Beall Buffing, what am I doing wrong?

[Honest John]

Just as the subject says. I have owned a Beall buffing system for a few years now, and I never get the sort of results that I think I should. Tripoli seems to leave streaks on my turnings and then the WD seems to make it worse and leave a Hazey white sort of cast. I have cleaned the wheels by running them on rough timber. I have varied the application quantity between next to nothing to well loaded. I run the buffers at 1700 revs but I’ve tried faster and slower. I’ve had this happen over all finishes, oils, shellac and lacquer. My latest dissapointment is on my mother in laws biscuit barrel. I’ve put a lacquer finish on that using the brushable acrylic lacquer that I found at Axminster last time I was there. The last application of that was 3-4 days ago. Is it pointless that this may not have cured yet? My lack of success with this system kind of puts me off using it. I wish now i’d Used Yorkshire Grit on it before I removed the chuck mount. I’ve seen wonderful results that others have had with this system, so what am I doing wrong?

 

[CHJ]

For starters if the Acrylic Lacquer was applied thickly I would expect it to take a week or more to cure sufficiently for buffing this time of year unless in warm room.
Don't know what is recommended for Beal, never used the system but if the mops are 200mm dia. I would expect starting speed to be in the order of 1200 rpm.

I get best results with light Mop loading, just enough to colour the mop. If you are leaving wax carrier on the work you are using far too much.

These two pamphlets* may help regarding method and KimG's buffing of coloured work in particular regarding waiting for acrylics etc. to cure.

General Buffing

Buffing Coloured work

* Pamphlets formatted for double sided printing, so page numbers must be followed on straight printing.

 

[CHJ]

Re-reading your post I'm wondering if you have contaminated the mops with oils, polymerising oils need many days to cure hard enough for buffing, if you have been running the mops at such high speeds you may well have created too much friction, and softened and broken through the cured surface contaminating them.

Without seeing the mops and experimenting to check it's a job to know for sure but I might suggest you wash them in normal washing detergent and start again.

 

[Honest John]

Thanks for your quick reply CHJ. I have used 1700 revs because that is what Beall say to use. My mops are indeed the 8 inch ones. I shall try reducing the speed down to 1200 ish and use a very length touch. I’m wondering if I have been generatin* too much heat? My latest vessel has had 3 coats of this brush on lacquer put on as fine as I could get it, with a day between each application and flatted down between coats with those coloured abrasive pads. My workshop is part of my main house structure, is heated and never goes below 16 deg C at any time so my projects and products are never subjected to low temps. I might rebuff this item in perhaps 5 or 6 days and see if I can improve it. I shall use a lower speed and a lighter touch and see how we go on. My buffs are not overly coloured as I have cleaned them before and after use on a piece of scrap as advised by Beall. Il post when I’ve tried again in the hope someone else can benefit from my incompetence.

 

[sunnybob]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P5nSTIi ... lies%20USA

 

[sunnybob]

or, if youre in a hurry and only buffing small items....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rv5NSai ... oodturning

 

[CHJ]

..... My buffs are not overly coloured as I have cleaned them before and after use on a piece of scrap as advised by Beall. .....

This surprises me, never ever heard of or practiced 'Cleaning the Mops' after every use.
I've only ever washed two mops in several years and well over 1000 pieces buffed.
One was because it had accumulated too much Tripoli wax carrier, the other was because I touched a metal fitting and contaminated the surface.

I'm still using the Prototype Mop Set, first seen out in public in 2009 at PaulJ's second turning bash, (page 15)

 

[Dalboy]

Like Chas I have the Chestnut system and have only had to clean one of my mops I overloaded it by mistake

But as stated pressing to hard can overheat the finish and damage it or even take it off completly. Some people also think that by using the buffing system that it will get rid of streak marks if the finish is applied by hand on the lathe. So the thing to remember take care with applying the finish and then use the buffing system to get the look you are after as it is only what it says a Buffing system.

 

[Honest John]

Sorted now. Beall recommend 1700-1800rpm, but noting that many of you are suggesting more like 1200ish I’ve tried that with a very light touch and have removed all the marks. I cleaned the wheels with 180 grit over a piece of scrap to remove any excesses and started again. It’s too late to fully restore this piece as I think I have damaged the lacquered surface with heat the first time round, but it is certainly much better now and non turners wouldn’t notice there is anything wrong with it :lol: thanks to all who commented.

 

[Rorschach]

Don't clean wheel with sandpaper!!!!

One stray bit of grit stuck in there and the wheel is ruined!

 

[Lons]

Don't clean wheel with sandpaper!!!!

One stray bit of grit stuck in there and the wheel is ruined!

I thought the same and not so sure about cleaning with rough wood either. If mine need cleaning I use an old stiff toothbrush

Bob

 

[Lazurus]

A clean wire brush..... but hold tight.

 

[Honest John]

Beall themselves advise cleaning and conditioning the mops using 100 grit abrasive wrapped round scrap timber, and also running the mops against scrap to clean off the excess Tripoli. On that sibject of the Beall video instructions, I notice that Beall is using much more Tripoli than I have ever put on my wheels. Kind of blowing a hole in my theory that I had over applied it. I’m guessing that I have just used too much pressure and burned through the finish. Any way it’s not too bad now although I’m going to make another one and attempt a better finish.
I would post a photograph but I’m going to have to investigate this new site, I’ve just had a look and it’s not obvious where to start!

 

[CHJ]

At the time this image was taken in 2012 these mops had been used for about 3 years and never cleaned.

Taken from This thread

 

[Honest John]

 

[Honest John]

Well I’ve got the image, I just need to figure out how to sort it with the text !

 

[Jonzjob]

I too have the Beal system John and the only time that I have had to clean a wheel was the time I had a complete brain cell attack and used it for a second on a brass Spitfire !!! :shock: As you say, Beal says to clean with an abrasive and I used 80 grit on a block. Since then I haven't had any problems and I have had mine for about 7 years if I remember correctly.

I also mounted it on the motor that I had spare when I changed to a 3ø variable speed jobbie on my Record C1 lathe. It makes the job of buffing so much easier. 1400 rpm seems to do the job really well.

 

[Dalboy]

At the time this image was taken in 2012 these mops had been used for about 3 years and never cleaned.

Taken from This thread

I keep promising to make a cupboard for my mops still using the cardboard box they came in your looks good Chas Have you got a full picture of it

 

[CHJ]

...
I keep promising to make a cupboard for my mops still using the cardboard box they came in your looks good Chas Have you got a full picture of it

I've got these taken some years ago Derek for Magazine article.
Still the same layout.

The only difference since those images is that the lower shelf has gained a few dividers for immediate spares and a cover to limit the debris getting in.

 

[Dalboy]

Thank you Chas a very tidy workshop. Like the storage looking at the buffing section has given me an idea how to make one for myself, yuours was a great help