Articulated Hollowing Rig

[Philip Streeting]

A while back I bought the following rig from the US.

http://monster-lathe-tools.com/cart.php?target=product&product_id=262&category_id=63

I have been having a go now and then with both the supplied tools and my own hollowers attached in a temporary manner. The Keltons seem to be the most promising at present but they all work. I will need to have some mods made to make use of some of the tools which have been de-handled.

Anyway the rig is brilliant to use and I have posted a vid showing various tools in use on my new Blog

 

[Philip Streeting]

Can't see why the links do not work!

 

[loz]

A while back I bought the following rig from the US.

http://monster-lathe-tools.com/cart.php?target=product&product_id=262&category_id=63

I have been having a go now and then with both the supplied tools and my own hollowers attached in a temporary manner. The keltons seem to be the most promsing at present but the all work. I will need to have some mods made to make use of some of the tools which have been de-handled.

Anyway the rig is brilliant to use and I have posted a vid showing various tols in use on my new Blog

http://philipstreeting.blogspot.com/

I have no idea either Phil - But looks ok when quoted.

Laurence

 

[myturn]

Can't see why the links do not work!

Do you have bbcode disabled in your profile perhaps, or did you disable it when you created the post?

Good video.

I have a few questions for you:

Where did you get the light that moved with the hollower?

Do you use the laser attachment?

Does the hollowing rig take hollowers of different shaft diameters?
I have a Munro and Woodcut Flexi and I'm wondering if the arm will take the smaller Woodcut.

Do you see any reason why the rig can't be used outboard?
I get back-ache leaning over the bed and am looking for a new lathe with swivel head specifically for this. (I don't have the room to work from the end of the bed).

thanks

Mick

 

[Philip Streeting]

TY BB code was disabled.

 

[Philip Streeting]

Mick,

The light is a cheapo IKEA low voltage clip on LED type work light. I also have a flexible battery driven version from EBay. I have been using the rig with the headstock swivelled but I'm yet to discover the ideal position for the rig to get a smooth action. Some of the clips were taken with the head swivelled - I couldn't be bothered at the time to keep swapping the position of the rig, accurately, on the bed and the position of the arm either side of the bed - if that makes sense - when swapping between tool types and shaft lengths.

As far as fitting alternative tools is concerned sleeves or turning tool shafts down to fit the existing fitting would be the answer I guess.

Main benefits I can gauge so far is hollowing can be easily achieved for those with grip, shakes, low strength and bad back problems. I don't have or want to have the time to acquire the instinctive approach to hollowing and tool control. This method short circuits the learning curve and with little possibility of catches etc when set up properly - you can just concentrate on shapes without the nervous tension involved with the instictive method.

The laser guide is great as well.

Phil

 

[myturn]

Phil,

I understand from what you are saying that the rig will not do anything I can't (hopefully) learn to do without it, but it will potentially make the hollowing process quicker, easier and less traumatic (for both me and the wood).

That's what I figured and I'll see how I get on with a swivelling head first.

I have a couple of articulated lights but something that moves with the tool would be a lot better as I find I am always in the way of the light. I tried a small torch on the hollower shaft inside the wood but that didn't work very well.

I can see the benefit of the laser as I am continually stopping the lathe to measure with calipers or, more dangerously, reaching in with my fingers while it's turning #-o
I might look at just getting the laser attachment as that will always be useful and the rig can always be added later.

thanks for the info

 

[johnny.t.]

Phil, that monster rig looks great, I'm so pleased you posted the video as I have a home made Jamieson type captured bar type rig and use my Munro tool in it, I was thinking I had to redesign it as it does vibrate a little but seeing you use your Munro in your rig I instantly heard the familiar sound! It looks like I need to make/get a different style of cutter.

Do you see any advantage of the articulated system over the captured bar type? I assume it would be even easier to 'steer' as you don't have the friction from the second toolrest. A very helpful video, thanks

JT

 

[Paul.J]

Johnny t wrote

I assume it would be even easier to 'steer' as you don't have the friction from the second toolrest. A very helpful video, thanks

You need to put some candlewax on the rests and the tool itself Johnny.
It does help a lot i found,especially when you are doing the finer finish cuts

 

[Philip Streeting]

I have never used fresh unseasoned wood - I always buy prepared blanks. Next short vid series will show my efforts with the rig to produce my first true hollow form. Might be interesting! Success or failure or something in between!

Phil

 

[Richard Kennedy]

Hi Phil

Great video I am impressed by the arms capabilities I was wondering about this type of thing for some ideas I have had whilst I can hollow out to a set thickness for the most part successfully this seems to offer a more chance of success.

How deep do you think you could go before loosing the control or getting chatter?

Great to see you have a new Blog going!

Richard

 

[Paul.J]

If you have the know how you can make your own rig.
Take a look here

 

[Philip Streeting]

Hi Richard,

I seem to remember seeing a ratio somewhere for maximum depths that can be achieved/recommended. I think it was something like 12x (maybe 15x?) shaft diameter but from my limited experience the type or style of cutting tip may also play a part.

In the past when I knew nothing much about turning (still partially true) I managed to turn a 10" deep cylindrical vase shape with a 12" long 1/2" dia shaft tool where just the handle plus a bit was left outside the form. The form did fly off a couple of times but the adrenalin rush was great! After doing the basic hollowing I bought a Texan shaft and had a scraper made to fit to clean up the inside. This was learning (or not) by doing rather than by instruction.

I haven't yet done any deep hollowing with the rig but from limited hand held tool experiences the Munro seems to go deeper than some thicker shaft diameter tools. I think a hollowing specialist would be able to answer this question better than I. The large Keltons will also go deep but I've had regular catches with them probably because I haven't held the tools in the correct position (tucked into my side etc) to counteract the forces applied at the cutting point.

The advantage of this rig is the tool is held in a fixed postion on the centre line so the tip presentation is always the same each time you enter the form. You also rotate and fix the tool tip angle for optimum cutting postion i.e. heavy or light cuts. The laser offers an accurate indication of where you are inside the form. I do not know if all this applies to the captive gate style rig but my guess is it is probably much the same but the rig is probably designed for deeper hollowing than mine.

Phil

 

[skeetoids]

Hi Phil,

Is there a possibility that you will be creating another piece in your fetish series? I find them all very challenging and inspiring in a number of ways and it would be great to be able to appreciate another of your contmeporary pieces from this series.

Also, did you ever progress with your last WIP piece on your previous forum? The bowl that had the large cut out sections.

Cheers,

Lee.

 

[Philip Streeting]

Hi Lee,

Thanks for your interest and yes I m still working on some pieces and will post them sometime. I am learning how to make some bronze and glass components to use with them and this takes some time to perfect. The bowl is still not completed but I may go back to it later - it was more an excercise in learning with a new carver and bits than a path to a finished piece.

Good to see you are making progress with your turning.

Phil

 

[Philip Streeting]

Hi Lee,

Thanks for your interest and yes I m still working on some pieces and will post them sometime. I am learning how to make some bronze and glass components to use with them and this takes some time to perfect. The bowl is still not completed but I may go back to it later - it was more an excercise in learning with a new carver and bits than a path to a finished piece.

Good to see you are making progress with your turning.

Phil

 

[Philip Streeting]

Second vid

http://philipstreeting.blogspot.com/2011/01/monster-again.html

 

[Richard Kennedy]

Hi Phil Thanks for posting the vid Looks like the system is going to make hollowing easy for you. I guess the big advantage is having the tool set to cut so simply you can concentrate more of form and thickness etc I am thinking about investigating building a version You have sold me the idea!

 

[Philip Streeting]

Richard,

It is interesting to note you have been asking members on another Forum for help in ideas and sourcing materials to simulate this rig. Firstly your estimate of the cost of buying the Monster from the US is not the £300 you have suggested. There is a $100 post and packing fee and VAT plus a handling charge when it arrives here. The overall cost is approaching £450.

If you want to make a rig the one suggested above would be an easier and less expensive prospect i.e. the Lyle Jamieson.

Phil

 

[Paul.J]

Plus you are using an 18mm/3/4" bar which can be increased to 1-1/8",both give less chatter than the other tools.
When Mike Swain showed me the LJ rig he also showed me a couple pieces of his work.They were vessels that were about 1.5mm thick.