An insight into a door repair

[ChrisWiduWood]

Hello all,
I thought i might share how i repaired some garage doors recently.

The client asked me to repair 4 rotten garage doors, the garage is part of a big estate house and they decided they didnt want to replace them only do a decent repair job and re paint. after the carpentry was done we passed it on to the painters.

each of the doors strangely only had a 4" bottom rail, with a 2" add on which took the hinges. there were several rotten boards and missing parts and with the rails being a bit rubbish we decided to replace all rails and boards to 1/3 the length.

 

[ChrisWiduWood]

we started by running the track saw at 20mm depth (board thickness) at halfway in the mid rail and remove the boards

 

[ChrisWiduWood]

carefully removing the old tenon and wedges in the hinge side

 

[ChrisWiduWood]

and on the opposite side 300 mm up we cut a 30degree cut and routed out the waste

 

[ChrisWiduWood]

in Sapele we made the new bottom rail and tenons to fit the existing mortice

 

[ChrisWiduWood]

this way we can insert the tenon into the hinge side and the opposite side

 

[ChrisWiduWood]

we made a drip with a rebate to take the boards

 

[ChrisWiduWood]

 

[ChrisWiduWood]

we glued up the 30degree splice over the tenon with sapele

 

[ChrisWiduWood]

and although we weren't down to paint anything we always prime the tongues and behind any boards

 

[ChrisWiduWood]

Strangely it gave me much joy reusing the old wedges

 

[ChrisWiduWood]

a view of the splice and add on

 

[ChrisWiduWood]

on any tiber we didn't see fit to remove we used a resin based repair system

 

[ChrisWiduWood]

and this s the finish result all primed

 

[ChrisWiduWood]

i forgot to picture the 4 finished doors but here is 1 so you get the idea of the drip, its a much safer way than splicing all the boards, inevitably splicing two different timbers will always be visible or start to fail after months of weather