dvddvd
Established Member
Hi thanks for suggestion it would but think it would take more work than what I have at present. Also if it got damaged on travels it would be harder to fix
Alternative to Lamello zeta p2?
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Herr Nilsson
Established Member
There’s also a dowel option that doesn’t require the purchase of an expensive new tool, one might argue!? Discounting the Mafell DDF40 of course!
“The ixconnect SC 8/60 spreading connector is patented technology designed in house by Häfele which is ideal for connecting larger furniture items together.
One-piece connector
Can also be used as a cabinet connector for large furniutre items
Quick and easy installation
For concealed applications, only a Ø 6 mm drill hole for securing connector is visiable after installation.
Separable connection.
Insert in Ø 8 mm standard drill hole
For panel thickness min. 15 mm”
https://www.hafele.co.uk/en/product/spreading-connector-haefele-ixconnect-sc-8-60/P-01319387/
I spotted only yesterday that Häfele also do a jig for the ixconnectors:
“The ixconnect SC 8/60 spreading connector is patented technology designed in house by Häfele which is ideal for connecting larger furniture items together.
One-piece connector
Can also be used as a cabinet connector for large furniutre items
Quick and easy installation
For concealed applications, only a Ø 6 mm drill hole for securing connector is visiable after installation.
Separable connection.
Insert in Ø 8 mm standard drill hole
For panel thickness min. 15 mm”
https://www.hafele.co.uk/en/product/spreading-connector-haefele-ixconnect-sc-8-60/P-01319387/
I spotted only yesterday that Häfele also do a jig for the ixconnectors:
dvddvd
Established Member
Hi thanks never seen them before, only problem I could see is since they are fixed in one section and the other part goes into the timber. After time it could wear the timber, depending on how many times you lock it and undo it. Also might get tight if the timber swells a bit.
Think the clamex s20 is still number one at the moment as its 2 plastic parts and a cam locking so will pull the removable part in tight.
thanks though
Think the clamex s20 is still number one at the moment as its 2 plastic parts and a cam locking so will pull the removable part in tight.
thanks though
Herr Nilsson
Established Member
BTW, fantastic project! Impressive that you are trying to innovate.Iterate, iterate, iterate!
Agree that ixconnects aren’t the standalone solution here, especially on the top and bottom body sections. Clamex connectors will be virtually flush on both mating pieces, which is definitely desirable for the user. So Clamex pieces make a lot of sense when connecting a section as long as 430mm.
IMO, your approach to attaching/stabilising the neck with a metal truss rod running inside the neck is sound. However, you could mitigate welding on connectors by supplementing the connection with Ixconnectors, for example.
Agree that dowels in wood might eventually succumb to movement. Therefore, for the upper part of the fret board is there any benefit to using a really stable material such as Trespa/HPL? For example, 15mm thick HPL laminated onto a rounded off ash/tulip fretboard backing? If the neck connection were lap joints (with the top part of the lap being HPL) then 2x Ixconnectors in this part would be guaranteed to be stable, and the lower part of the lap (in ash/tulip) would house the metal rod. Whereby the rod would be purely for tensile strength, as the Ixconnectors would “pull” it altogether? No need to weld anything on to the metal rods - just friction fitted.
..Just more food for thought ;-)
Good luck
Agree that ixconnects aren’t the standalone solution here, especially on the top and bottom body sections. Clamex connectors will be virtually flush on both mating pieces, which is definitely desirable for the user. So Clamex pieces make a lot of sense when connecting a section as long as 430mm.
IMO, your approach to attaching/stabilising the neck with a metal truss rod running inside the neck is sound. However, you could mitigate welding on connectors by supplementing the connection with Ixconnectors, for example.
Agree that dowels in wood might eventually succumb to movement. Therefore, for the upper part of the fret board is there any benefit to using a really stable material such as Trespa/HPL? For example, 15mm thick HPL laminated onto a rounded off ash/tulip fretboard backing? If the neck connection were lap joints (with the top part of the lap being HPL) then 2x Ixconnectors in this part would be guaranteed to be stable, and the lower part of the lap (in ash/tulip) would house the metal rod. Whereby the rod would be purely for tensile strength, as the Ixconnectors would “pull” it altogether? No need to weld anything on to the metal rods - just friction fitted.
..Just more food for thought ;-)
Good luck
Orraloon
Established Member
The prototype looks pretty good but I think if the goal is to have something that will be small enough to fit in a carry on bag then perhaps forget about a conventional guitar shape. Use a strap and the guitar body shape is not required. It's just a hangover of history. Getting down to basics you have gone headless neck and saved some length but there is more length to be saved at the other end. The scale length can also be shorter and allow for the neck to be one piece so it stays strung all the time. I dont like the idea of a join in the neck and feel it will lead to problems down the track. Anyhow just my thoughts on it.
Regards
John
Regards
John
dvddvd
Established Member
Hi thanks, yes I've thrown the neck splitting into two out of the window and I'm going to build a shorter neck next time.
Keep the scale length , but less frets (I never use the higher frets) I worked out that by losing 50mm from the length of the neck and 4 higher frets I can keep the neck to 430mm same as the body length.
I still like the full size body as I never practice stood only seated. The two detachable pieces don't take much weight or baggage space.
I would love to have the neck on a hinge so it folds flat against the body back but have not found a suitable hinge yet? A double cranked hinge is the best I've found so far
Keep the scale length , but less frets (I never use the higher frets) I worked out that by losing 50mm from the length of the neck and 4 higher frets I can keep the neck to 430mm same as the body length.
I still like the full size body as I never practice stood only seated. The two detachable pieces don't take much weight or baggage space.
I would love to have the neck on a hinge so it folds flat against the body back but have not found a suitable hinge yet? A double cranked hinge is the best I've found so far
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