WIP - “Engineers” Tool box

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SVB

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I’ve long wanted somewhere to store all the small tools we all have that really deserve better than being dumped in a drawer to rattle around. I’ve looked on ebay at engineer’s tool boxes as something that would be ideal but even average ones command top dollar so I’ve decided to make one myself (and therefore can have exactly what I want).

I’ve skipped the cutting boards to size bit but this is the progress so far:

Rough design (mainly faithful to this so far!)

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So this is the carcas with a coat of oil. Oak main body with wenge inlay.

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And this is the progress so far on the drawers: (will be bass wood frame, wenge fronts and thinking about 2mm box inlay across all drawers 2” inside from frame to join it all together.

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Not sure yet how to finish off the drawers inside. Green felt seems traditional but not sure I like that. Thinking 1mm cork sheet at the moment - any better ideas?

Comment / critique / suggestions all very much welcome.

Simon
 

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Lovely.

But I wouldn't let anything like that anywhere near my workshop. It would be in the house. How are you going to deal with the outside pair of drawers being between cheeks which aren't co-planar at the front edge?
 
MikeG.":lrqgri5e said:
Lovely.

How are you going to deal with the outside pair of drawers being between cheeks which aren't co-planar at the front edge?

Wenge fronts to drawers will sit proud of these and cover them, half by each drawer so they will not be seen when all drawers are closed to give a ‘clean’ / dark look to the front.

(Cabinet makers on here no doubt head in hands at some of this - my design so probably broken 100 good practice / accepted wisdoms already but that’s how you learn I guess. Please feel free to point out any obvious boo-boos!)

S
 
Wowsers! =D>
I have a bit of a weird thing for engineers tool cabinets, old architects plan drawers, basically any cabinet with loads of tiny drawers, tool chests that are brilliantly engineered so everything folds seamlessly with a place for each specific tool... no idea why and its not really up there with some perversions (so I'm told =; ) so I shouldn't worry too much but that's one posh toolbox!
Some people will say why so fancy? Well leave your tools in a shoebox if you like, that's fine too but I'm looking forward to this build. :D
Re: The lining, in for a penny in for a pound! how-to-line-boxes-drawers-t106375.html
Stickyback cork is easy to source too lol.
Cheers
Chris
 
Excellent stuff, I've got a couple of nislein engineers boxes, they're lovely things. Occasionally come complete with lots of useful bits of HSS, taps and other useful stuff. And lots of broken springs, ball bearings and other "broken but might be handy one day" bits. I hope you have a space earmarked for these bits!
 
I've made a couple of pieces in oak with wenge inlay. I think they go very well together.

Looking forward to seeing more.
 
TFrench":2g3945uc said:
Excellent stuff, I've got a couple of nislein engineers boxes, they're lovely things. Occasionally come complete with lots of useful bits of HSS, taps and other useful stuff. And lots of broken springs, ball bearings and other "broken but might be handy one day" bits. I hope you have a space earmarked for these bits!

Nature abhors a vacuum!
 
So, drawer construction has started.

Think others on here would despair as I’m essentially making one, measuring for next (which is couple of mm out from drawing) and then custom making the next one to fit. Taking a while and certainly not a commercial speed to say the least but having fun doing it!

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.......btw. I was surprised how dark the wenge inlay went when I put the finish one it (Chestnus lemon oil).

Think I may leave the draws natural as they look good with just a sanded surface (320), feel nice to the touch and the grain looks good. The test piece I did just went black really and lost the grain definition. Is it just what wenge does or are they other finishes I should consider that would avoid this darkening?

S
 
MikeG.":3bhvtqr5 said:
I thought that dark appearance was the whole point of using wenge.

To a point but in the extreme it can just look matt black which is a bit of a waste as it has more to offer I think.
 
SVB":3jf1jvgq said:
MikeG.":3jf1jvgq said:
I thought that dark appearance was the whole point of using wenge.

To a point but in the extreme it can just look matt black which is a bit of a waste as it has more to offer I think.

A sample photo - lemon oil / finishing oil / sanding sealer and plain.

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Simon
 

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Done the three full width drawers:

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On to the smaller drawers at the top. Beginning to get a bit of a rhythm now!

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‘til next time.

Simon
 

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Nice job. I like the idea of an engineers tool chest for my hand tools and always liked the North Bennet Street tool chests. Using a metal roll cabinet for work means I am used to that sort of design for tool storage.
 
Been a while but finally all done.

Comments welcome. English oak frame, indigbo drawer carcasses / wenge fronts. Wenge inlay / boxwood stringing.

Finished with chestnut lemon oil / overcoated wax on outside so dust blows off nicely!

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SVB":2h71u8k7 said:
Been a while but finally all done.

Comments welcome. English oak frame, indigbo drawer carcasses / wenge fronts. Wenge inlay / boxwood stringing.

Finished with chestnut lemon oil / overcoated wax on outside so dust blows off nicely!

View attachment 2949

Wonderful. Love the balance between the stringing and the inlay, and a nice contrast between them also. I've been admiring the pics for the last ten minutes or so, I think that's all that needs saying really =D> =D> =D>
 
That really looks the business!
May I ask how you went about cutting the grooves for the boxwood inlay on the drawer fronts and getting it nicely lined up across the separate pieces? And how is the back panel constructed?
 
AndyT":1fbd8beu said:
That really looks the business!
May I ask how you went about cutting the grooves for the boxwood inlay on the drawer fronts

When all drawers made and installed (without knobs) I used scraps of veneer to wedge them solid then used my Katsu trimmer router (with edge fence fitted and with a 2mm carbide engineering slot cutter) to reference off the side of the chest and routed two grooves. I did one side, then without adjusting fence did the other side so exactly the same setting before adjusting to do the inner groove. I had thought about doing 3 grooves (odd numbers ‘n all that) but thought it would look too much in the end.

AndyT":1fbd8beu said:
......... And how is the back panel constructed?

Back panel is oak veneered MDF (10mm iirc) set into rebate in back of oak frame and then pinned in place with panel pins. Upper internal drawer dividers are also screwed through back panel to hold them true.

Hope that helps, thanks for your comments.

Simon
 
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