Old Oak

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SteveF

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Had these scraps of oak laying around
box1.jpg

Mummy has been asking for a box to carry artist brushes

so i set to work

there is something about working with rough timbers
there are so many shakes , but guess they have been there a while so hope they not get worse
a few holes too, but no worms to be seen :)
well i got the box made
box2.jpg

just needs finishing and some hinges \ catches

Steve
 

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I like that. Really captures the character of reclaimed timber.
 
Nice job, really like that :)

I sell tons of reclaimed timber like that, very popular right now. Guys are making whole kitchens out of it, rustic and modern furniture, allsorts. A lot to be said for the beauty that only comes with age.

Anyway you could fill the knot with epoxy if you wanted a smooth finish. What might be better is using hardwax. You can get these in a wide variety of timber colours and they can be blended to get an exact match. Easy to melt them in with a soldering iron then smooth of with a blade. They sand well and take most finishes to.

http://www.wurth.co.uk/technical-chemic ... e-ral-9010
 
SteveF":odn1hjzg said:
Baldhead":odn1hjzg said:
Very nice Steve, did you fill the knot with epoxy?

Baldhead

epoxy ?

should i ?
how ?

Steve
You don't need to fill the knot, I asked because I am at present making a box as a wedding present, the lid has a very small knot which I have filled with epoxy, it's the first time I've done this, I was hoping if you had done the same you could tell me if it turned out ok.

Baldhead
 
the knot is about 2mm deep
i left is as-is
the underside has no signs of the knot strangely as the lid is only 8mm

Steve
 
I think it depends on the piece. On a reclaimed piece such as this, I wouldn't fill. On something that I wanted a very smooth finish then I probably would. Both filling and not filling can work well and look good though, particularly when people are able/have the balls to make a feature of it with metals, butterflies or crushed stone features.
 
i think i like it with the gap
it is only for paint brushes
just need to find some hinges and a catch
guess i wont find the fittings in a diy shop

Steve

i would be interested in how to fill a knot for future reference though please
 
Steve.

Very nice box. Must measure my longest brushes!

If you ever do need to fill shakes like that one, use a flexible epoxy, so it can cope with seasonal shrinkage or swelling of the timber. Mix in some powdered pigment (artists supplies stores) when you mix the epoxy. Don't over fill too much, as you will only have to cut it back to the level of the surface.

You could always melt an old silver ring, and fill with that! :mrgreen:

HTH

John
 
Benchwayze":312x3pzv said:
Steve.

Very nice box. Must measure my longest brushes!

internal is 14" so should take most brushes

If you ever do need to fill shakes like that one, use a flexible epoxy, so it can cope with seasonal shrinkage or swelling of the timber. Mix in some powdered pigment (artists supplies stores) when you mix the epoxy. Don't over fill too much, as you will only have to cut it back to the level of the surface.

You could always melt an old silver ring, and fill with that! :mrgreen:

sounds cool but a bit OTT for this job :)

HTH

John
 
For hinges I've seen an old box with 2 simple 90deg triangle bits of brass with one point used as the pivot point with a small screw and washer.

Simple and effective.
 
Very nice.

I used Epoxy and ground instant coffee to fill pippy oak knots, use the cheap Wilcos and araldite goes off as you are mixing it with coffee in.

Pete
 
some good advice and greatly appreciated

I will leave this one but will have a practice on some old scraps

I am sure it will be a useful lesson


Steve
 

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