Axminster MJ12-1600 mk1 riving knife

[MrYorke]

Hi

I've just bought a second hand mj12-1600 mark 1 version but the riving knife is missing.

Does anyone have this machine that I can have a full scale drawing/template of the riving knife please so I can potentially get one made if Axminster can't get hold of one for me. Cheers.

Mike

 

[tomlt]

I have one, I bought a "spare" from Axminster, was something like 12quid, but took about 6 weeks on a slow boat from china. I will dig out the spare and take a trace for you and scan it tomorrow (assuming I can find it still!).

It's about 3mm thick steel and not too complex. I cut the top down on mine so that I could do flush cuts/dado's using the top of the blade.

Cheers, Tom.

 

[Steve Maskery]

If you end up making your own, here are a few tips.
Make it from gauge plate rather than mild steel. Mild steel will distort as you cut it and you'll never get it flat again.
Don't let the gauge plate get hot as you cut it or it will harden and you will get no further.
The inside radius should be the radius of your blade (125mm for a typical 10" blade) plus about 5mm.
If you have different-kerf blades you will need different RKs for each. Typically 3mm for a trad 1/8" blade, 2.5mm for a 2.8mm kerf, etc.
Cut the shape so that the bottom of the mounting slot is closed so that if it does come loose it doesn't get hurled up at you.

HTH
Steve

 

[MrYorke]

Thanks Tom,

That would be much appreciated if you do come across it. I have sent a PM with my email address but also my postal address as I'd imagine a hard copy would be better if you don't mind sending it. I will happily pay for postage.

Thanks, Mike

 

[MrYorke]

Thanks for all the advice. That's great. I do hope to get one from Axminster but we'll have to see.

Thanks. Mike

 

[tomlt]

Mike, I've emailed over a scaled drawing (sorry no graph paper) and a direct scan of the spare knife. Let me know if still want an "original" copy put in the post. Forgot to sat my verniers confirmed that it was 3.05mm thick, so standard 3mm mild steel should be just fine.

For anyone else who needs them in the future, here they are....

Cheers, Tom.

 

[Steve Maskery]

That bottom end should have a closed slot, not an open one.
If you want it easy-out, make a slot out the back, near the bottom end.

 

[tomlt]

Poor design eh Steve? I too was expecting a closed slot, but this is how they come from the factory, tbh it feels like an after thought, its not very rigid, the guard on mine skews due to the hose weight. Ive bought a free standing guard as the extraction on the standard one is useless even with my numatic nvd connected directly to the guard port and my 2hp cyclone on the main outlet below. Ive shortened my knife down which meant loosing those top 3 holes, no great loss and now means i can cut things like tennon shoulders with ease.

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