Good day
My name is niki, I live in Poland (after Israel and Japan) and I am an amateur.
I would like to share with you a different way (as far as I know), of cutting 45* frames.
Instead of messing with angles and protractors, I’m using a big, dedicated triangle.
The cutting method is “Left” and “Right” to overcome deviations from 45* and 90* (if any).
One important point.
I’m cutting the frame members to “final dimensions”, before cutting the 45*.
As you will see in the pictures, the triangle vertex is positioned at the center of the kerf, which means that, every cut will shorten the member by ½ a kerf width and, because we are cutting each member from both sides, each member will be shortened by 1 kerf width.
If you are using a 3 mm kerf blade, add 3mm to the “final dimensions” to get your planed dimensions after cutting.
The rest of the story, is on the pictures.
Regards
niki
My name is niki, I live in Poland (after Israel and Japan) and I am an amateur.
I would like to share with you a different way (as far as I know), of cutting 45* frames.
Instead of messing with angles and protractors, I’m using a big, dedicated triangle.
The cutting method is “Left” and “Right” to overcome deviations from 45* and 90* (if any).
One important point.
I’m cutting the frame members to “final dimensions”, before cutting the 45*.
As you will see in the pictures, the triangle vertex is positioned at the center of the kerf, which means that, every cut will shorten the member by ½ a kerf width and, because we are cutting each member from both sides, each member will be shortened by 1 kerf width.
If you are using a 3 mm kerf blade, add 3mm to the “final dimensions” to get your planed dimensions after cutting.
The rest of the story, is on the pictures.
Regards
niki
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