Should I make solid interoak doors or laminated "engineered"

[glynster]

I'm about to make a bunch of doors, we bought a 17th century house in bad repair and the large modern extension is full of crappy 1970s hollow hardboard doors that I want to replace. I plan on making the doors because the house is special and deserves a custom touch, having never made entry doors before (though I have made many cabinet doors) I am unsure about whether I should make the rail and stiles from solid kiln dried oak (approx 45mm - I would plane down some 65mm stock I have) or whether I should engineer the stock by laminating pieces together and thick veneering them? I understand the engineered doors would be far more stable but then they would be a lot more labour - how stable is Euro oak in solid single lengths? I was going to cope and stick them and then tenon them using my Domino XL so there should be plenty of construction bond once glued up.

Any experience or tips would be appreciated

EDIT: should add that I plan on making panel doors with flat solid panels. Probably 2 panels per door. I have a design in mind that I saw in a church vestry where the panels were diagonal beaded

 

[RobinBHM]

I wouldnt bother sttempting to make engineered stiles and rails, if you want to go down that route its best to buy them in.

http://www.timbmet.com/uk/products/rang ... air-parts/

Engineered is more stable. It is generally made from prime stock, clean, straight grain mostly knot free, which means its great for contemporary style doors, less good for a more traditional style rustic look.

I wouldnt worry too much about stability as long as you are careful with the selection, aclimatising and construction.

Im my experience, whilst a board with a bow or kink in its length may be able to be flattened if the boards thick enough, it is a bit likely to move again. A nice flat board with straight mild grain is the most likely to stay flat.

 

[meccarroll]

I wouldnt bother sttempting to make engineered stiles and rails, if you want to go down that route its best to buy them in.

http://www.timbmet.com/uk/products/rang ... air-parts/

Engineered is more stable. It is generally made from prime stock, clean, straight grain mostly knot free, which means its great for contemporary style doors, less good for a more traditional style rustic look.

I wouldnt worry too much about stability as long as you are careful with the selection, aclimatising and construction.

Im my experience, whilst a board with a bow or kink in its length may be able to be flattened if the boards thick enough, it is a bit likely to move again. A nice flat board with straight mild grain is the most likely to stay flat.

The above is sound advice.

The moisture content of the wood is quite important because if it's not near to the final state (% moisture content required) then the door will move (change shape, put stress on the joints) once hung. I like to saw wood to the approximate size then plane one side and one edge and leave to stand for about three days to see if there is any movement. I can test movement against the planed edges and if movement is slight I fully machine but if it seems unacceptable I don't use that piece in the construction.

Mark

 

[meccarroll]

I wouldnt bother sttempting to make engineered stiles and rails, if you want to go down that route its best to buy them in.

http://www.timbmet.com/uk/products/rang ... air-parts/

Engineered is more stable. It is generally made from prime stock, clean, straight grain mostly knot free, which means its great for contemporary style doors, less good for a more traditional style rustic look.

I wouldnt worry too much about stability as long as you are careful with the selection, aclimatising and construction.

Im my experience, whilst a board with a bow or kink in its length may be able to be flattened if the boards thick enough, it is a bit likely to move again. A nice flat board with straight mild grain is the most likely to stay flat.

The above is sound advice.

The moisture content of the wood is quite important because if it's not near to the final state (% moisture content required) then the door will move (change shape, put stress on the joints) once hung. I like to saw wood to the approximate size then plane one side and one edge and leave to stand for about three days to see if there is any movement. I can test movement against the planed edges and if movement is slight I fully machine but if it seems unacceptable I don't use that piece in the construction.

Mark

 

[ComfortablyNumb]

Let the oak stabilise in the rooms it will be used for as long as possible. I used Brooks Bros engineered Oak to make an exterior front door and frame. It was lovely stuff to use as it planed up and kept square but it's still shrinking 18 months on after having 2 coats of Sadolin Classic and 2 top coats of Supadec.