Are Mortise locks (5 lever) a standard size?

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bugbear

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My front door lock is getting increasingly temperamental. My local
locksmith wants £25 to re-key it.

I note that I can buy a new premium lock (Chubb/Union/Yale) for less than that!

But - is the plate size, body size, screw positions and bolt position/size standardised?

In other words, would a new lock be interchangeable with the old one?

More narrowly, is interchangeability common within a single brand - the current lock
is Chubb ?

BugBear
 
Nope, i wish they were. The amount of times i have fitted new lock cases and been either too small - had to patch the door/frame. Or better if slightly bigger so you can chop out and cover the old one up.

You might be better off taking the old lock with you ( if poss) and comparing sizes of the front plate. :)
 
Pooh. Googling shows that Union/Yale make some models just because the old Chubb's were different sizes.

BugBear
 
bugbear":7p7hxj5y said:
.....
In other words, would a new lock be interchangeable with the old one?....
Yes if it's the same size. You just have to shop around.
 
It is a long time since I specified lock cases, but do check on the backset is the same. The backset (not telling my granny I hope) is the distance from case front plate to centre of handle spindle and / or key hole. Best to go to a trade merchants ie builders ironmongers who deal in locks and door furniture. 2 1/2 and 3 are what used toeeb called vertical locks. Hope this helps, but take the case out and you can put it back temporarily. Depends on the age but cases were often used for latch, dead lock, lock, etc, so could be empty or full. Best wishes.
 
It appears that whilst products didn't vary much, this is due to conservatism and British manufacturers using the same factory machinery for decades, as is their wont.

But there was no actual standardisation.

To find a matching lock, I'll need patience and luck. I suspect the fitted lock is the age of the house, which is 1950's.

BugBear
 
I would take it out strip it and give a clean and lube first.

Pete
 
Racers":mhaqa1g5 said:
I would take it out strip it and give a clean and lube first.

Pete

+1

Grandmother/Eggs and all that but:

- check the lock plays up when the doors open also e.g. it's not that the door has dropped slightly and the latch is catching on the striking plate (as happened to one of mine recently).

- worn key? just replace the cylinder and keep the lock body (cheaper than replacing whole lock).
 
Mike.S":1wqm8fr0 said:
MMUK":1wqm8fr0 said:
Mike.S":1wqm8fr0 said:
Ok, it's a deadlock, so forget my comment about replacing the cylinder.


That would only work if it had a Euro Cylinder anyway :mrgreen:

Not so - you can replace traditional cylinders e.g.
see this


That's a rim lock, not a mortise lock :wink:
 
459.gif


:D

BugBear
 
I used to replace allot of doors when i subbed to a window company and as i am a bit of a magpie i kept lots of locks . If you could take a good photo of the lock and give me the critical sizes i will have a look to see if i have a replacement for you.

Cheers Bern.
 
Berncarpenter":2udqxiph said:
I used to replace allot of doors when i subbed to a window company and as i am a bit of a magpie i kept lots of locks . If you could take a good photo of the lock and give me the critical sizes i will have a look to see if i have a replacement for you.

Cheers Bern.


I was the same. When my company went under I squirrelled away so much hardware it filled a LWB Sprinter. It was great for a few years replacing obsolete Maco, Yale, Saracen, etc. stuff but I ended up weighing most of it in a few years ago, I just couldn't store it all any longer.
 

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