Adhesive advice sought

[busy builder]

I'm looking for advice on which adhesive is best for oak, ash, or beech that won't stain or leave dark lines at the glue line. I have looked on the Titebond web site but it doesn't help. I also tried a search on this site but after trawling through numerous posts I came up no wiser.

Thanks in advance.

 

[MikeG.]

Personally I use polyurethane glue if I really need to avoid leaving anything on an unfinished surface. It scrapes off nicely when dry and doesn't effect the finish. However, it does have its downsides........and don't get it on your skin! Much better is to get a coat of your finish on before you glue up, or even a sanding sealer.

One of the Titebonds leaves a dark glue-line.......can't remember if it is 2 or 3........so is fine with oak, but not with ash.

Mike

 

[Chris Knight]

Titebond 3 leaves a dark glue line, the others are fine. I use PVA glues for most of my woodworking and am generally a fan of Titebond. It has worked well for me for years and their technical department has answered a few past questions of mine promptly and fully.

 

[matt]

I've used Titebond 2 for all three of the above woods and was never aware of a glue line.

 

[woodbloke]

TBIII does leave a dark glue line, so it's not really suitable for lighter timbers...I'd use TBII which is an ordinary PVA and dries clear - Rob

 

[OPJ]

I've never had a problem with bog-standard PVA. Whichever glue you use, it is important that it goes off at the right temperature. If it's tool cold then, it won't dry clear and my not cure or bond properly. If you're workshop's not warm and insulated, do the glue up out there, wipe off the excess and get it indoors ASAP - if possible, of course.

I've used the Dark Wood Glue on some walnut (which is essentially Titebond II, just darker) and was fine. You can take the clamps off after half-an-hour, provided you don't 'stress' any of the joints for the next twenty-four hours! :wink:

That's the only factor I'm aware of which separates two of the Titebond glues (no. I and II) from ordinary PVA; they require far less time in the cramps. Titebond III, like others in their wide range, is different again and is best-suited to certain purposes and situations.

 

[gidon]

Whichever glue you use, it is important that it goes off at the right temperature. If it's tool cold then, it won't dry clear and my not cure or bond properly. If you're workshop's not warm and insulated, do the glue up out there, wipe off the excess and get it indoors ASAP - if possible, of course.

Two reasons I like to use Titebond III if I can are:

• *Can be used in lower temperatures (8C vs 10C and 12C for Orig and II respectively). IMO easier to leave a fan heater on in your workshop while the glue sets if your workshop isn't warm enough.
  *And twice as long open time as Orig and II too.

I find the Titebond glues have very good grab compared to standard white PVA.

Cheers

Gidon

 

[jimi43]

Personally I use polyurethane glue if I really need to avoid leaving anything on an unfinished surface. It scrapes off nicely when dry and doesn't effect the finish. However, it does have its downsides........and don't get it on your skin! Much better is to get a coat of your finish on before you glue up, or even a sanding sealer.

One of the Titebonds leaves a dark glue-line.......can't remember if it is 2 or 3........so is fine with oak, but not with ash.

Mike

Mike... I am glad you raised this here as I was going to post a thread about Polyurethane TITEBOND....

I bought some at Axminster for two reasons...one it was made by TITEBOND and they are the DBs....and two the bottle looked pretty!

:roll:

I tried it on oak the other day and it just foamed up like that HORRIBLE GORILLA glue....it then foamed up (ditto above) and did not stick properly at ALL.

I followed the instructions exactly...I did it inside not in my freezing workshop..I just don't know what went wrong.

Before I chuck the whole bottle in the bin alongside the Gorilla glue....HELP!!!

Jim

 

[Ross K]

Jim, I use the Titebond PU glue for all sorts of stuff, indoor and outdoor furniture, oak, ash, elm, beech, sycamore, in various temps and humidities and have not had a problem. It does like to be firmly clamped but apart from that it's a pretty robust product. I like it because it has a relatively long open time, is easy to remove excess and tends not to stain.

I wonder if you got a faulty batch? Whate were your clamping arrangements? What timber were you gluing? It may not work so well with oily timbers perhaps?

 

[MikeG.]

I think Ross has asked the right questions, Jim. I would just add that if you allow it to foam you won't get it to work properly. The foaming process should only happen within the clamped joint. One little tip is to just slightly moisten the wood prior to gluing. Don't chuck that bottle out!!

I too use the Titebond PU, for the same reason as Ross......longer open time.

Mike

 

[chipchaser]

Hi Busy Builder,

I haven’t used Titebond so cannot comment but have used Bondloc D3 PVA and the 5 and 30 minute PU glues, all from Toolstation, successfully. My experience is that PVA gives a stronger bond on softwoods. PVA dries clear and excess can be removed with a damp cloth. The Bondloc bottle claims rapid setting but I wasn’t able to get a definitive time. To be fair I rang on the day when the tech reps were at a show and didn’t bother to enquire again. I leave the joint clamped overnight. Pinkgrip D4 PVA claims 10 minutes initial set but I haven’t tried that one myself.

PU is useful for glueing almost anything to wood and being waterproof and expanding I find particularly useful for external jobs. It doesn’t gap fill in the way that resin (epoxy, polyester etc) glues do as the expanded material is not as resistant to physical damage but it fills gaps sufficient to exclude water.

The toolstation PU is described as brown but I would say it is more of a light yellow brown so may not be too obvious as a glue line in hardwood. The 5 minute PU is also available in white. If your wood is dry slightly dampen one surface with a clean moist cloth or sponge, don’t make it wet, apply glue to the other face and clamp up immediately.

Sorry that this isn’t a direct answer to your question but hope it helps.

Regards

Graham

 

[jimi43]

Hi Ross, Mike

Thanks guys...I think that might be my fault then.

I clamped it for about an hour joining one piece of oak to some engineered oak flooring...to make a bat box for my mother (don't ask).

Usually this is enough clamping time for Original Titebond but I guess it isn't for PU for the reasons you say (longer open time). I guess it didn't cure and then foamed open the joint.

I did moisten both surfaces though as per the instructions.

I will give it another go with some test pieces and clamp it for longer to get a better feel for the stuff....I think it is just my ignorance.

Cheers for your help and I promise not to bin it (yet!)

Jim