Arundel J4 Senior - chuck removal

[Duncan L]

Hello, i have recently been given what i believe is an Arundel J4 Senior. Although it is fully working order, it is in need of some TLC as you will see from the attached pictures. I am sure i will have plenty of questions as i complete the restoration, but first off; please can someone tell me how to remove the chuck and the bowl plate? Many thanks

 

[Jacob]

Hello, i have recently been given what i believe is an Arundel J4 Senior. Although it is fully working order, it is in need of some TLC as you will see from the attached pictures. I am sure i will have plenty of questions as i complete the restoration, but first off; please can someone tell me how to remove the chuck and the bowl plate? Many thanks

An excellent lathe.
The centre comes out if you slip a bar into the opposite end of the spindle and tap it. If you can't find a suitable bar then two 6" nails will do, with their heads filed off.
The left face plate is left handed thread. To get it off you need the other face plate on the inboard end and you work one against the other until they are both loose. They need fibre washers in place or it can be much more difficult.
I do it by putting a nut and bolt through one of the outer holes in each plate. Then hold one face plate and turn it sharply so that the nut in the other hits the edge of a bolster chisel or similar, which you hold in place.
Make sure you are knocking it the right way, bearing in mind the opposite thread directions.
Might take a few goes and a squirt of WD40, touch of heat, etc
Whatever you do - don't attack it with Mole grips, Stillsons, hammers, wedges etc you could mark and damage it.
If you haven't got the inboard faceplate I'd strongly advise buying one first, before you attempt to remove the left hand one, or it could be difficult.

 

[Duncan L]

An excellent lathe.
The centre comes out if you slip a bar into the opposite end of the spindle and tap it. If you can't find a suitable bar then two 6" nails will do, with their heads filed off.
The left face plate is left handed thread. To get it off you need the other face plate on the inboard end and you work one against the other until they are both loose. They need fibre washers in place or it can be much more difficult.
I do it by putting a nut and bolt through one of the outer holes in each plate. Then hold one face plate and turn it sharply so that the nut in the other hits the edge of a bolster chisel or similar, which you hold in place.
Make sure you are knocking it the right way, bearing in mind the opposite thread directions.
Might take a few goes and a squirt of WD40, touch of heat, etc
Whatever you do - don't attack it with Mole grips, Stillsons, hammers, wedges etc you could mark and damage it.
If you haven't got the inboard faceplate I'd strongly advise buying one first, before you attempt to remove the left hand one, or it could be difficult.

Thanks Jacob. Did you change your mind about the model? i thought you put that you thought it was a Junior.
Thanks for the advice, i will have a look at that this evening. Am i correct in thinking that the chuck just slots in? Is there any retaining screw or anything?

 

[Jacob]

Thanks Jacob. Did you change your mind about the model? i thought you put that you thought it was a Junior.

Yes it's the Senior. I thought only the junior was blue. Mine's grey with rust effects.

Thanks for the advice, i will have a look at that this evening. Am i correct in thinking that the chuck just slots in? Is there any retaining screw or anything?

Do you mean the drive centre? It's a morse taper friction fit. They can be tight if left for a long time.

http://www.lathes.co.uk/arundel/page3.html

 

[Duncan L]

Yes it's the Senior. I though only the junior was blue. Mine's grey with rust effects.

Do you mean the drive centre? It's a morse taper friction fit. They can be tight if left for a long time.

http://www.lathes.co.uk/arundel/page3.html

Excellent, I have found a paint match so plan to rub it down and repaint it as well.
If the drive centre is the piece that connects with the wood, then yes that is what i mean. Afraid, i do not know all the correct terminology for the various parts yet. I need to find a labled diagram. Do you know if you can get a user manual for this model anywhere? I have done a load of google searches but no luck.

Do you know the internal diameter of the hole through the spindle?

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Duncan, get a copy of Woodturning: A Foundation Course (Woodturning Woodturning), Keith Rowley, Good C 9781861081148 | eBay (others available) before you go much further. It'll be money well spent.

 

[Duncan L]

Duncan, get a copy of Woodturning: A Foundation Course (Woodturning Woodturning), Keith Rowley, Good C 9781861081148 | eBay (others available) before you go much further. It'll be money well spent.

Thanks, i will order it now

 

[Jacob]

Excellent, I have found a paint match so plan to rub it down and repaint it as well.
If the drive centre is the piece that connects with the wood, then yes that is what i mean. Afraid, i do not know all the correct terminology for the various parts yet. I need to find a labled diagram. Do you know if you can get a user manual for this model anywhere? I have done a load of google searches but no luck.

Do you know the internal diameter of the hole through the spindle?

Hole through spindle and tail stock about 9mm diameter
Tail stock No.1 Morse taper
Head stock No.2 " "
Outboard headstock thread LH M25x 2.5mm
Inboard 30 x 3.5
Your machine might be different so check first.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Don't presume on the internal diameter of the head/tailstock - mine are both MT2, but internally the tailstock is smaller - 9mm and 8mm iirc.

 

[Duncan L]

Hole through spindle and tail stock about 9mm diameter
Tail stock No.1 Morse taper
Head stock No.2 " "
Outboard headstock thread LH M25x 2.5mm
Inboard 30 x 3.5
Your machine might be different so check first.

Thanks Jacob, this is all really helpful. Am I correct in assuming that the tailstock centre should also tap out?

 

[Duncan L]

Don't presume on the internal diameter of the head/tailstock - mine are both MT2, but internally the tailstock is smaller - 9mm and 8mm iirc.

Thanks Phil, I am digging out some steel rod to tap out the drive centre and tail stock centre and wanted to look for roughly the correct size.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Smaller is fine so long as the thing isn't jammed solid. If you make your own knockout bars/centre hammers (call them what you will) you can buy small cast iron/steel balls cheaply (30mm - 40mm) from steel merchants to drill and epoxy to the end of the bar to give it enough weight. Yes, both centres knock out.

 

[Deckerwoodworking]

I have original literature on all ARUNDLE lathes . Please make contact via coronetwoodworking.co.uk Derek

 

[Duncan L]

I have original literature on all ARUNDLE lathes . Please make contact via coronetwoodworking.co.uk Derek

Amazing! Thanks Derek, I will drop you an email

 

[Duncan L]

@Jacob @Phil Pascoe I made up an extended centre punch and both centres knocked out reasonably easily. Thanks for the advice. I have nearly finished cleaning up the metal work and will be moving on to the bench soon. Happy to post pictures if anyone is interested?