advice on repairing/repainting windows

[Col]

Hi,
Looking for some advice on preparing my windows for repainting please.

I started looking a one window to see how much work is going to be involved (this is not quite the worst example of 19 windows!)

Where the paintwork deteriorated over the years there's wet rot at various stages:

Problem 1 (wood wet, bit soft but good enough?):
Either the ends of beading or the cill itself.

I hope I can get away with a preservative then primer/undercoat/gloss. Once I've scraped back to the wood, how long will it take to dry out (assuming it doesn't rain)? Are all preservatives the same or is there one you would recommend please?


Problem 2 (rotted away)

Preservative to stop the rot then filler? Is there a recommendation for a particular filler please - it would be very thick in places!

Problem 3 (rotten window beads)

In the second picture the beads are so far gone that they should be replaced, but would you replace or preservative/fill where it is less than 1cm at the end (first picture)?

This is my major job for the summer and I want to get it right so that I can get away with just sanding/painting for the next few years. Thanks for any advice.

Colin

 

[G S Haydon]

Hi Colin,

Although they don't look great there is still plenty of life left in the windows.

1. If the wood is soft allow it to dry as best as you can and apply some clear preservative. This should be adequate for your job http://www.cuprinol.co.uk/products/wood ... _clear_(bp).jsp .Once that has dried apply some http://www.ronseal.co.uk/products/wet-rot-hardener. Once this has dried you are good to go.

2. Where beading has rotted at the ends it would be best to replace the whole length of beading rather than trying to scarf. If you don't have tools to make any take a sample to a local joiner or similar and get some made up, preferably in a more durable timber than Euro Redwood.

3. Similar story with the jamb and cill meeting point, you might be a able to fill but to do a really nice job splice cut back to a shoulder line, rebate edge or cill up stand making sure all the bad stuff is gone. Again if you don't have the equipment to make new sections draw a cross section out and have a joiner make you some section from a durable timber.

Don't over think anything, basic info, chop out the bad to a suitable edge and replace with good.

 

[Col]

Hi Colin,

Although they don't look great there is still plenty of life left in the windows.

1. If the wood is soft allow it to dry as best as you can and apply some clear preservative. This should be adequate for your job http://www.cuprinol.co.uk/products/wood ... _clear_(bp).jsp .Once that has dried apply some http://www.ronseal.co.uk/products/wet-rot-hardener. Once this has dried you are good to go.

2. Where beading has rotted at the ends it would be best to replace the whole length of beading rather than trying to scarf. If you don't have tools to make any take a sample to a local joiner or similar and get some made up, preferably in a more durable timber than Euro Redwood.

3. Similar story with the jamb and cill meeting point, you might be a able to fill but to do a really nice job splice cut back to a shoulder line, rebate edge or cill up stand making sure all the bad stuff is gone. Again if you don't have the equipment to make new sections draw a cross section out and have a joiner make you some section from a durable timber.

Don't over think anything, basic info, chop out the bad to a suitable edge and replace with good.

Thanks for the advice. I'd already started making up some beading - unfortunately in softwood but I hope that if I treat it with preservative it will last a bit longer. I'll have a go at making the sections as well but what's the best method/tool to cut out the bad wood ready for splicing without damaging tools on the brickwork please?

Colin

 

[G S Haydon]

Softwood will be ok for the beads, a bit of preservative will help them on their way. I wish I had an suggestion on not damaging the tools on the brickwork, sadly I don't. being careful and accepting some damage is the way I look at it. That's why I have some sharpish rough chisels for near the bricks and sharp good ones for away from the bricks and nails. A cheap hardpoint tenon saw can also be useful for those splice cuts.
I have used an Fein saw (other brands are available) with some success but I still need to finish off with a chisel.

 

[Col]

Softwood will be ok for the beads, a bit of preservative will help them on their way. I wish I had an suggestion on not damaging the tools on the brickwork, sadly I don't. being careful and accepting some damage is the way I look at it. That's why I have some sharpish rough chisels for near the bricks and sharp good ones for away from the bricks and nails. A cheap hardpoint tenon saw can also be useful for those splice cuts.
I have used an Fein saw (other brands are available) with some success but I still need to finish off with a chisel.

OK , thanks, I can designate some sacrificial tools - I'm sure that after chopping out the first few the rest will be easier and I'll do less damage to the tools! Would you just glue the splice (external PVA?) or add a couple of screws (well sunk and filled) - I can't think how to clamp the joint (unless you spliced horizontally rather than vertically - is that the best way?)

Colin

 

[Dangermouse]

To dry off the wood in this wet weather use either a hair dryer, (slowish ) or a hot air paint striper gun, the hot air gun is best. Then soak it in preserver.

 

[G S Haydon]

Col,

In this case combine screws and glue. Coating all the joint in glue does obviously help bonding but it also seals the grain and the screws keep the joint clamped and mechanically fixed too.

Not really a wrong way to splice in the kind of work you are doing here (more serious repairs are a different beast), and angle cut is best practice as it increases the surface area for fixings and adhesive. This is important on your cill splice but the the other ones are almost patching. If it looks good it is good ;-)

 

[Col]

To dry off the wood in this wet weather use either a hair dryer, (slowish ) or a hot air paint striper gun, the hot air gun is best. Then soak it in preserver.

I had thought about using a hair dryer but was concerned that it would only dry close to the surface but I guess a heat gun would work a lot better - thanks.

 

[Dangermouse]

Forgot to say, be careful of the glass. Use kitchen foil, tapped to the glass, shinny side toward the heat to stop the glass cracking.

 

[Col]

Forgot to say, be careful of the glass. Use kitchen foil, tapped to the glass, shinny side toward the heat to stop the glass cracking.

thanks for the warning (and how to avoid). The wettest bits are in the corners of the cills - so not too close to the glass. Not sure I'd trust myself on the beading though - could be very expensive!