bandsaw switch

[keithkarl2007]

Hoping someone can help me out. Don't know what happened with my bandsaw last night. The blade broke, I wasn't cutting anything when it happened. I changed the blade but now the bandsaw won't start. A friend of mine fixes woodworking machinery and reckons it is the switch. Does anyone know where I can get a KJD-10 switch suitable for my bandsaw. A quick Google search threw up every other switch except the KJD - 10.

 

[wizard]

what make of bandsaw

 

[lurker]

Have a look on charnwood machinery website

 

[keithkarl2007]

It's for a Jet 16x.

 

[keithkarl2007]

Thanks Lurker. They didn't have one on their website so I sent them off an email.

 

[wizard]

check for dust in the switch

 

[keithkarl2007]

There was a small amount of dust inside it. I gave it a light blast of air but it didn't help.

 

[wizard]

the dust will have burnt it out as it may happen with a new switch

 

[keithkarl2007]

Thanks for that. I'll know to keep an eye on it if I can get a new switch for it.

 

[wizard]

just fit a better switch on the wall or somwhere

 

[Eric The Viking]

You need to be systematic in your testing.

Important: when the blade broke:

(1) was the motor running? If so,

Check #1: THE FUSE IN THE PLUG. Test it with a meter or substitute a new fuse (13A). They do get 'tired'
and the voltage surge* from the motor suddenly coming off-load might have blown it.

(2) did the motor stop on its own, or did you turn the machine off manually?

Check #2: If the motor stopped on its own (or it wasn't running at the time the blade broke), check the safety microswitches inside the wheel covers (the doors). There is most likely to be physical damage to at least one of them, probably from the flailing blade as it broke.
Any mechanical damage to the switch should be obvious, but if not: PULL THE PLUG OUT, and put a test meter on the Ohms range, across each microswitch in turn. Activate the microswitch, or try to (mine has a hole in the door surround - you can poke a nail or screw in to work the switch). You should see the resistance change from very high to very low, and back when you release the pressure on the switch. There will also probably be a quite obvious click.

Only then try the NVR switch, as it's the least likely source of failure in these circumstances.

Hope that helps.

Microswitches should be cheap and easily found on the web somewhere. They're almost always over-specced for small bandsaws, so pretty much anything in the same style will probably do, and ones intended for other purposes can be adapted to fit. An exact replacement from the importer will probably be needlessly expensive.

If it really is the NVR switch, I'm not impressed. Blade breaking is just something that happens often enough and the switch should cope. If it did fail, I'd be keen to find a better one, not an identical one.

In my opinion, an NVR switch for a bandsaw IS a good idea, so don't wire it out and fit an ordinary wall switch. Axminster sell a couple of nice boxed ones (see: http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-nvr-switch , for example), that you could fit tidily to the machine fairly easily. I very much doubt it's the problem though.

If in any doubt about how to correctly use a test meter, etc., you really ought to find better qualified help to do it. Also, if any sawdust really can get into the NVR switch, it shouldn't - there should be adequate sealing (a box round it with cable grommets, etc.). They are essentially electro-mechanical devices. If it's really cheap and nasty, replacing it will be a good idea.

E.

*actually the current associated. The voltage spike might just have killed the NVR switch's solenoid, but as I said, it should be designed to cope.

 

[wizard]

What i am saying is fit a better switch on the wall not just a on off switch on the wall. The problem with that type of machine is that on some of them the dust gets into the switch and cause it to fail, getting a better switch that will not fit in the machine and get covered with dust is a good idea.

 

[DTR]

Eric the Viking: when you recommend the Axminster NVR switches, is this from personal experience? I'm in need of one (or two) and I'd like to start with a reliable one rather than learning the hard way . Thanks!

 

[Eric The Viking]

I've got two Axy machines currently in use with their NVR switches.

My router table has the blue-boxed one they used to sell separately. I think the one I linked to is the same, albeit in a black box. My workshop is damp, often a killer for electromechanical switches, and it's been faultless so far after about five or six years of occasional use. It has a 13A socket on the side, and you can remove the flappy stop button (which I prefer for some applications).

I've also got the one they used to sell as a lower current switch, on the side of the morticer. Black box, square, clear plastic covered buttons). That too has been fine, but it is probably too small for a bandsaw motor.

I've also got a different one on the TS200, but it's buit in and doesn't look like the same brand (and the TS200 is old so it's not the current NVR they fit).

I think you'd have to ask them about the ones they presently sell, as they're not quite the same as the older ones. The new 'aftermarket' ones they sell look slightly better, in that they have tidy cable glands, etc., but it's all down to the quality of the mech. That said, they are at a sensible price. I've seen NVR switches eslsewhere for silly prices, and I doubt they'd be better electrically.

You might also try RS components ("Radiospares" for those of us of a certain age). I'm sure whatever RS stock will be wonderful, but it will be hard to find on their site and it won't be cheap! Farnell/CPC similarly.

E.

 

[DTR]

Thanks for the info Eric, I'll give the Axminster switches some consideration. The bandsaw is a Burgess 3-wheeler so the wattage is probably relatively low (will check later). I believe that RS are a pain to order from for a non-professional like me but I'll give CPC a look too. Thanks again

 

[Eric The Viking]

I've given up on RS (after a career change some years back I no longer have the regular need, and they wouldn't let me have an account in my own right).

I believe anyone can order from them on-line (at a slight premium compared to the trade counters). Farnell are similar. Both have really awkward search engines, although I expect you'd get used to them if you used them every day.

E.

 

[marcros]

i found RS a nightmare to order from even with an account at work. And expensive- you paid the price for the availability of stock, but anything that could be sourced elsewhere was significantly cheaper elsewhere.

 

[Eric The Viking]

I agree.

When I was a (very) little boy, and they were "Radiospares", my dad used to take me to their trade counter in (West?) London and hoist me up onto the counter, while he bought whatever it was. I still have a few odd reels of wire, etc. in their very old livery.

Time was when they were the only game for decent components quickly. Not any more.

 

[Racers]

I have used RS and Farnell for parts, also CPC who are part of Farnell, they (CPC) sometimes have parts cheaper the Farnell, but some times like when I wanted some transistors that where half the Farnell price they where "out of stock" :evil:

Pete