I built my shed from old doors and free timber found in skips ect about 15 years ago and its still standing. Almost all the timber was salvaged (incl the featheredge. Floor was 4x2's on cast concrete padstones with some dpm on the ends. Decided on a green roof and its not leaked (yet). See the photos below
Advice needed please on building a small wood workshop
- Thread starter Joe1975
- Start date
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Molynoox
Established Member
i referenced ali dymok just for the piers
I was pulling your leg
It sounds a reasonable size.
But " represents inches & ' represents feet.
Good luck with the build.
ETA: I see @Jameshow beat me to it.
Jameshow
Established Member
Pretty cool!!
Thanks, thought id show for the original poser really, for insulation we used thin (20mm or there abouts) celotex wedged between battens screwed to the doors (walls) on the inside, and then plasterboard. Had no issues with damp atall. However the floor tends to get a bit damp only when it snows, not sure why this is ? The floor is made up of doors above the joists with floorboards above the doors, its odd as when it snows (and only when the snow has settled) I can see rising damp along the edges of each floor board; its fine in all other weathers.
Jameshow
Established Member
Okay, got it now!16" x 8" is quite small by workshop standards
Thank you, got it now!
This is the plan at the moment. Any comments?
Is it worth putting a vapour barrier (plastic sheet) between the floor joints and the plywood? And run it up the outside of the bottom 4x2.
NB: The weed barrier would go between the blocks (not as shown). Also just noticed I haven’t drawn the OSB extending over the bottom 4x2.
Not sure how to do windows and doors, or flat roof yet.
John Brown
Freeloading Social media influenza
I don't know, but I can tell you that nailing in the joist hangers for the floor was an extremely boring task!
I somehow ordered about three times too many galvanized nails for my joist hangers, the surplus of which you are welcome to if ever passing my way (GL11)
Molynoox
Established Member
Looks good
I would consider 22mm chipboard instead of ply for the floor, this is more common
You could put rodent mesh at interface of base and ground
My only concern with your plan would be your foundations, how much hardcore are you putting under those blocks?
Also I haven't seen your roof design yet, it's easy to get that wrong - I would recommend a similar diagram for that
Martin
Mr Christopher
Established Member
On our build we used Rockwool slabs. After building the frame we wrapped with breathable membrane and fitted the exterior weatherboard. Then in went the insulation before finally finishing the inside with 11mm OSB.
So one thing i did to cut costs is use pallet wood for the interior and exterior cladding. On the inside, just nailed on, for the outside I T&G'ed the wood.
I also lucked out by getting a van full of expanded polysytrene foam insulation from a demolition site, so I only used expensive foil-backed foam for roof and underfloor.
My workshop is 16' by 6'!
I also lucked out by getting a van full of expanded polysytrene foam insulation from a demolition site, so I only used expensive foil-backed foam for roof and underfloor.
My workshop is 16' by 6'!
HamsterJam
Let’s take it apart to see what’s inside….
I’ve just built a 3x4m log cabin to use as a workshop. It is on a concrete slab which I got a local builder to put down for me although it could have gone down on anything resembling a patio as long as it’s flat.
It has 40mm thick walls and double glazed doors/window. I added 50mm PIR between the roof and the felt shingles and same under a chipboard floor on top of a DPM.
Total cost excluding electrics was comfortably within your budget and it is an easy build once the base is down.
This one is fed via a 40A breaker off the main house board but I built similar at our previous house and that was fed from one 13A socket. I use a 1.5kW oil filled radiator on frost setting and have not had a corrosion or condensation issue.
It has 40mm thick walls and double glazed doors/window. I added 50mm PIR between the roof and the felt shingles and same under a chipboard floor on top of a DPM.
Total cost excluding electrics was comfortably within your budget and it is an easy build once the base is down.
This one is fed via a 40A breaker off the main house board but I built similar at our previous house and that was fed from one 13A socket. I use a 1.5kW oil filled radiator on frost setting and have not had a corrosion or condensation issue.
Thank you Martin it’s very reassuring to get someone else’s view, is chipboard as strong and water resistant as plywood?Looks good
I would consider 22mm chipboard instead of ply for the floor, this is more common
You could put rodent mesh at interface of base and ground
My only concern with your plan would be your foundations, how much hardcore are you putting under those blocks?
Also I haven't seen your roof design yet, it's easy to get that wrong - I would recommend a similar diagram for that
Martin
I will draw up another diagram for the roof when I’ve given it more thought.
I would dig down to reasonably hard soil and use 4-6” of hardcore.
Jameshow
Established Member
I'd use plywood dosent urn to Weetabix if it gets damp.
Use 18mm on 400mm joist centres.
John Brown
Freeloading Social media influenza
Why not OSB?
Thank you, there do seem to be water-resistant forms of chipboard, but I am still leaning towards plywood.
I want a decent surface on the floor, but am planning on OSB for walls and ceiling.
