Band Saw wondering blade

[Lee J]

Just need some advise, anyone ever had their bandsaw start cutting on a line then wonders off to the left as though the blade is twisting itself?

I've fitted a brand new tuff saw blade (1/4" for doing tight corners) but when I cut in a straight line through some 3/8 oak the blade seems to wander off on it's own, even when I use the guide fence?

I've set it all up to suit the new blade, altered the guides etc

all out of ideas now

 

[CHJ]

.....I've set it all up to suit the new blade, altered the guides etc..

1/4" Blade, can you post an image of how you are supporting/guiding it, is the blade axis true to the table?

The fence is not a contributing factor regarding blade cutting true to table/machine axis.

There will be those that will point to setting the fence angle to accommodate the blade drift, or even using a single point fence to accommodate a mis-aligned or poor performing blade but really these actions should not be needed if a good blade is supported and aligned correctly.

 

[marcros]

How many tpi does the blade have?

 

[Terry - Somerset]

I have found when cutting a lot of bowl blanks (curves) that the teeth get worn on one side as blanks tend to be cut in one direction and this makes it difficult to cut straight. Problem solved with new blade

Rods

Terry

 

[Steve Maskery]

Sounds like the tracking is out to me. The thicker the wood, the more resistance it puts on the blade and so any imperfection in BS setup is amplified. A blade can cut well in thinner stock but only show up its weaknesses when put to more difficult work. Start from first principles and you should be fine.

 

[MMUK]

You're trying to cut straight lines with a scrolling blade?.........

 

[Steve Maskery]

Sorry, I read that as 3" oak rather than 3/8. Haven't got my eyes in today...
Yes, even a 1/4" blade should cut in a straight line, but if you are ripping you should not have too many teeth.
S

 

[CHJ]

You're trying to cut straight lines with a scrolling blade?.........

Why Not, am I doing something wrong. ?

Saves me from constantly changing blades.

 

[Lee J]

it's a blade I use for bandsaw boxes so I like it to have flexability but I think it's not set up right due to it wondering away

 

[Mr T]

Hi

CHJ suggested that someone will recommend checking for drift. Well I'll be that someone. I think it's worth adjusting the fence to the line of cut of the blade, even if only to rule it out as a possible problem. Even with a good new blade if the fence is not adjusted to the line of cut then you may have problems.

Chris

 

[CHJ]

Although adjusting a fence may be a work around for immediate problems it does not solve the use of the mitre slots for jigs etc. Unless you swivel the table as well that is, assuming the machine build allows this and you don't want to play with compound angles.

IMHO it's far better to Keep the table and frame alignment true and sort out blade alignment true to machine axis.

 

[Steve Maskery]

+1
It isn't actually difficult to fettle a bandsaw, they are simple machines. Assuming nothing is actually broken and you have a good blade, it's just a matter of doing the right things in the right order. There are plenty of primers around, including free ones. The result is not just better cutting but more satisfying use of the machine, too.
S

 

[PAC1]

It is definitely worth spending the time. I reset mine Christmas eve. It took an hour but wow what a difference. It is amazing how over time things start off a little out and end up massively out. One of my bearing guides had moved and was pushing the blade over quite a long way which I could only properly see when I had removed the table. I then used the saw to cut a wreath in 3" oak for a stair handrail. It was like a hot knife through butter and spot on accurate. So the hour I lost setting up was gained with interest because I saved on clean up time.

 

[Steve Maskery]

That is a very good example of how the investment pays off. Excellent.
S