David C
In Memorium
I have almost always glued down our bandsaw veneer with Cascamite or Aerolite though recently have been using Bison PU glue from Tilgear.
All these are gapfilling. UF does not creep. The surface finish from the meat & fish blade is smoother than from a regular blade though not perfect. We generally cut the veneer at 2.5 mm and may subsequently loose 0.2 to 0.3 mm in final cleanup. Have not noticed any ghosting yet probably due to the thickness of the veneer.
We have also hand planed the sawn surface sometimes to remove the texture from the saw kerf.
My method is to machine the board, cut a slice and then remachine with a light pass, about 0.1 to 0.2. Thus each veneer has one machined surface. If bookmatching we might smooth the sawn sufaces with a handplane after cutting, but I am not sure this is essential.
best wishes,
David
All these are gapfilling. UF does not creep. The surface finish from the meat & fish blade is smoother than from a regular blade though not perfect. We generally cut the veneer at 2.5 mm and may subsequently loose 0.2 to 0.3 mm in final cleanup. Have not noticed any ghosting yet probably due to the thickness of the veneer.
We have also hand planed the sawn surface sometimes to remove the texture from the saw kerf.
My method is to machine the board, cut a slice and then remachine with a light pass, about 0.1 to 0.2. Thus each veneer has one machined surface. If bookmatching we might smooth the sawn sufaces with a handplane after cutting, but I am not sure this is essential.
best wishes,
David