Bandsaw tuition

[Sapper]

Hi, I’ve got Record BS300E bandsaw but I’m also a true novice so would appreciate some advice.
I’ve fitted Tuff Saws 1/4” blade but find it difficult to follow a curve which is not too sharp without twisting the blade. I’ve tensioned the blade as suggested so it shouldn’t be that so where am I going wrong?

 

[robgul]

Hi, I’ve got Record BS300E bandsaw but I’m also a true novice so would appreciate some advice.
I’ve fitted Tuff Saws 1/4” blade but find it difficult to follow a curve which is not too sharp without twisting the blade. I’ve tensioned the blade as suggested so it shouldn’t be that so where am I going wrong?

There are some useful videos from Axminster on YouTube - both setting up and using a bandsaw

 

[Padster]

Also look up Alex Snodgrass on YouTube he has some really cool and good vids - have always setup his way.

Padster

 

[Richard_C]

The Axminster ones mentioned by Robgul above are good, some are 'bite sized' - one for straight, another for curves etc. This is the direct link to the one for curves.



Forget the "Axminster-ness" - your RP machine will behave the same.

I struggled at first, the natural instinct if the cut begins to drift is to stop feeding and start twisting but you really need to keep the wood moving smoothly past the blade with a sort of pivoting motion. Plus of course having the column the right height - as close to the wood as you can while still able to see what you are doing.

I found some plywood scrap, maybe 200x300 (mm, not inches ), drew a wavy line down one long edge, cut it, drew another, cut it, drew another with tighter curves, cut it ... and so on. After a bit it sort of comes naturally and you can transfer the technique to thicker stock and then to stuff that matters.

 

[robgul]

The Axminster ones mentioned by Robgul above are good, some are 'bite sized' - one for straight, another for curves etc. This is the direct link to the one for curves.



Forget the "Axminster-ness" - your RP machine will behave the same.

I struggled at first, the natural instinct if the cut begins to drift is to stop feeding and start twisting but you really need to keep the wood moving smoothly past the blade with a sort of pivoting motion. Plus of course having the column the right height - as close to the wood as you can while still able to see what you are doing.

I found some plywood scrap, maybe 200x300 (mm, not inches ), drew a wavy line down one long edge, cut it, drew another, cut it, drew another with tighter curves, cut it ... and so on. After a bit it sort of comes naturally and you can transfer the technique to thicker stock and then to stuff that matters.

Chances are that the Record Power machine is the same as the Axminster - same manufacturer, different colour and badge!

 

[thetyreman]

Also look up Alex Snodgrass on YouTube he has some really cool and good vids - have always setup his way.

Padster

+1

 

[Sapper]

Thank you for your help much appreciated I’ll practice some of the video’s and will master it one day

 

[Riv]

30 years of bandsaw use and I still have all my fingers.
If new to them:
1) Lower the guard to cover as much as possible of the blade.
2) Make a range of push sticks
3) Get really good directional lighting
4) When the blade feels blunt replace it, accidents happen with blunt blades when you get impatient or tired
5) Buy a load of new blades so you always have one on hand
6) Learn to fold and unfold blades safely

Q: What do you get the user who has a bandsaw for their birthday?
A: A bigger one

Size really matters.

 

[Richard_C]

2) Make a range of push sticks

Indeed. Ive got a push stick with a very long saw cut in the end, proof that fingers are not the tool to use.

 

[Spectric]

Chances are that the Record Power machine is the same as the Axminster - same manufacturer, different colour and badge!

Yes I reckon the production line would be a sight for sore eyes, a right mix and match of machines in different colours and stickers with the required branding all heading west but probably not just woodworking machinery, I wonder if they do factory tours !

 

[Sideways]

Lookup the minimum cutting radius for curves for each width of blade and don't try to cut tighter.

https://www.tuffsaws.co.uk/index.php?route=information/information&information_id=131/4" blade, 16mm radius, 32mm dia circle is as tight as you can go in a continuous curve.

Tension stiffens a blade and makes it more resistant to bending and twisting, so it's a good thing but don't overdo it.
The tension indicators on bandsaws are simplistic and not entirely trustworthy. There's no answer to this other than a blade tension gauge, or a new spring where you know the specifications plus a good caliper to measure the compression with. That's a bit much to start with so just experiment. A bandsaw blade makes a good bang when it goes but the loss of tension takes away the drive so it's not very dangerous.
Bear in mind that if you compress a tension spring by more than 25% it will start to take a permanent set and never recover to it's original length. From that point on your tension gauge is never going to be accurate even if it was to start with.

Blade guides are there as a back stop. You shouldn't be leaning on them in normal cutting. Go gently.
If you are cutting any significant thickness of wood you need a much lower tooth count than you may expect. 3 teeth in the thickness of the wood. So 1" and thicker you need a 3tpi blade. 6tpi in half inch ply, 12tpi in 1/4" ply, etc

You need the gullets between the teeth to carry out the wood fibres otherwise your blade will get too hot too quickly.

Bandsaw boxes out of thick wood cut with a skinny blade and a high tooth count isn't an ideal scenario. Don't expect that to be easy.

 

[Ttrees]

Buy a metal detector device like a lumberwizard or security wand,
if you don't have one already.
Good chance a nail, screw or staple may be embedded in the scrap box, much of which is likely destined for testing.

 

[robgul]

Yes I reckon the production line would be a sight for sore eyes, a right mix and match of machines in different colours and stickers with the required branding all heading west but probably not just woodworking machinery, I wonder if they do factory tours !

Yep - a random scan of small machines suggests commonality of manufacturer not only for bandsaws but also belt/disc sanders, drill presses, table saws, planer/thicknessers, air filter boxes and more.

 

[Stuart Moffat]

… and when you eventually decide you want to buy a bigger one, hang onto your little one if you can. I find my little delta one still very useful along with the big RP one. Useful for doing tighter radius without changing blades on RP.

 

[Sapper]

Great helpful advice and information, thanks.