abrasive a medium grade cotton in between the two.

I can't stress enough how getting this balance right is conducive to best performance.

Try using the stiff fabric for all stages and the cloth will leave it's own character on the finish.
Try using the intermediate for all and the Tripoli stage takes ages and hardly effective and final gloss is not as good.
The soft polishing grade is of no use what so ever for the first two stages as it just flexes out of the way rather than applying enough surface pressure.

You can just about see the difference in these Chestnut examples.
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Years ago I was advised that polishing mops should be run with the top going away from the operator - in other words the opposite way to grinding wheels.
 
RogerP":2o85j5l6 said:
Years ago I was advised that polishing mops should be run with the top going away from the operator - in other words the opposite way to grinding wheels.
Each to their own, but I would prefer an item snatched out of my hand through a moments inattention to be thrown downward than upward into my face.

Also used in upward direction you cannot see the approach angle of an edge to the wheel so there is a greater risk of it being snatched.
 
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