There is a setup process to go through, in the right order.
It may not be in the manual, because that makes the reasonable assumption the machine came from the factory, where it will have had some setup done. Yours, being 3-wheel, is marginally more complicated than a two wheel one, but as has been said, unless it's either got very worn parts or is damaged, it should cut well.
0. Take the blade off and throw it away. Order TWO* new ones from Ian at Tuffsaws (go with his recommendation for the work you intend doing).
1. Check the condition of wheels, tyres and bearings, and that the frame is straight and things are in-line at right-angles to the direction in which the cut is made (it may not be in the other plane, as the machine should be tensioned, and smaller bandsaws (mine, for example!) bend noticeably when brought up to working tension with big blades. If it has roller-bearing blade guides, don't worry about them unless there is evident damage - it's not a car engine and the bearings don't do much work unless it's been abused or used hard for a long time.
2. Get the wheels parallel and in alignment in the vertical plane. This will take longer with a three-wheeler, as you have three sets of tests/adjustments, rather than one, but all you should need is a straightedge and some accurately cut blocks to stand it off past the frame. This is probably the worst bit of the process, and shouldn't be hurried.
3. Load up one of your new blades. Do the tensioning and tracking, until it's running nicely.
4. At that point, check the table is square to the blade (i.e. when it's tensioned-up).
5. Repeat the tracking, to correct for drift, if necessary.
I've deliberately skipped detail, as you really need to watch Steve's bandsaw DVDs - it's understanding why various adjustments matter and how they affect the cut that's important.
Final thought: three wheel saws send the blades through tighter radii than two-wheel ones, obviously. It's done to give more throat space (can cut off longer pieces), but it may shorten the life of the saw blades (more bending = early fracture), and probably means they can't carry as much tension as bigger saws.
So it will work for small stuff, and cutting fancy curves with small blades (like a fretsaw), but will be challenged if asked to rip-saw down thick stock. That doesn't mean it's not useful, just that it has limitations. Everything does.
FWIW, Mine is a small 'hobby saw', is third-hand, has had a hard life and still cuts really well.
Cheers.
E.
*you will inevitably break a blade in the middle of doing something. If you have a spare it's merely embarrassing, if you don't it's a showstopper.
