Aftermarket blade guides for bandsaws - necessary?

[KevM]

Has anybody got first hand experience of one of these, or seen one in the flesh? I first saw an ad in the back of one of the comics, I made an email enquiry to the company to see what they had to say about it, and was obviously so taken with the response that I forgot all about it for 6 months. Over £80 to solve a problem that I haven't noticed seems a bit steep to me. I was wondering if anybody had used one and experienced a moment of rapture?

I'll agree the blade guides on the Record 350S are a fiddle to set because of the way they're hidden behind the blade guard and the silly variety of hex bolt sizes used, but losing 50mm of cut (even if I'm never likely to use the full depth) seems like a lot to pay to solve a niggle. I also seem to remember a school of thought that suggests this type of bearing guide exerts greater point loading on the blade than the disc type used by Record?

http://www.yandles.co.uk/precision-roll ... 350/p14583

I'm sure I've seen something similar from Axminster, and various outfits in the US, but with a lack of clarity about which machines it might suit, whereas this one is aimed squarely at Record machines (by an ex-Record employee if memory serves) which seems like a smart move for the UK market.

These precision roller guides are manufactured in the UK specifically for the Record Power models BS300E - BS350S - BS400, refer to the chart below for models and recommended blade widths.


There is NO drilling, filing or any modification required unlike many cheap after market guides currently on the market.
Manufactured in steel and aluminium, these guides will make a very good saw even better, they give superb blade control have low heat generation to the blade and produce no sparks.


Both side support rollers and thrust roller are adjusted by a cam system giving precision setting longer, and allows full contact to the blade, this eliminates any blade twist, cutting contours will particularly appreciate the blade control.

Available in the upper guide assembly as this takes on 80% of the work.


*Please note fitting these guides will result in a loss of 50mm in depth of cut.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

I've not seen them and I have the 400 (and before that the 300) but to be fair I didn't experience any problems that could have been laid at the door of the guides.

One tip, the lower guides, there is a quantity of plastic guarding in front of the blade guides themselves which is ludicrously over zealous and much more to do with European safety red tape than anything useful. I strongly suggest you remove and reinstall in the bin. At least that way you can easily access the lower hex adjustment screws. You could also hacksaw the bottom 2 inches off the upper blade guard if you really wanted to improve access to the adjustment. Personally I have the 3 sizes of hex key (4,5,6mm) permanently next to my bandsaw and I've labelled the different sizes with a sharpie for quick reference. I can adjust them so fast its not necessary to worry about fettling the guards away. But I would remove the lower one, its totally superfluous. I'm talking about the little plastic thing.

 

[KevM]

Ditto - I've got a set of hex keys mounted on the side of my bandsaw - it still vexes me that they couldn't have settled on a single size.

I can't for the life of me think what I might be doing where I'd need the lower blade guard, and if I were that determined to maim myself I'm sure I'd find an easier way!

Mind you, I suppose as a manufacturer they have to cater for the types that will try and clear a blockage in a waste disposal unit/wood chipper/combine harvester while it's running - makes me think of the snow blower in OHMSS: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rIkwS664Qzw great family entertainment!

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Bob - I presume there is a first rule in design for eu safety regs. that says " no matter what else is done, the first and most important thing is to put something opaque in front of all cutting edges, as they are dangerous to look at." I've lost count of the number of "safety" guards I've binned over the years because of not being able to see through or past them.
I keep my hex keys on a magnet on the side of the saw as well.

 

[Alexam]

Do you guys use the 'usual' Hex keys, or have you got the 'T' hex longer reach ones? So the 4-5 and 6 are needed for the BS400?

Alex

 

[custard]

One tip, the lower guides, there is a quantity of plastic guarding in front of the blade guides themselves which is ludicrously over zealous and much more to do with European safety red tape than anything useful. I strongly suggest you remove and reinstall in the bin. At least that way you can easily access the lower hex adjustment screws. You could also hacksaw the bottom 2 inches off the upper blade guard if you really wanted to improve access to the adjustment. Personally I have the 3 sizes of hex key (4,5,6mm) permanently next to my bandsaw and I've labelled the different sizes with a sharpie for quick reference. I can adjust them so fast its not necessary to worry about fettling the guards away. But I would remove the lower one, its totally superfluous. I'm talking about the little plastic thing.

But Bob, I thought you had the greatest respect for Record's bandsaw wisdom!

I think in terms of bandsaws, you have to assume Record have more experience and superior knowledge as a premium manufacturer that own and manage the intellectual capital for their own designs. The fact they outsource some of the labour to cheaper economies doesn't detract from their understanding of the design principles in play. Therefore personally, I would always trust their advice, documented or otherwise

 

[KevM]

Do you guys use the 'usual' Hex keys, or have you got the 'T' hex longer reach ones? So the 4-5 and 6 are needed for the BS400?

Alex

Hi Alex, I've got a set of longer T-handled wrenches in their own little rack fixed to the side of the saw, they make life a little easier but they're far from essential and after the first little while you're not tinkering with the guides all the time. The nice thing is I alwasy know where my hex keys are for any job now!

I've also got a magnetic parts dish stuck on the side for a couple of spanners and the hex keys that came with the saw - again after the first little while you won't need these on a regular basis.

http://www.engelbert-strauss.co.uk/Tool ... 1-1-0.html

The plastic push stick that came with the 350S is intended to hang on a bolt at the back of the saw, I stuck a magnet on the stick so I can put it wherever I want.

Oh, and I've stuck a magnetic LED gooseneck lamp on the side - it's quite handy for that bit of extra light just where you need it. Maybe the 400 has an integral light, can't remember.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

One tip, the lower guides, there is a quantity of plastic guarding in front of the blade guides themselves which is ludicrously over zealous and much more to do with European safety red tape than anything useful. I strongly suggest you remove and reinstall in the bin. At least that way you can easily access the lower hex adjustment screws. You could also hacksaw the bottom 2 inches off the upper blade guard if you really wanted to improve access to the adjustment. Personally I have the 3 sizes of hex key (4,5,6mm) permanently next to my bandsaw and I've labelled the different sizes with a sharpie for quick reference. I can adjust them so fast its not necessary to worry about fettling the guards away. But I would remove the lower one, its totally superfluous. I'm talking about the little plastic thing.

But Bob, I thought you had the greatest respect for Record's bandsaw wisdom!

I think in terms of bandsaws, you have to assume Record have more experience and superior knowledge as a premium manufacturer that own and manage the intellectual capital for their own designs. The fact they outsource some of the labour to cheaper economies doesn't detract from their understanding of the design principles in play. Therefore personally, I would always trust their advice, documented or otherwise

I do Custard, in particular their wisdom to stay in business by complying with EU safety regs, despite how stupid they may be

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

Do you guys use the 'usual' Hex keys, or have you got the 'T' hex longer reach ones? So the 4-5 and 6 are needed for the BS400?

Alex

Hi Alex, I've got a set of longer T-handled wrenches in their own little rack fixed to the side of the saw, they make life a little easier but they're far from essential and after the first little while you're not tinkering with the guides all the time. The nice thing is I alwasy know where my hex keys are for any job now!

I've also got a magnetic parts dish stuck on the side for a couple of spanners and the hex keys that came with the saw - again after the first little while you won't need these on a regular basis.

http://www.engelbert-strauss.co.uk/Tool ... 1-1-0.html

The plastic push stick that came with the 350S is intended to hang on a bolt at the back of the saw, I stuck a magnet on the stick so I can put it wherever I want.

Oh, and I've stuck a magnetic LED gooseneck lamp on the side - it's quite handy for that bit of extra light just where you need it. Maybe the 400 has an integral light, can't remember.

Me too on the longer Hex spanners, also with ball ends so you don't need to be square on, just a tad easier that's all.

The 400 doesn't have an integral light. The 5mm key does nearly all the adjustment on the 400. 6mm for the strap that keeps the tables aligned and 4mm for lower thrust bearing locknut. The upper guides can be adjusted individually or all three at once if they're already set correctly relative to each other ie same blade width but you wanted to back it off completely while doing tracking or tension etc.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

Bob - I presume there is a first rule in design for eu safety regs. that says " no matter what else is done, the first and most important thing is to put something opaque in front of all cutting edges, as they are dangerous to look at." I've lost count of the number of "safety" guards I've binned over the years because of not being able to see through or past them.
I keep my hex keys on a magnet on the side of the saw as well.

I know its insane isn't it. Nanny state disappeared up its own backside!

 

[Charlie Woody]

Do you guys use the 'usual' Hex keys, or have you got the 'T' hex longer reach ones? So the 4-5 and 6 are needed for the BS400?

Alex

Oh, and I've stuck a magnetic LED gooseneck lamp on the side - it's quite handy for that bit of extra light just where you need it. Maybe the 400 has an integral light, can't remember.

I have been looking for one of those, if not expensive, can you remember where you got it please?

 

[KevM]

Hi Charlie,

It's one of these from Lee Valley and it's great!

http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware/pa ... at=53&ap=1

I bought 2 of them on my last trip to the US; I suspect shipping and import charges would make them prohibitively expensive. They may be available on Ebay unless they're made exclusively for LV - after all they're made in China, the proud home of state sponsored intellectual property theft.

Kev

 

[Charlie Woody]

Hi Charlie,

It's one of these from Lee Valley and it's great!

http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware/pa ... at=53&ap=1

I bought 2 of them on my last trip to the US; I suspect shipping and import charges would make them prohibitively expensive. They may be available on Ebay unless they're made exclusively for LV - after all they're made in China, the proud home of state sponsored intellectual property theft.

Kev

Hi Kev,
That is really neat! Just looked on eBay & Google but can't see anything like it