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Axminster AW106PT Planer Thicknesser

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ProShop

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Yes, loads of them at the weekend, in their "clearance auction" - mostly customer returns. The original listing had 6 of these P/T (Axminster AW106PT) but the updated listing when I got there must have had over 20 of them, often sold in pairs so you could construct something useable out of them. .
Adam

Adam, I nearly went to the auction when I saw the list and there was six of them for auction, but I live in North Lincs and a long way just on the hope of getting another. If I had known there was 20 I would have bought the lot, (this machine has potential (honest). And I was well miffed when you posted regarding the 3 phase machines going for a song, as I fully expected them to fetch good money, and as you rightly pointed out in your post converting them to single phase you would not only have a good machine but saved a lot of cash in the process.

A pity Axminster didn,t spent a bit more time with the list and what they wanted to sell. :(

And that spindle moulder you saw, that was so cheap :x I've decided I really need one to do the bigger jobs I have planned, so I'll keep looking.
I rang MNA this morning to go and view the Scheppach moulder this afternoon, but they sold it yesterday, no more till September. Damn!
 

Adam

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Fixit":35hjx2to said:
Adam, I nearly went to the auction when I saw the list and there was six of them for auction, but I live in North Lincs and a long way just on the hope of getting another. If I had known there was 20 I would have bought the lot, (this machine has potential (honest). And I was well miffed when you posted regarding the 3 phase machines going for a song, as I fully expected them to fetch good money, and as you rightly pointed out in your post converting them to single phase you would not only have a good machine but saved a lot of cash in the process.

Yep, it was a long drive for me, but you'll know for next year (as might lots of other people though). The bid sheet or website (can't remember which) did mention their would be another 300 lots, but I'd presumed it was bashed up hand tools etc. In fact it was all machines. I guess they shop is a good outlet for "managers specials" which are smaller, such as hand saws, drill bits etc. The machines need to be auctioned really. It was a shame they changed their mind on delivery, otherwise I would have had that spindle moulder. If I had a big workshop, and armed with the knowledge I have now, you could get some good bargains, if you were willing to risk the 3-phase issue. One of the things they were selling was a prototype bandsaw - the largest in their range, , which they'd been testing. It worked fine, but fetched no money at all. It was just the one they had through from their factory presumably. If you go, I'd recommend going the day before, so you can can start looking at the stuff from 9am onwards. And take a luton tail lift! Although they were helping with loading - and had a forklift.

Adam
 

ProShop

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Adam,

I would love to know how many they have sold !!
And it's a crying shame to see machines as you describe in that state, it makes you wonder how or why Axminster accepted them back in that condition :( .
It's hard to imagine how people expect the planer to keep worlking after being abused like that.
 

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asleitch":1udsadl9 said:
They were in a right state, rusty, mangled, bashed and bruised. They looked like what I'd expect from people sending them back after 6 months hard labour in a fencing company, probably working outside with a sheet of tarpaulin over when it's raining.
Or perhaps after a hard crossing on a container ship? Bad things can happen to containers twixt Chiwan and here; they may have received a load in that condition perhaps? It would explain the quantity maybe too...

Speculating without facts (all good fun :wink: ), Alf
 

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Alf":28rxaag6 said:
Speculating without facts (all good fun :wink: ), Alf

Nah :wink: These had definately been used. Bit of an eye opener really, I didn't really know you could abuse tools to that level.

Adam
 
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Fixit wrote:

I have the Fox version of this machine, and what a cracker it is too!

Fixit, can you clarify the actual capacities of the 'Fox' version, because the man at Msctools told me it had '190mm' capacity compared to the Axminster's '154mm'. Is this correct or was he lying too me and talking humbug?

What else is it like Fixit? Can you elaborate a bit? What's the build like? what's the finish like? what are the standard of the general components used? Is the motor sweet, and up to the job? Is there any aspect you don't like about it?

Sorry for the questions but I am on the verge of getting the fox version and there are no better people to ask than those who run one!
 

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Spud,
I have been out to my workshop tonight and have taken the following measurements.

Planer bed width is 255mm, 240mm with fence in place.

Thicknesser width 250mm
Thicknesser depth 170mm

As I've described before the finish is as good as the Scheppach and Beckum. I can only compare to these machines as they are the only ones I can judge it against. I have used hardwood 175mm wide and joinery soft wood 200mm X 75mm and no problems with power levels.
All the planer tables are fully adjustable on every axis. I set mine up on everything being aligned with the cutter block, Blades, outfeed table, infeed table.

Things I wish were better are.
Manual, it's very basic. you can download the Axminster one from their web site (much better). Not much info on setting up though or checking to see etc, but it's easy to do. Remember these machines have come from China on a container ship etc, and moved within the UK :lol: so they need checking. :D
The motor is a tad on the noisy side (but powerful enough). Although not as noisy as some I've heard. That could also depend a lot on the acoustics in your own workshop.
Slight backlash on the thicknesser on wind down, but you should always set thickness on the wind up anyway.

I paid £525 for mine, I think it's a bargain, compared to other similar size machines.
 
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Anonymous

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Cheers Fixit! I am going to try and get my mit's on the Fox version for definate now.
 
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Anonymous

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Hi, I am new to this forum. This is for FIXIT and anyone else who might be able to help. In Australia the AW106PT is sold by a number of vendors with their own badge on the machine. I have recently just purchased one and am having some difficulty is setting it up. The manual is chinglish so I have downloaded the one from the Axminster site.

Here is my problem.

Not sure if it is just me, or I have a Friday afternoon/Monday morning machine. Running work over the jointer I find that on a piece of raw timber 25mm thick, I end up after smoothing a 200mm wide piece of Mountain Ash (Aus hardwood), that the side nearest the fence is about 3mm more narrow than the outside. I have reset the blades using a PSJ-01 Planer Blade Setting Jig - still have the problem. After making the infeed and outfeed tables level, I placed a straight edge on the infeed table so that it extended over the outfeed table. This was carried out both near the fence and near the front edge. Using a feeler gauge to measure the gap under the straight edge at each end of the outfeed table, I have four different readings, ranging from nil to 8/1000" ( don't have metric gauge). I suspect a possible warp in the outfeed table. Any suggestion here.

Now for the thicknesser. If I have to push/pull the timber through the thicknesser for much longer I am going to have sholders like weight lifter. Using a piece of 4x2 to test the movement of the output metal roller, I find that with little effort I can raise the roller on the front of the machine. However, on moving to the back of the machine (motor drive side) it is almost impossible to get any movement. I have removed the back cover and adjusted the spring nut ( tightned it to compress the spring up) which seems to make a little difference. Given that I have tightened it quite a bit I am now getting concerned that I may be backing the wrong horse.

Hope you can help.
 

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Bob,
Before I set my machine up, I found a similar problem as you describe.
I'm not familiar with the blade setting tool you mention. My machine came with one which makes setting up a little easier.
I started off by checking the level of the outfeed table against the cutter block, this included across the width and also the length, using feeler gauges and a straight edge, (incidentally if you need to adjust on the length you have to knock through the dowel pins and use the cam adjuster, when you have got this spot on when tightened up you can drill a fresh hole or enlarge the original and refit or fit enlarged dowel back in). This will ensure future accuracy. I think this is possibly the reason you think the table is warped.

Once I had this all done I then started to align the infeed table to the outfeed table in both directions as described exactly for the outfeed table.

Then if you are still reading this :) I then set the blades against the cutter block using the setting tool that came with the machine. (this is a little fiddly but there is a knack to it) :roll: .

Then to check it all I used the simple time honoured method of a piece of wood placed on the outfeed table with 3 x 2mm sharp knife marks on one end and set this right at the front edge of the outfeed table, then rotate the block by hand (don't forget to pull the plug from the socket :wink: ).
and check the movement of the wood it should only move 2mm to 3mm
at each end of the blade for all 3 blades. (hope I have described this bit well enough I will try and get you some pics if your not sure what I'm describing here.




drive side) it is almost impossible to get any movement. I have removed the back cover and adjusted the spring nut ( tightned it to compress the spring up) which seems to make a little difference. Given that I have tightened it
.
Bob you mention tightened the spring nut in singular terms :?: have you tightened both spring nuts on the infeed roller :?:
also you can check if the infeed roller is clean of resin etc as this makes a difference as well.

My outfeed roller was also very strong on the spring and I have eased it off by slackening both nuts off a fair bit, ( don't overdue this though as your likely to increase the possibility of snipe creeping in.

Hope any of this helps.
:D

It took me some time to set all this up but it's been well worth it for 2 main reasons 1. The finish is excellent and I know all the ins & outs of the machine ( useful if any probs etc.
 
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Anonymous

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Thanks for the quick reply John. I will work my through the process you described tomorrow. It is 11:00pm Wednesday evening here. Re the nut I adjusted. I never touched the thicknesser infeed roller, only the rear (near the drive gear) spring nut for the smooth metal output roller. Because the front side of the output roller moves so freely I never touched it. You mentioned that you loosened the nuts on your system, I would have thought that this was the opposite to what is required. I am working on the principal that tightening the nut forces the spring up and therefore makes it easier for the roller to lift as timber passes under it. Do I have it all wrong. Once again thanks for the response.
 

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I am working on the principal that tightening the nut forces the spring up
Bob, It's the opposite I'm afraid as the spring is pressurising from the bottom forcing the roller downwards so to speak. So you need to slacken both left & right side springs on that particular roller.

If the infeed roller is very easy to lift by hand then you may need to tighten both left & right springs.

To access both left & right springs on each roller you will need to remove 2 covers. The main cover containing the drive gear and also the small access panel on the inside of the thicknesser compartment , there are I believe 6 small screws, remove these and then slide the cover off.
 
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John, I have had a look at my machine with your response in mind, and all I can say is that if you enjoy this then you are a very sick man and should resume the medication :lol: .

I have not made any adjustments yet, just done some checking out. Ignoring the jointer blades I checked the outfeed table for flatness with a straight rule - both length and width at several points for each. The table appears to be flat. Then moving a blade to TDC I rested one end of the straight edge on the blade at the back and the other end at the furtherest point on the outfeed table. Measuring the gap at the blade end it is 18/1000". Repeating the proceedure for the front side of the machine the gap is 27/1000" - a difference of 9/1000" over 10". If my calcualtion are correct this is only about .23mm. If this is correct then for every 4 passes during the flattening process I will have a difference between the sides of 1mm.

To correct this I assume that I only have to adjust the two bolts - part numbers 129 in the magnificient manual.

WRT the input roller and output rollers on the thicknesser. Accessing them from the top after swinging the jointer tables away, I am unable to lift them by hand at all. Should they be this tight. I suspect not, and that I am most probably just clamping the timber to the thicknessing table as it will not feed when set to miss the cutting blades. I will loosen all four nuts to reduce the pressure on the springs. I suspect that this is going to take a bit of trial and error.

Sorry for cornering you like this, but the documentation is so bad, and some of us down here are thick enough to be put through the thicknesser :? .
 

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John, I have had a look at my machine with your response in mind, and all I can say is that if you enjoy this then you are a very sick man and should resume the medication
Bob, I only enjoy it when I'm getting somewhere :D :D .

Sorry for cornering you like this, but the documentation is so bad, and some of us down here are thick enough to be put through the thicknesser
I think everyone on this planet would need to go through the thicknesser after reading it :D :D .
It's very poorly written isn't it, and although the Axminster version is an improvement it leaves a lot to be desired :roll: .

I suspected that your tables would be flat and not warped, which is great news because you have a true base to work from to get the machine working really well.

I am unable to lift them by hand at all. Should they be this tight. I suspect not, and that I am most probably just clamping the timber to the thicknessing table as it will not feed when set to miss the cutting blades. I will loosen all four nuts to reduce the pressure on the springs. I suspect that this is going to take a bit of trial and error.

You should be able to lift them by hand, do you go fishing :?: I ask because if you do you may have a spring weighing scale, you know the ones I mean, put the hook through the fishes mouth so to speak and lift it up and read the weight from the scale. you could use this to measure the tension on each side of the in & out feed rollers to help you get even tension on the springs.


To correct this I assume that I only have to adjust the two bolts - part numbers 129 in the magnificient manual.

This is correct Bob, just be careful that both bolts are moved the same amount, because when you lock the table if one bolt is set higher or lower than the other when you lock the table it can distort it. You can check this if you look at the bolts closely when you lock the table.

P.S. Don,t forget to lock the tables everytime before you take a measurement or check.
let me know how you get on :)
 
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The continuing saga. I only hope others benefit from our dialogue as I can't believe we are the only ones with this issue.

Right! I now have the input and output tables all set up for the jointer. Not satisfied with the thicknesser. I loosened all four nuts for the input and output roller. This improved the situation. That is, I don't have to push as hard :roll: . I used the scales as you suggested - only go to 25lb. I don't catch fish bigger than this :D .

The front side of the output roller starts to move at about 18lb (~8.5Kg). The other three measurements are beyond the scale. I am starting to wonder if the drive chain could be too tight and holding the input roller and back side of the output roller down. I have loosened the nuts on the output roller to the extent that I can adjust them with my fingers. I would imagine that this is too loose and may allow them to unwind. Still can't lift this roller by hand.

Do you have measurements for your adjustments, or did you just go on experience. Originally I could see sawdust on only one part of the input roller. Now it is across the whole roller, so some change has occurred with the "grip" on the board.

Any more suggestions? Sure would help if information was provided in the manual for the setup. I dread having something fail and having to get the unit serviced. I suspect that the importers information is no better than what we have. BTW, here is where the information is on where it is manufactured. The device is an ML392 which is what it is sold as in Aus.

http://www.made-in-china.com/products/c ... iture.html
 

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Felix":32bils87 said:
The continuing saga. I only hope others benefit from our dialogue as I can't believe we are the only ones with this issue.
Don't know about anyone else, but I'm enjoying the detective work to track down the problem. You should have a decent manual written by the end at this rate to boot. :D Oh, and welcome to the forum, btw.

Cheers, Alf
 

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Alf":3f961bio said:
Felix":3f961bio said:
The continuing saga. I only hope others benefit from our dialogue as I can't believe we are the only ones with this issue.
Don't know about anyone else, but I'm enjoying the detective work to track down the problem. You should have a decent manual written by the end at this rate to boot. :D Oh, and welcome to the forum, btw.

Cheers, Alf
:lol: :lol: :lol:
 

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Bob,
Forgive me if I've got this wrong, are you saying you cannot lift the outfeed roller at all by hand :?: , if so have you tried releasing the bolts and springs all together and see if the roller lifts freely, it could be the roller is jammed in some way in it's housing.

In regard to the chain tension mine has a spring loaded tensioner which in theory should adjust when the either or both feed rollers lift or lower and it works OK.

I assume from your post you now have the planer setup OK now :) :?:
 
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Anonymous

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The planer is all set up and ready to go! :D

The problem with the thicknesser rollers is the same for input and output. I have removed the nut and spring from the front side of the output roller and can lift that end OK. Loosened the back end of the roller and was only able to lift it after taking the tension off the drive chain tension spring. I have loosened the two nuts on the input roller and can JUST move it with my hands. Its almost as though the springs are too strong. How much thread do you have below the nuts on your two rollers.

Really appreciate your help here John.
 

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Felix":2sgktg2r said:
Its almost as though the springs are too strong. How much thread do you have below the nuts on your two rollers.
Really appreciate your help here John.

Bob, I'm going to take the covers of mine and do some investigating, I have a feeling the chain tensioner is too strong.

Incidentally Bob, When your feeding the timber in the thicknesser, how much or little are you wanting to remove on the setting guide :?:

I have checked the chain tensioner on my own machine and it has a huuuuuge impact on the ability to lift the in & out rollers, so as I suspect there is way to much tension on yours.

Perhaps a temp bracket or longer/softer spring to ease the tension to try. Also I have noticed that as the tensioner is putting tension allready on both rollers, the pressure from the springs needs to be less than on the other side.

Just a thought here. :idea: If the tensioner's job is only has to keep the chain tensioned, then you could adjust all the tensions on the rollers by all for springs and just have the tensioner on a soft spring setting just to keep the chain from producing backlash etc. The feed mechanism is not revolving at any real speed so I think this will work.

Just a curious :?: Do you know what the blade projection from the cutter block is using your setting tool, and is it the same tool as the pic in the Axminster Manual :?:
 
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