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My homemade router table

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ander11

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As long as you keep the bottom of your router table open, and can easily reach under the top to access the router, this will work. There are some nice features of the TRA001 that I like when using it as a hand-held router that make it difficult when using it in a router table. The most annoying feature is having to manually turn off the power switch in order to change a cutter. This is not a problem when it's not in a table, but if access under a table is limited, then fiddling with the power switch can be a pain.

You will have to remove the plunge return spring from the router when using it upside down in a table since gravity will be performing the function of the spring. There are several good instruction guides that explain how to do this. If I can find it, I will post it here. I do remember, it was easy to do.
I would put a door on it with clear laminate for easy access with a magnetic catch
 

weirdbeardmt

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Have received some bits but unfortunately not had any time to do anything with them. First view on this UKJ plate is that it's seriously chunky.
 

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MikeK

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Have received some bits but unfortunately not had any time to do anything with them. First view on this UKJ plate is that it's seriously chunky.
That is a nice sturdy plate. Are you sure the TRA001 will attach to the UJK router plate? I didn't see any Triton routers listed in the compatibility chart. Assuming the mounting plate will work, or you can have one made, are you going to drill the hole for the adjustment tool?
 

weirdbeardmt

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I should really have checked the compatibility chart beforehand... as I made the same discovery; but as yet not married up the Triton to the plate... I really hope it does fit easily. And yes, if it will go in then I will have to drill for the adjustment tool.
 

weirdbeardmt

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Having never done this before, does anyone have any tips / approach to routing out the hole for the insert?

Axminster don't have a jig or guide for it and obviously I want it to fit snugly in the top. Have seen manufacturers provide templates... but that looks like a lot of cash for a bit of MDF...


And is a template router bit another way of saying flush trim bit?

I was assuming a normal straight bit in a guide bush on a template ought to do it (assuming I make a template and/or possibly 3d print one.)

Is there a guide or standard to how much 'shelf' (rebate I guess?) should be left for the plate to sit on? Or just 'as much as possible' ? The ones like this seem to leave quite a narrow ledge... UJK Professional Laminated Router Table Top... but maybe that's just to accommodate all sized routers?
 

weirdbeardmt

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I should really have checked the compatibility chart beforehand... as I made the same discovery; but as yet not married up the Triton to the plate... I really hope it does fit easily. And yes, if it will go in then I will have to drill for the adjustment tool.
Turns out Triton TRA001 is on the compatibility list, but for the base... UJK Universal Sub-Base... for the manual for the plate itself it's not listed. Maybe it hasn't been updated.
 

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Sandyn

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I found it a bit irritating that Triton don't include a template for the holes. There is a drawings in the user manual, but it doesn't dimension the winder hole. How difficult would it have been to simply include a paper template and fully dimension the manual. I complained, and got this reply:-
"""
I am really sorry but we do not have access to these dimensions as we purchase the TRA001 from a manufacturer and this type of information is not something we can access.
I do apologies for not being able to be of more assistance on this occasion and hope you are able to proceed with your project.
"""
What a lot of B.S.!
so I ended up making my own template drawing, but haven't verified it yet.
 

Bigbadmarky

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I've recently been tinkering with my 'router table'. I say router table in " as its more of a bodge built to a really low budget.
I'm using the Triton JOF001 1/2" router (£135 from Screwfix) with a cheap and cheerful insert plate from eBay (I think it cost about £20 from China). The JOF is the lower powered option but still takes the 1/2" bits and includes the lifting mechanism which can be adjusted from above. Its the lower power option of the three in the range but has more than enough ummph for the job I need it for. I have spent the weekend routing tenons in beech and didn't miss a beat!
I have bodged a short power extension socket with an NVR switch to cut power rather than reaching underneath. That way I can set up the router and switch it on and off as needed from the side of the table. PLEASE NOTE: DON'T PLAY WITH ELECTRICS UNLESS YOU KNOW WHAT YOUR ARE DOING!

I fitted my make shift fence over the weekend. I bought some T track from eBay and bodged a fence from some reclaimed 18mm MDF. I might run an extra piece of T track in the fence for feather boards etc but I'm not sure yet. I might also put a sacrificial face to the fence for smaller jobs.

Next I'm thinking about dust extraction. I think I'll run a flexible hose from the back of the fence and from the dust outlet on the router. That should cover all bases.

Cheers,
Mark
 

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billw

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Well despite saying you bodged the whole thing it looks perfectly functional and that's the main thing!
 

Peter Sefton

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Having never done this before, does anyone have any tips / approach to routing out the hole for the insert?

Axminster don't have a jig or guide for it and obviously I want it to fit snugly in the top. Have seen manufacturers provide templates... but that looks like a lot of cash for a bit of MDF...


And is a template router bit another way of saying flush trim bit?

I was assuming a normal straight bit in a guide bush on a template ought to do it (assuming I make a template and/or possibly 3d print one.)

Is there a guide or standard to how much 'shelf' (rebate I guess?) should be left for the plate to sit on? Or just 'as much as possible' ? The ones like this seem to leave quite a narrow ledge... UJK Professional Laminated Router Table Top... but maybe that's just to accommodate all sized routers?
It looks like the templates you have linked to are all the standard American size, designed for Incra, JessEm, Woodpeckers this is the same size as the one we have. It looks like Infinity have a very similar insert pad to our Stainless Steel version, these are good for MDF table tops as they stop the leveling screws eating into the MDF core over time through vibration.

The UJK lift is an unusual size and I don't believe these templates will help you.

Cheers Peter
 

eezageeza

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I found it a bit irritating that Triton don't include a template for the holes. There is a drawings in the user manual, but it doesn't dimension the winder hole. How difficult would it have been to simply include a paper template and fully dimension the manual. I complained, and got this reply:-
"""
I am really sorry but we do not have access to these dimensions as we purchase the TRA001 from a manufacturer and this type of information is not something we can access.
I do apologies for not being able to be of more assistance on this occasion and hope you are able to proceed with your project.
"""
What a lot of B.S.!
so I ended up making my own template drawing, but haven't verified it yet.
I have my TRA001 mounted on a third party plate, and had to drill holes for the screws and adjusting rod.
From memory I think the trick was to remove the plastic plate from the base of the router, and use that as a template.
 

Spectric

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As long as you keep the bottom of your router table open, and can easily reach under the top to access the router, this will work. There are some nice features of the TRA001 that I like when using it as a hand-held router that make it difficult when using it in a router table. The most annoying feature is having to manually turn off the power switch in order to change a cutter. This is not a problem when it's not in a table, but if access under a table is limited, then fiddling with the power switch can be a pain.
That power switch was the first thing that had to go, it is not safe unless you have easily access to another power switch or have wired in a proper E stop. It is a pain to access and once table mounted not needed. Originally it prevents the power being on with the router fully raised for a bit change, personally I always ensure the power is OFF at source and before turning the router back on I make sure the bit is free to turn. To remove the spring there is a single screw holding a black cap in place, remove screw, rotate cap slightly and spring is out. Remove that plastic base completely as it gives that little extra lift.
 

Sandyn

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I have my TRA001 mounted on a third party plate, and had to drill holes for the screws and adjusting rod.
From memory I think the trick was to remove the plastic plate from the base of the router, and use that as a template.
I think that's the way to do it. I used the plastic base to draw up the template. Some day I will get an aluminium plate and drill it myself. You can also use the large base plate which comes with the router, but it's a bit thin and awkward to incorporate into the table.
 

weirdbeardmt

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I fitted my make shift fence over the weekend. I bought some T track from eBay and bodged a fence from some reclaimed 18mm MDF. I might run an extra piece of T track in the fence for feather boards etc but I'm not sure yet. I might also put a sacrificial face to the fence for smaller jobs.
I would be more than happy with your "bodging" skills!

It looks like the templates you have linked to are all the standard American size, designed for Incra, JessEm, Woodpeckers this is the same size as the one we have. It looks like Infinity have a very similar insert pad to our Stainless Steel version, these are good for MDF table tops as they stop the leveling screws eating into the MDF core over time through vibration.
Thanks Peter, indeed I was referring them as examples of others I'd found but not any that matched the UKJ. It's looking like I'll have to make my own. I am curious about the SS insert... the internals of the worktop I'm using I guess is reconstituted chipboard type, which could easily suffer the same problem you describe. I'll see if anyone over here could machine one for me.
 

Paul M

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Having never done this before, does anyone have any tips / approach to routing out the hole for the insert?

Axminster don't have a jig or guide for it and obviously I want it to fit snugly in the top. Have seen manufacturers provide templates... but that looks like a lot of cash for a bit of MDF...


And is a template router bit another way of saying flush trim bit?

I was assuming a normal straight bit in a guide bush on a template ought to do it (assuming I make a template and/or possibly 3d print one.)

Is there a guide or standard to how much 'shelf' (rebate I guess?) should be left for the plate to sit on? Or just 'as much as possible' ? The ones like this seem to leave quite a narrow ledge... UJK Professional Laminated Router Table Top... but maybe that's just to accommodate all sized routers?
I placed my insert on the table and put18mm MDF around the plate, using double sided tape. Got a guided flush trim cutter from Wealdon, removed the insert plate then routed to depth (my insert is trend and they provided instructions). You will need to put a 18mm mdf block onto router base plate to prevent router from tipping, I then used jigsaw to cut inside hole. Chris Tribe has a video showing how he fitted a UJK insert to worktop. Photo shows my home built featherboards placed onto table (wrong direction). Took about 2 days to build and cost less than £100. Hope this helps
 

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pcb1962

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There have been some comments regarding removing the safety cover when mounting Triton routers in a table so that the switch can be left on while allowing the spindle to lock for changing bits. Removing safety features is a very risky business.
I don't think the switch interlock is actually a safety feature, rather it protects the machine from damage due to being powered up whilst the spindle is locked. I don't know what would happen if you did that and I'm not going to try it to see, I suspect the motor would just hum loudly and maybe blow a fuse, but modifying the machine to remove the interlock does not allow the cutter to rotate whilst the spindle is in the bit changing position and so doesn't really affect safety.
 

weirdbeardmt

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I placed my insert on the table and put18mm MDF around the plate, using double sided tape. Got a guided flush trim cutter from Wealdon, removed the insert plate then routed to depth (my insert is trend and they provided instructions). You will need to put a 18mm mdf block onto router base plate to prevent router from tipping, I then used jigsaw to cut inside hole. Chris Tribe has a video showing how he fitted a UJK insert to worktop. Photo shows my home built featherboards placed onto table (wrong direction). Took about 2 days to build and cost less than £100. Hope this helps
Thanks, that video is ideal and having watched it now understand what is meant by surrounding the plate etc. as opposed to having a template.

I need to check my router bits; by my reckoning (and by holding up a forstner bit I have) the radius of the corner on the UKJ insert is 15mm so his tip to use a bit the same size to get the corner is very simple. Not sure if I have a big enough bit to rout all the way through; but I do have a jigsaw.
 

mikej460

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I placed my insert on the table and put18mm MDF around the plate, using double sided tape. Got a guided flush trim cutter from Wealdon, removed the insert plate then routed to depth (my insert is trend and they provided instructions). You will need to put a 18mm mdf block onto router base plate to prevent router from tipping, I then used jigsaw to cut inside hole. Chris Tribe has a video showing how he fitted a UJK insert to worktop. Photo shows my home built featherboards placed onto table (wrong direction). Took about 2 days to build and cost less than £100. Hope this helps
Hi Paul, could you reply with a link to the cutter you bought please?
thanks
Mike
 

MikeK

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Thanks, that video is ideal and having watched it now understand what is meant by surrounding the plate etc. as opposed to having a template.

I need to check my router bits; by my reckoning (and by holding up a forstner bit I have) the radius of the corner on the UKJ insert is 15mm so his tip to use a bit the same size to get the corner is very simple. Not sure if I have a big enough bit to rout all the way through; but I do have a jigsaw.
I wouldn't bother using the router to cut through the table. Focus on a wide lip for the router plate to rest and use the jig saw to remove everything else, after you are done with the router. In use, the sawn edge of the hole will never be seen and all that matters is nothing obstructs the router after you attach it to the plate and lower the assembly into the table.
 
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