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cheers OLD, I hadn't thought about composite materials, Will deffinately look into it.
 
Dave R":3bpq0nha said:
I think I would change the rafter joint up at the top of the high wall. As it is now, it looks like a split waiting to happen.

That was precisely my thoughts when I looked at the shketches.

MarkW":3bpq0nha said:
1. I would definitely bolt the wall plate to the side of the house and use joist hangers. I have used this method a few times now on similar projects and they're all still standing. It will add considerably to the stability to have the whole thing attached firmly to the house.

The ridge board (not wall plate) definately needs to be fixed sound to the wall to stop the wind ripping the shed off and/or distorting the structure and causing leak failures in the roof etc. I wouldnt cut little notches especially at the top end of the rafters, you reduce the strenght consuiderably. Also rafters should always go vertical not horizontal. I'd cut a simple plumb cut for the top of the rafter and a birdsmouthed plumb/seat at the wall plate end of the rafter, leaves overhang to get water away from the walls. And I wouldnt use joist hangers to fasten the rafter tops. They are to hang joists. I'd simply rawl bolt (or even use frame fixings) a ridge board to the wall and spike the rafter tops to it with gunbo nails. I just made a similar structure, very similar but not as big. The common rafters were only about 3x1 yet fixed as I described I could safely stand on one rafter. The wall plate was only 2x2 and wall studs 2x2 clad up with recycled 5/8 " shiplap boards. Hope this helps, hope it turns out all right!
Cheers Mr Spanton
 
If its not too late. I've just been in my local Travis Perkins, and they're advertising a new, self adhesive, roofing felt system :shock:

It is called Safe-Seal, made by Anderson Monarflex (Icopal), and they claim a minimum 20 year life expectancy. 'Fraid I don't know any more than that though.
 
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