A couple of questions re QS planes.

[carlb40]

As some of you know i have treated myself to a couple of QS planes for work. So first up are all the bench plane handles the same size ish? ie made for a 4yo :mrgreen:

2nd I will be replacing the handles on the No 62 when i have found the right timber for it and the soon to be No7 . However is it easy enough to renew the front knob? I'm just wondering as when i was reading up on the Stanley sweetheart 62 someone had removed the knob and when re assembled the mouth wouldn't work properly again.

TIA (hammer)

 

[AndyT]

I do agree about the size of the rear handle on the low angle jack. I might get round to changing it but meanwhile it's definitely one for a three finger grip, not four.

I can't see a problem with the front knob but if you did decide to swap it you could easily remove the metal fittings which are what control the mouth adjustment and re-use them.

 

[Richard T]

re new front knob and mouth not working - if it is anything like the Veritas, the length of threaded rod needs to be exactly right; ie. the same length as the original. To be on the safe side, I should think that gluing (Araldite) with the square end of the rod tight up against the end of the hole inside the knob would be a good idea before cutting to the right length.

It's not something that I have done with mine - just drilled the 'tap' hole a few thou tight and not used a tap ... just cut the thread with the rod but those of mine don't need to be so precise as to tighten anything up except themselves.

Edited to say: I think it's probably just me but I like to make back handles from wood that has grain that runs in an 'S' pattern.
Usually found in large crotch sections (if you'll pardon the expression). I have some likely lumps of Sycamore or Walnut if you're feeling posh that you are welcome to have the relevant bits of if you like.

 

[carlb40]

I do agree about the size of the rear handle on the low angle jack. I might get round to changing it but meanwhile it's definitely one for a three finger grip, not four.

I can't see a problem with the front knob but if you did decide to swap it you could easily remove the metal fittings which are what control the mouth adjustment and re-use them.

With my hands it's more the top rear digs in slightly between my thumb/ forefinger.

All i intend to do is make direct replacements - same size on the front knob and larger rear one more like the size i made for my 4 1/2.

 

[carlb40]

re new front knob and mouth not working - if it is anything like the Veritas, the length of threaded rod needs to be exactly right; ie. the same length as the original. To be on the safe side, I should think that gluing (Araldite) with the square end of the rod tight up against the end of the hole inside the knob would be a good idea before cutting to the right length.

It's not something that I have done with mine - just drilled the 'tap' hole a few thou tight and not used a tap ... just cut the thread with the rod but those of mine don't need to be so precise as to tighten anything up except themselves.

Edited to say: I think it's probably just me but I like to make back handles from wood that has grain that runs in an 'S' pattern.
Usually found in large crotch sections (if you'll pardon the expression). I have some likely lumps of Sycamore or Walnut if you're feeling posh that you are welcome to have the relevant bits of if you like.

Thank you Richard, i wasn't intending to alter anything bar the increase in size of the rear handle. All the front would stay the same - except in matching timber for the rear handle.

Oooh the timber sounds nice, especially the sycamore. I doubt it would be too posh after using curly maple on my 4 1/2. That is also what i'm hoping to use on the 62 and the No 7 i hope to get soon. Except with the No7 I want to change the front knob to a low version ala the stanley's.

 

[carlb40]

Well i thought i would update this thread a little. I went to have a little play with the 62 today and the mouth was stuck solid. :shock: So after undoing the knob and and then the threaded rod. I removed the adjuster and the bottom adjustable plate. Then cleaned off that horrible gunk QS slap everywhere, that was on the inside of the mouth. :roll: I then used some of the macine wax and reassembled it and the mouth works as normal.

So not sure what Stanley have adjustment wise to make it hard to work after dismantling.