Advice needed on sink plinth

[Digizz]

I'm having a fairly major loft conversion done (lots of technology in there) and am designing and building a sink plinth or countertop. I'm planning on using solid Walnut (American Black Select Grade) to match the timber floor in the main part of the loft.

If you're interested, this is my gallery with pics:

http://www.siliconpixel.com/gallery/main.php/loft/

This is what I've come up with so far:

Thing I need advice on are:

1) what kind of joints would you use in the top surface timber (I guess it'll be 2 or 3 planks joined together for a top)
2) What kind of joints would you use in the side and front skirt (biscuit etc)
3) Any special precautions to take given there will be some water around the area
4) I'd initially thought of 3 thickish timber parts butt joined to form a simple apron and top arrangement. What would you do to achieve a similar (but maybe better) result?
5) What thickness timber would you use - 1"??
6) Any other advice or hint's/tips?

Many thanks,

Paul.

 

[jasonB]

I would have the grain for the top running side to side rather than front to back like you have shown, The joint between the boards can be reinforced with biscuits, these can be cut with a biscuit joiner or a router bit. For the top something like 30-40mm would look good.

I've recently done a couple of oak tops that were joined this way here & here, though a stone top is possibly more practical

The apron would be better if no end grain was showing so mitre joints on the two corners reinforced with biscuits, only possible with a biscuit jointer. This timber could be 18-20mm thick

The whole thing will need either several coats of oil or a good water bourne lacquer such as Dulux Hardglaze.

Nice looking Stark tap :wink:

Jason

 

[Digizz]

Thanks Jason

I modelled the starck in Sketchup from the one sitting here on my desk - expensive but nice

Thanks for the advice - I agree with grain (model not shown correctly) - just need to find a board thick enough in Walnut as it's bloomin expensive (got some prices from Timbmet). Can anyone recommend any other suppliers?

I like your cabinets - very smart.

I did think about mitre joints in the skirt - was worried about the wood moving and the joints opening up - should I be?

Cheers.

 

[jasonB]

If the timber is good and dry then the joints should not open up.

An idea of where you are located would help with suitable sources for timber, possibly add it to your profile.

Jason

 

[Digizz]

Added to profile - Oxfordshire (between Swindon and Oxford).

Thanks.

 

[Digizz]

I've now got some gorgeous 1 1/2" solid walnut - very good stuff

I'm wondering whether to actually go for biscuited mitres all the way around (including top to sides/edges) - my thoughts are that it may then look too false (i.e. the veneered MDF look) and not play on the thick slab of solid timber, even though there will be end grain on show.

Any ideas on preference for that?

If I went for the idea shown above, would you join the top to the edges with a flush fit, or maybe slightly round over or very slight mitre the edge where it sits underneath the counter top to give a more definate separation between the different elements? (if that makes sense?)

 

[jasonB]

I would not do fully mitred construction because it does not allow for wood expansion, the top will be trying to move front to back and be restricted by the side rails.

Mitre the two joints on the apron and reinforce with biscuits, try to cut it all from one length so the grain follows around the three edges. Make the top as a solid slab and fix to the apron with expansion plates from underneath.

One option would be to have the top the same overall size as the apron, no overhang but route a small 2mmx2mm rebate into the top of the apron to give a shaddow gap.

Jason

 

[Digizz]

Thanks - that makes sense.

I totally forgot about expansion when I was thinking about it! Too used to working with veneered MDF!!!

The timber I have is kiln dried 1 1/2" stock. It's been sitting inside near the eventual location for a week now. How long would you normally give it to acclimatise and what's the minimum time you could get away with - or is it all dependent on original moisture content?

Thanks,

Paul.

 

[jasonB]

All depends on what the MC was to start with, if you don't have a moisture meter you could measure the width with digital callipers over a few days to see if there is any movement.

Make sure you have got the planks spaced with sticks to allow even air flow around the boards.

Are they sawn or prepared?

Jason

 

[Digizz]

They're sawn but I've cross cut them to rough length already so I can store them. I guess I'll be losing about 3-5mm thickness when run through the thicknesser. They're pretty straight and solid.