At least I might be able to start a scrap metal business...

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Myfordman

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WaldoBarnstormer":1jwfhyt7 said:
I'm looking to see if I have a bsw tap to clear out the holes, but re tapping is an option.

Considering the previous owners seem to have been running the saw back to front, it's anyone guess what happened to these lol

I could loan you bsw taps if it helps. PM me with your address if you like.

Bob
 

WaldoBarnstormer

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Bob..
Thanks, that is INCREDIBLY generous of you.

I live in the midlands though, so by the time we post them back and forth it would cost about half the price of a little cheap set. As I'll probably only ever use them a few times a cheap set would probably suffice for me.

But once again, may thanks for your offer.
 

WaldoBarnstormer

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Got the main top off now and confirmed that there are 2 cracks running under the front and rear fence rail mount holes on the right hand side. Not great news.. hopefully they don't explode when I go to refit the fence rail.
 

WaldoBarnstormer

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Just came in to have a quick read through on how to remove the main mechanism now as I can't see how the raise lower mech comes off which as far as I can tell is whats obstructing the whole thing from just lifting out.
 

WaldoBarnstormer

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Sadly stop drilling won't fix these cracks... I've got a feeling that when it was moved it was probably dragged by the fence rails or one of the table extensions (hence the damaged bolts there as well).

I'll have a ponder before it goes back together.. best case is it still holds fine and it's not an issue for several more years.. I may end up going from 3/8 to a longer M8 and just run it through the hole and secure with a washer and lock-nut as an alternative

20200718_144325.jpg

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WaldoBarnstormer

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WaldoBarnstormer":fib67s46 said:
Just came in to have a quick read through on how to remove the main mechanism now as I can't see how the raise lower mech comes off which as far as I can tell is whats obstructing the whole thing from just lifting out.

Just in case anyone from the future is following this thread, this is what you need to unscrew to remove the rise/lower gear in order to get the main trunion out.

Apparently it is a 1/4" gas pip screw!

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WaldoBarnstormer

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So that's about 90% of the disassembly completed! I still have the fence to dismantle, tilt mech to remove, and then decide if I'm going to pull the spindle and raise/lower mech apart. They are running really nicely on the bearings - zero play and sounding smooth so I'm tempted to leave them as is. Now that I know how to remove both items neither is a MASSIVE job should the need arise in the future, plus if I end up keeping the saw it will only ever be subject to pretty light work.

20200718_164246.jpg

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20200718_160622.jpg



So.. I have another couple of quick questions

This is the riving knife bracket I have but I have no riving knife or crown guard.

20200718_144057.jpg


From what I've read in other threads there are a couple of variants available for this saw. Depending on the saw age/brackets fitted determines which knife will fit. Is anyone able to tell me which of the following 2 designs fits this bracket? Thanks.

riving.jpg


Also, to complete the strip and start prep for painting I really need to remove this pivot pin. Has anyone got any tips or nightmare stories about taking these parts apart? I'am assuming it will just drift out but I'd rather ask first before I turn a pin into a rivet!

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ManowarDave

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Hi Waldo,

For the riving knife bracket you have which lifts with the blade, you want the drawing on the right with the long slot at the top.

There are two set screws to back off/remove before drifting that main pivot pin out. Drift it out with a piece of wood to avoid any damage.
It might need a soak in some penetrating oil first.

You can see where they are located in this pic.

20200718_214129.jpg


Dave
 

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WaldoBarnstormer

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Dave.. Thanks for the good info..

I think it was your sketchup drawings I have for both knives. Did you manage to get one made for your saw in the end? If so do you know what they made it from? I hear mild steel bends too easily.
I'll need to find somewhere that can cut one for me, either that or I get the grinder and hand files out.

And the info about the set screws was most useful!
 

WaldoBarnstormer

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Just sent an email to SharkGuard asking for a price on one of their riving knives and crown guards... They look excellent items but it's gonna be a lot of £££
 

ManowarDave

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Hi Waldo,

My splitter was 304 stainless. It was what they had in the right thickness at the time. Not bent yet :D

Dave
 

WaldoBarnstormer

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Been a bit busy lately and not able to get much done..

Started the cleaning and painting tho... Halfway through the priming

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WaldoBarnstormer

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I haven't updated this thread for ages but thought I'd post a few new pics..
Got the majority of the painting done and reassembly is 90% complete.

Going on from these pics I've repainted the cast top now as well and mounted the new single phase motor.. Everything seems to be working fine, except I'll need to notch the bottom support a little as the motor capacitor fouls, preventing the full 45 degree tilt being achieved.

Just got the guide rails and fence to do now and we should be finished :)

Project stalled for months as I simply ran out of time/space...

Next decision now is, once completed... do I keep it or sell it?
 

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