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Hi there I have been searching for sources of information on the construction of Versailles flooring panels but am not having much luck and wondered if the 'hive' mind here might be able to help? Ideally I'd like to find a classic old fashioned book referring to the construction and layout but...

Hey guys After a bit of advice if I may..... I'm close to buying a 4 sided planer/moulder. I have a good deal on a SCM Compact XL with Tersa blocks and was pretty set on it until I got offered a used Logosol PH360 by one of my clients in Germany. Does anyone have one or has used one? They...

Some fitted cabinets we constructed for a newly built extension. These were built using solid 'Pippy' English Oak. A stunning timber but sometimes troublesome to work with due to the swirly grain and....well....the pip. Framed and panelled doors with scribed beading hung on blacked butt...

Or use plastic/waste drainage pipe......... It's loads cheaper, easy to fit and easy to find all the elbows, joints and bits you need. Also a choice of colours :)

Get some new hinges with a different screw hole pattern?

As a start I would suggest checking the squareness of both the mortices or tenons. Just a slight bit out can throw the whole frame into twist........ Also are they dead flat when your clamping up? Always clamp up on a dead flat surface to make sure, it's easy enough to get a twist in clamping...

Thats the 'Green' Price?? Minimum order wise you'd want 4 or 5 cube to make it viable with transport costs but of course it depends how much of a discount on UK prices you want. For example I can get 2 cubic metres of prime air dried Slavonian Oak delivered to your door for around £1200 and of...

France and Poland are big suppliers at the moment but as stated above the French supply is either drying up a little or they have realised they were too cheap as the import price is rising. The quality of the French timber was great, very similar to homegrown Oak, plenty of character and pip...

What is the cost comparison between Oak and Larch per cubic metre? I get green Oak beans sawn out here for around £250 a cubic metre, Larch is not much cheaper, but then Oak is plentiful around here. Both great timbers though and perform in very similar ways in the short term. All down to...

Nice job, really like that :) I sell tons of reclaimed timber like that, very popular right now. Guys are making whole kitchens out of it, rustic and modern furniture, allsorts. A lot to be said for the beauty that only comes with age. Anyway you could fill the knot with epoxy if you wanted a...

Any window will do, doesn't have to be one in your workshop :) In fact it doesn't even need to be a window..... That aside, check them now, no good going back to your saw doctor in 3 weeks. Can't see it being the planer tables but you never know.

Personally I would never use nails..... If the fixing is not spot on it can easily pull out, thye can crumble the bricks behind and it always seems as your hammering in a nail one end of the board it will put the one on the other end out. Pain in the a**e. Plus you still have to fill the holes...

As above, sapwood should not really be used at all, especially for exterior work. It is much softer than the heartwood and prone to decay and insect attack. Sapwood in Oak is not usually a very large percentage of the usable timber compared to the heartwood..... unless you got some of the edge...

I wouldn't pay more than £25 a cube for decent Beech from a sawmill in the UK (I buy beech over here for about £9 a cube). That would be rough sawn and waney edged so I would think around £30 - 40 for timber machined to your dimensions but as mentioned above 4.8 metres is a pretty long length...

If you are willing to spend the money then have a look at Leitz, Leuco or Stehle blades. Much better than Freud or CMT but you do pay for the extra quality.

You could try David at Kilby timber..... has some cracking stuff in and a good guy to deal with www.kilbytimber.co.uk

I would try to get it down to a rough even thickness first so that you are reducing the amount of timber you want to dry and thus the time involved. Also this will allow it to dry more evenly. Drying without defects is a bit of a minefield. Warm is good but too warm and moisture will be drawn...

I purchased one when I forgot my sander and was too far from the workshop to pop back Did the job well and for the money can't be faulted. I did kill it not long after as it became the 'rough' sander and could not stand up to a window renovation project. I burnt the motor out after about 4...

Iroko would be a good choice. Known as poor mans teak, it's fairly oily and very resistant to weathering and decay. Available from most big timber suppliers...... Just be careful when machining it, the dust is nasty so wear a suitable mask. Other than that Oak would be good if well preserved......

Here you chap...... http://www.ecfibreglasssupplies.co.uk/c ... gging.aspx