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#6 or #7 how do youy flatten tops?

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Anonymous

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Does anyone have a spare #6 or #7 they wish to rid themselves of?

No?

Well, my second question is which bench plane do members use to flatten workbenches, table tops etc?

Cheers

Tony

PS If you have th eplane then please pm me.
 

Adam

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Too late for me I'm afraid, I just gave my spare #7 with Ray Illes blade to the carpenter at work. He lets me use all the work equipment, their storage, and borrow tools at will, and I knew he'd wanted one for ages, so it made a great thankyou gift.

Adam
 

Alf

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asleitch":cuublnr8 said:
TooI just gave my spare #7 with Ray Illes blade to the carpenter at work
Cor. :shock: I'm a stinker - I'd have replaced the old blade first... :oops:

Well I have an unpleasant, modern, plastic handled #6 I'd simply love to get rid of, Tony, but I simply couldn't look you in the email if I did. :( Although you already know, just for the record, a #7 is my choice.

Cheers, Alf
 

Adam

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Alf":ng4p4z2q said:
Cor. :shock: I'm a stinker - I'd have replaced the old blade first... :oops:
Well, it was redundent due to replacing with a LN, so the blade was, kind of redundent. Besides, it made a nice gift, and the recipient knew the value of it, so the gift was gratefully accepted. I was actually quite pleased to clear the space in the workshop! :shock:

Adam
 

Bean

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Tony I tend to use a 5, mainly as I dont have a 6 or 7. You are welcome to borrow it if you wish.


Bill
 

Midnight

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Weapon of choice is my L-N #7...

I've a spare Stanley #7 ripe for upgrading; plastic handles, stock blade and chip breaker...
 

Chris Knight

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Depending how rough it is to start, I usually begin with a coarse set light plane if bad, moving to a longer 5 or 7 as I progress.

These days, I manage to get my glue-ups pretty good to start with and after scraping the glue lines go to a 7, finishing with a 5 1/2 set up as a large smoother.
 
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